jaycee

I had a simillar problem with one of my builds. I was going to saw the block etc, but I think the cavity would have mergeged into the route for the pickup area, so the pickups would be very close, or even touching the block/spring.

In the end I just used a hardtail bridge assembly, and it sounds very good.

The body depth on mine was no thicker than 32mm. So it is a liitle thinner than yours, but you may get away with it but check the depth of the pickup route and the block first.

Thanks Mat.

I looked at M6 bolts the other day in Halfords and they looked up to the job.

I suppose there isn't much pressure on them in a direct sense, it is more of a cantelever type due to the string tension, so all they have to do is not get pulled through the neck block, which is where the washers come in

What size bolts do you reccomend I use to bolt the neck on?.

I am thinking about 8mm which is 0.31 inch

or 6mm which is 0.25 inch

I hate imperial when using small measurements, we changed to metric when I was about 10 so I tend to use both, but anything small I find metric is so much easier

Hi Michael, you could check this out UK Guitar forum

Simo who runs the forum also sells various guitar parts, mainly electric but I have got some usefull things off him for my Acoustic. Also being a UK forum many of the guys are based here and if you run into problems sourcing materials they may be able to help out by pointing in the right direction locally.

Many (if not all ) frequent here regularly as well.

If it's not to late, If the bushings can be pushed in by hand without to much force, and need to be gently prised from there "seated" position before coming out then I say they are perfect.

If youhave to push them in with a lot of pressure then they will be to tight, which will put pressure on the headstock, to loose well they may move a little but with everything tightened up and strung is more preferable to to tight

If you do use a jigsaw, take your time if you push to hard a broken blade is the least of your worries, what may happen especially if your close to the final body shape is that the blade may bend into the body so it will be undercutting it.

Maybe take it back to that local repair guy and tell him since he screwed up the project (because he did, he should have known better), he ought to fix it -- he can at least remove the neck, so you can rebuild the neck pocket (which would be my first choice to save this).

+1

I was going to say make sure you have the correct scale length setup on it, but I noticed the frets are in, so I assume you have

If your making a template from scratch ten you have to start with an outline drawn onto a piece of MDF for example.

Cut out the shape sand it fill in any faults.

When you are happy with it make a template from the one you have just made, which will be much better as you can use a router with a guide bit on it to cut the shape.

If your happy with that all well and good, if not make the needed adjustments on the 2nd template and repeat the process.

It may seem a little long winded but it is well worth the effort and experience you get from the process, not to mention a template thet can be used as often as you like.

Just one more point, make sure you don't put the rod in upside down

There are a few ways you can do this, by far the easiest is running the edges over a planer which most of us don't have. You could however try finding a local joiners / wood yard and ask them to do it for you. or

You could try using a Shooting Board Make sure the wood is clamped, and take off as little as possible until you are able to take off a shaving which is the whole length of the timber. Repeat this with all edge

Welcome to the forum Tyrs. a nice interesting thread to start off with.

Your question shows up your lack of experience or naivity about guitar building. ( not a critisism just an observation)

You will not find the answer of how to build a guitar on these forums, you will however find the answers and possible solutions to problems that you encounter along the way.

As many have allready said go and get Melvin's book "how to build an electric guitar" check your library they may have it there. That will tell you how it is done and then you will have a greater understanding of whats required.

people like Rich (fryovani) and Wez have a lot of experience, they have 1000's of posts between them they know what thier saying as do generally most builders with a couple of hundred posts next to their name. When I get a reply from such ones I know that i'm in good hands. Just check out their blogs or sites you'll know what I mean.

Most of they guys here just want to help and a passionate about building and are trying to help the rest of us avoid the many pitfalls that this hobby has.

Just get as much info as you can, build your guitar in your mind first then start on the wood

Happy building

so we should keep our leather suite in it's case?

Either that or if you really want to sit on it seal all the windows and doors and have some kind of air chamber, the type you see before microbiologists go into a potentially poisonous area, (as seen in many films)

If you keep your guitars in there cases then the aroma has nowhere to go therefore keeping the smell as new. Conversley keeping the guitars out of the cases will allow the the aroma to dissipate into the air and take on the smell of its surroundings.

Much the same happens for example to a leather suite, your room smells very leathery for a while and the smell slowly dissapears. So if you want your guitars smelling woody then keep them in the cases and never play them, which kinda defeats the oblect.

Sorry to spoil the humour in the thread

I found this gear of the greats tried to download the file but the page wasn't loading at the time. I will go back and have another try, but I thought what a good idea, many players want a certain sound simillar to there fav band and don't actually know what pickups etc they use.

Hopefuly this this will clarify things a bit

I have a u channel truss rod, and have just received a carbon fibre square ( oblong )profiled rod. Do you reccomend that I glue the cf rod in place, if so what is the best adhesive to use. I am building a 12 string so I wanted the xtra stiffness (if only for peace of mind) that the cf ros will give.

My guess is to use an epoxy resin on the rod

Inteesting tutorial about fitting USB port to a guitar

Telecaster

Just been to my local Lidl store and I picked up a pack of 3 Diamond universal sharpener blocks/stones the verythin ones with 3 different grits on . I have used these for sanding the edges of frets flush with the fretboard just after cutting, and putting a bevel on them, and they work very well.

this type

Also a pack of 3 x 50m:- 1x 13mm 1x 19mm 1x 50mm masking tape Both items costing £2

in my book that's a good deal

Send them back and get them exchanged for the size you want.

It may cost a little in p+p but it will save you a lot of hassle in the long run

you can post one pic per post (unless it's a tutorial) and put links to the rest of them, if you want more than one , as far as I remember

Eriks is visually striking, and probably the best looking . I would have gone for Dans Acoustic if I hadn't been following Blackdogs first build which is really nice and clean , sorry Digit the inlay work although x l ent was a bit to much for me

I like the carve. The way the lines on the top section mirror the body shape is really nice.

If you look at the pickguard on a strat the lines just seem to clash with the body shape, whereas the lines on the top of the body complement the overall shape.

That looks absolutely beautiful. A few more pics would be nice.

18mm should work fine. My strat is 30 - 33mm thick with the neck pocket at 16mm and thats fine for it............and yes it is very light

Well whilst Stumbling yesterday I came acroos a guitar that had the body shaped as a Fender headstock, and the headstock shaped as a Strat.

This is good news< but I bet your as nervous as hell. .

The thing to remember is that HE Picked YOU so he must think your work is of a good standard. Have confidence in your abilities, and as one of the guys mentioned get him to pay for at least the materials up front, so if it does go pear shaped, you still have something from it.