strummer2k

I thought I saw a post a while back about filling small dings or dents in a poly coated neck with superglue, but I can't find it now. Am I remembering that correctly, can you really use superglue for that? I have a maple neck with a satin finish with a few small dings on the back that I want to smooth out. If not superglue, what is the best approach? Thanks.

Yeah, this is my first binding project. I already ordered the .090 stuff yesterday. Am I gonna have trouble with that? I am just doing a single layer this time.

Drak - everything you do looks wonderful. Are you using nitro?

Thanks - I haven't ordered the routerbit and bearing yet. I was gonna get that from StewMac as well. I'll go with the .09, thanks again.

I know it is somewhat subjective, but what is the most typical size for binding? Stewmac lists their binding in sizes: .020, .040, .060, .090. I honestly have no idea what would look good on a quilt-top tele. Thanks for any help.

There are quite a few threads on this subject. Try a search on neck angles and you will find what you need.

Don't aplogize, that is exactly what I wanted. Thanks for the info.

Frank:

The way I see it is that Don and the other people at lace were sort of "performing a play without the script." They had some of the genious but not all of it. As a result, when they started branching out to different sounds they made some bad pickups.

Can you expand a bit on this. I take it Don Lace is no longer with the current Lace company and not contributing to the current lineup of products? Have you heard the Lace Hot Golds?

And who is "APC"?

I have a set of Lace Golds in a '94 Am. Deluxe Strat. I have had kind of a love/hate thing going with them. You have to love how quiet they are which is why I originally bought the gtr. My '84 strat was just unbearable in a recording situation with regular single coils (before I learned about shielding).

At times the Golds have sounded a bit sterile to me, but I have recently spent a lot more time than I ever have adjusting the height and playing with different combinations and I am groovin on 'em again. I have the treble sides around 1/16, 3/32, 1/16 and the bass side around 3/32 on all three(the middle one may be a bit lower). They get great quack in positions 2 and 4. However, if I play just on the bridge, I gotta roll the tone back a bit, so I may have some more tweaking to do on that one.

I'm rambling a bit...but what I do really like is that they sound good overdriven. They can't do metal, but you can definitely get into some Smashing Pumpkins territory ( and that is a good thang). I think they sound great with scooped mids.

BTW, I also have a TSL602 which I got off of Ebay about six months ago.

I have been contemplating getting a set of Hot Golds. Supposedly they have a little more punch and more mids (but maybe it's just hype). We'll see. Hope some of that helps.

Oh, I saw someone ask about changing the covers over at the Lace forum. Don said it could be done, but you gotta be extremely careful. Just search that forum, it should be easy to find the thread.

I highly recommend USA Custom Guitars. Their customer service and products are incredible and they can have the guitar painted by Roxy any color you want.

Go here: S-1 switching diagrams and see some pdf's of the different S-1 switching systems for the various gtr and bass configurations. Supposedly, some of the new positions do include series and out-of-phase options. Some of the new positions do utilize different caps on them, but no values are given.

Thanks for the reply. In a strat, I assume:

1) it replaces one of the tone controls

2) you have rewire all of the pups to go through the other tone control

3) this device works for all of the pups

Does it come with instructions?

Has anyone ever tried one of these?

Super Midrange

Anyone ever dealt with them, are their products decent?

Hey Lex, how can you use a spiral bit with a template? Or am I missing something here? I thought you could put the bearings on these (except for the flush trim)?

Router bits can cause tearout, I know this for a fact, but I believe spiral router bits eliminate that. I may try a spiral bit to cut out a body next.

I saw that over at the ReRanch forum and just couldn't believe it. Absolutely beeeeautiful.

It would just take a bit longer but since you're building a guitar - you must have lots of patience anyway, right?

LOL - well, yes. I started out doing refins with nitro and made every mistake possible. But, I did learn the value of just taking your time and kinda enjoying the process more than anything.

I am starting a tele project for my first attempt (the body only). I have the wood on the way and am working on the body template right now. I don't have any router bits yet, so at a minimum, what would I need to do the body. I have a 2hp router (plunge and fixed base) that will take 1/2 or 1/4 bits. I would like suggestions for sizes and types of bits.

I do plan on binding the body (it will have a flat quilt top, not carved).

Also, my plan is to bandsaw the body fairly close and then use the template and router to clean it up as alot of people have suggested(going very slowly of course). I remember someone saying the upcut spiral cutters at Woodcraft might do a great job here, but there are several 1/2 versions and am not sure what to get. I am guessing I need one longer than 1 3/4??

And, is Woodcraft a better place than StewMac to get this stuff?

Thanks, for the help.

Keith is right and SwampAsh is the other wood that needs grain filling. If you want a "glass like" finish and you use either Mahogany or SwampAsh(there may be others I don't know about), then you need to fill the grain. There are detailed instructions on the ReRanch site for doing this (www.ReRanch.com). The methods will apply no matter what type of finish you decide on (poly, nitro etc.).

That said, I have seen some people who don't mind a rough finish and just let the nitro or poly sink into the pores. I think these people are in the minority however.

One more thing about grain filling is that you can really enhance the look of Mahogany or SwampAsh with a dark grain filler. It all depends on what type of finish you are trying to achieve.

I got the idea for this topic from another recent thread on the Strat heel. I keep seeing remarks about design flaws in such things as Strats and Les Pauls, but I don't always see people really state what those flaws are. Some may be obvious, some may not, but I think the discussion could really be constructive, especially for us noobs.

For instance, I am about to start on a LP oriented project, but I have been a Strat player all my life, so I would be interested in what people had to say in that regard. But I don't want to limit it to just that guitar...so

If you could change anything about any manufactured guitar, what would it be?

daveq, I know what a joiner looks like, but I cannot visualize what you are talking about in that last post.

Everyone sounds like they all agree that these power hand planers (even with the right angle guide) are not as effective for creating straight edges on boards (for instance, two book-matched pieces you want to glue together).

Hope I don't sound like a moron, but I just don't have any experience in the matter, however, it seems like you could use Daveman's approach with the power hand planer.

I bought this one, which sounds like I should take it back:

http://www.ryobitools.com/product/product....at=2&toolcat=63

Thanks for the input daveq, but let me ask this another way. (Obviously) I haven't built anything yet, but am gearing up for the first project and trying to make sure I have the right tools (so far, bandsaw, drill press, belt sander, router, oh, and the hand power planer).

If I buy/order body blanks or neck blanks, do they come squared up, or does it depend on who you buy from. If they come squared up, then I can take the hand planer back.

I have found a few sources for buying neck/body blanks, but would like to know what people around here typically use for a source. Thanks.

I bought one too (haven't opened it yet) for squaring up neck blanks and bookmatched body blanks. Will this tool work or should I have bought a joiner instead?

As a newbie, I definitely appreciate the work that went into that. I definitely learned a few things. Nice job.

Sorry, it took so long to get back to ya, but I have been getting the garage setup so that I have room for the bandsaw and some space to work in. Anyway, I found the Delta 12" at Lowes. I hit about 5 stores in the Dallas area before I could find one in stock and that one had only been there about 3 hours! They have apparently been selling like hot cakes. Anyway, good luck.

D***, (canuckguitarist), thanks for the post, that is a heck of a good price, but I went and bought a Delta 12" yesterday. The thing has a six inch capacity on it! Can't wait to get started.

What should I look for in a reasonably priced router for a first project? Does it have to be a plunge router (those seemed to be more expensive)? How powerfult should it be and what attachments (if any) should I consider? I am planning on doing a neck and body with binding. Thanks.