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levelhead86

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Posts posted by levelhead86

  2. Transtint And Two-part Urethane

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    Why don't you get the StewMac color tone stain? I used it on my bike helmet with 2K poly and I had no issues with it.

    The makeup of StewMac's stain is different? This I wouldn't have assumed, since they're so similar.

    The only thing different, are the labels stuck on the outside of the bottle and StewMac gives some colors a different name.

    Hmm... very interesting indeed.

    Also, a quote from the joewoodworker.com page on TransTint:

    Known Incompatibilties

    TransTints are incompatible* when added to the following products:

    Waterlox oil based finishes

    Watco Danish Oil, Minwax Wipe on Poly, Minwax Antique Oil, and similar wipe on oil finishes (excluding gels)

    All oil based liquid stains (excluding oil based gel stains)

    Mineral Spirits

    Fuhr 255 Urethane water based finish (when added to finish)

    2K (2-component) polyurethane finishes

    * You can always apply TransTint to the wood, let dry, and then apply these products.

  3. Transtint And Two-part Urethane

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted · Edited by levelhead86

    Why don't you get the StewMac color tone stain? I used it on my bike helmet with 2K poly and I had no issues with it.

    The makeup of StewMac's stain is different? This I wouldn't have assumed, since they're so similar. The only reason I was going to use TransTint is because I'm ordering a veneer for the same project, and the place I'm getting it from offers TransTint, so I'll save on shipping versus ordering separately from StewMac. However, if it'll work with the urethane I've got, then it's worth the extra.

    Createx are pretty good too. As far as not having to seal the wood, it depends on the type of wood, Mahogany and woods alike will need to get sealed, maple and alder may be not.

    If I used a translucent/candy finish all the way across... will it still have the effect of "popping" the grain on my veneer like stain would, or no?

    Also, it's on an RG7420... so I'm guessing that's basswood, and then the veneer will likely be maple.

  4. Transtint And Two-part Urethane

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted · Edited by levelhead86

    Thanks again for all the research, and replies, guys...

    I haven't actually finished the guitar yet... the plan is to do a translucent burst over the whole thing. I figured I'd be mixing the TransTint with solvent, and spraying it over the whole thing... then adding then adding TransTint to my desired medium (I was originally hoping it to be urethane + catalyst) for the burst part, and then spraying the same medium (sans TransTint) over it as my clear coat. The goal being to stain the whole thing (so that the grain is easy to see); then to use the TransTint+medium to achieve a reasonably translucent burst pattern, while still deepening the finish and increasing the opacity of the sides/edges (to help hide the transition between top and the rest of the body wood).

    As for my preference for the urethane... it's because I've used lacquer (primer, color, clear) and I was moderately satisfied with the results. But, my last project I used the urethane and I fell in love with how it covered, how it sprayed, the depth of the finish, and how fast and hard it dried. I've noticed that you don't need to seal the wood before applying it either, which is a relief. Also, I have a bunch of urethane still around. :D

    However, I saw that TransTint can't be mixed with the urethane I'm using... so that put a real wrench in the works. The shellac sounds like a reasonable option, but it's starting to sound like more trouble than it's worth. That in mind, I'm guessing I can just return to using the lacquer for this project...?

    If you are looking for a transparent look, you can also use candy colors. Createx and Auto Air Colors make transparents and candy colors that are inexpensive, waterbased, and work just fine under 2 part poly's.

    Hmm... I'll consider that. Thanks

  8. Building Vs. Buying

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Ok Wes, here's the thing... single comments that state things such as "You don't have a guitar with a Floyd rose original and EMG 81/85 pickups for $300 new.The least expensive i have seen is more around the $650 - $700 mark." are nothing more than accusing, argumentative, and TOTALLY looks like railroading the subject at hand. I'm equally as guilty of this, by butting heads in here when I should be more subjective, like you are most of the time, and I apologize.

    I'm not going to disagree that you build your guitars using better materials *woods, pickups, hardware* than most custom shops/premium factory guitars I've seen/played.

    Most of what I've learned on here, I've learned from reading your *Wes* or Perry's write-ups and because I know I'm inexperienced in "from the ground up" type builds, I've been sure to sit and contemplate each and every cut on my first project so that the results are something I'm satisifed with and can use. And so far, that's been the case... *I'll prolly post the whole thing when I'm done.* Mind you, I'm about 8 months into the build, and I haven't even got to routing the truss channel yet because I'm working a piece at a time, and buying the tools I need as I go along *whenever it calls for something I don't have*, rather than just cob-jobbing it with whatever I've got.

    So I'm NOT trying to suggest that a great guitar will be built overnight, on a shoestring budget and go head-to-head with the quality of it's pro-shop equivalent.

    The only point I'm making here, is that if somebody starting out has experience working with wood *the kind that comes from trees, not the other*, has a clear focus on what they're trying to make, takes their time, has the right tools *even if it's in a friend's shop, or the schools shop, or the local furniture builder* and shops smartly for their supplies; then they can have a great quality first attempt *and likely accomplishment* without spending several thousand dollars. I've seen it before, and though it's uncommon *just because most people RUSH, and cut corners on things they shouldn't*, you can turnover great results in your first few builds. And there's a few members on here who have experienced that.

  10. Building Vs. Buying

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted · Edited by levelhead86

    The wood is the cheap part but the hardware cost is where the price soars.

    But then that basic guitar you build does not have a plywood body but probably has wood as good as a custom guitar.

    That's my sentiments exactly... As far as I've seen, the markup on guitars that come from the factory with premium parts is FAR beyond the price of putting it together yourself, or even hot rodding a "cheaper" guitar with the premium parts. This can be seen ala Alexi LTD lists for $1,499 and the ESP version lists for $2,669, and the only substantial PHYSICAL difference between the two being a different locking nut, and different tuning machines. And mind you, for those prices, you're getting a solid color paintjob so it's not likely there's AAAA top wood sitting underneath the finish.

    I'd never try to compete with the price of Squier Strat vs. building the same, but I am guaranteeing I'd be paying a buttload more for a neckthru RG7, baritone scale from ibanez, even if it had piece of crap pot-metal hardware, then if I made one myself with better hardware.

    The only difference overall is if you're planning on reselling the guitar afterward, then yeah, you're looking at losing some money; but don't forget that those big time dealers aren't paying full retail for all the wood, hardware, electronics, and finish like us hobbiests are mostly paying; so they're paying significantly less PER PART then you would. So yeah, resale is likely not going to favor you on a custom job unless you've got a good reputation and/or a real deal custom shop; but that shouldn't stop you from building a guitar for you, at your specs.

  11. Building Vs. Buying

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted · Edited by levelhead86

    If to be a "Dream guitar" it has to have a Floyd Rose, and EMGs *or whatever premium aftermarket pickup you want*, then I've got a "dream" Washburn at home that only costed me $300 itself...

    You don't have a guitar with a Floyd rose original and EMG 81/85 pickups for $300 new.The least expensive i have seen is more around the $650 - $700 mark.

    They're EMG HZs, and I added the original FR afterward, and the guitar was used. Furthermore, I'm not going to argue with you about what I have or don't have, and what it costed, or didn't cost me in an open forum. You're a great builder, and seem to be a really experienced player, but that doesn't give you the right to totally railroad the topic just because you disagree with the numbers I put on here. Just because I'm sure to find a deal on things before I buy them doesn't mean I'm either lying or all my equipment is junk.

  12. Building Vs. Buying

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted · Edited by levelhead86

    The neck portion on mine is a 3 piece mahogany, the fretboard is mahogany, and the wings are hard maple. The tuners are gotoh minis, and I did a TOM string-thru, so that explains it not costing a lot there; and I'm just using Duncan Designs *I had laying around, I bought for $20* in the beginning to be replaced with prolly Bareknuckles afterward....

    Again.. this is my first full-scale build, so that's the only reason I'm cheapskating it on the pickups and if everything in the playability of the guitar is to my liking, I'll drop the $150-$200 on a better set afterward.

    If to be a "Dream guitar" it has to have a Floyd Rose, and EMGs *or whatever premium aftermarket pickup you want*, then I've got a "dream" Washburn at home that only costed me $300 itself... just because it's cheap, doesn't mean it's "cheap".

  14. Building Vs. Buying

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted · Edited by levelhead86

    The guitar I'm building is a neckthru RG7.... and other than the fact that a production model doesn't exist, I've bought all the supplies for the guitar and THEN SOME... and it's only costed me $300, whereas, a custom shop model build to my specs could cost 10 times that....

    The only big issue was making sure I bought all the appropriate equipment to make the guitar in great quality, and that costed probally another $1000, but that was because I had crappy tools starting out; and even STILL it'll cost less than buying a custom shop model.

    The next guitar I build will cost significantly less, because I have a lot of leftover supplies and I know the mistakes to NOT make; and I also know where to buy supplies for the best price. So to me, ultimately, you're better off building your guitar unless your dream guitar is a Squier or some other "beginner" guitar.

    Hope I was SOME help.

  19. Ibanez Xiphos Video

    in Players Corner

    Posted

    I just got the new ZZounds catalog and saw that thing for the first time, and considering the features and the price... I was blown away...

    Seems to be their response to the success of Schecter, with the use of the neck through and the transparent finish on such a cheap guitar. I'll def. try one out, but then I'll prolly build a custom version... That's what we're supposed to do, right?

  24. Airbrushing And Paint Sunburst

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted · Edited by levelhead86

    If you're talking "airbrushing" and not "paint spraying", then the gun you're using should be small, and shaped kinda like a pen (see link):

    http://www.badgerairbrush.com/airbrush.htm

    But if you ARE talking about "paint spraying" equipment, like you use to paint a WHOLE car ( http://www.devilbissparts.com/mini/PSH3_150.gif ), then you're looking for a different kinda paint than what you're asking for. They sell ALL that kinda stuff here: http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/?gclid=C...CFRQxSgodT0dCxw and here http://www.autobodysupply.net/ ; as well as on e-bay, and your local automotive supply store *which your friend with the supplies should know*.

    As for the masking, you're supposed to spray either straight, or away from the masking, because if you angle toward it, it'll collect underneath the masking and not come out the way you want. Hope I can be of some help.

  25. Kahler Dump On Ebay

    in The Marketplace

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