jaycee

I have seen that page thanks, but there is no dimension for the depth of the tenon, not unless I'm missing it, although if that drawing is to scale it looks about 20mm

I am going to use a mortise and tenon joint with a bolt and barrel to join it all together.

My plans don't have this type of joint on them so I am wondering what size to make the tenon, 25mm ( 1" ) deep or maybe 20mm (3/4 ")

What has worked best for you guys?

"I feel very strongly that what keeps aspiring students stuck in the dilettante level, and from progressing towards professionalism, is this very inspirational-sounding, romantic quest for perfection.

Perfection: phooey! Perfection is the enemy of the Good. I've seen too many indulging this illusion, get stuck fine-sanding each kerfing chip and then crash-burning out of the craft. I know many professionals and they all had to get past this perfection-quest to become successful, world-class luthiers.

I'm unimpressed by perfection: A machine run by a complete nincompoop can cut a microscopically flat surface on a piece of wood, far flatter than any Old World Master ever could. Far more difficult is to create a guitar with Soul, with artistry, with uniqueness, with Magic. And to get there you've got to build many, many guitars. Perfection keeps you stuck forever trying to finish your fifth guitar. Leave perfect for the engineers. Leave art for the Artist".

William Cumpiano

I just love that

Thanks guys, well worth remembering before you hit the start button

Having made the jig, two 14 degree triangular sides screwed into two routed channels, I thought the finish should have been better than it was, the end of the timber at the thin part had a waney edge.

So I made another pass which caused a tear out, fortunately I had plenty of timber to work with so I was able to take more off.

This time I went even SLOWER than before (which I thought was slow enough) and the result was very good, straight edges and a good flat surface.

I used Evo-Stik on my last guitar without any problems, but have noticed that many of you use Titebond original, whats the pro's and con's of these glues?

Has anyone used / uses a glue joint cutter like this one

I think Taylor may have or still does, to join the headstock to the neck and save on timber.

The standard rod size is 3/16 dia., maybe go with 1/4" to beef it up a little?

Hmm now thats a good idea

Thanks guys I will probably go with one rod then, the neck is going to be made from Mahogany, not sure of the fret board yet although I am thinking of ash or a something that is light in colour to contrast the neck

I am building a 12 string acoustic guitar.

I assume the truss rod will be the same type that I used in my strat, a standard 2 way one simillar to this http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Hot...Truss_Rods.html except that the top part was a flat steel bar rather than a rod, which was welded to the collars at the ends.

I'm just double checking before I go out and buy one.

X L Ent thats sorted and every one agrees i'm happy.

thanks guys

Maybe I haven't explained it to good.

Heel block = the shaped piece which connects to the out side of the body. which is then bolted to the

Neck block which is inside the body. If I were to make the neck and heel block out of one solid piece of timber the grain obviously would face the same way.

As I am glueing pieces together do I glue them in the same way as above or turn the block 90 degrees.

If I am reading your replies correctly any way will do

thanks for your comments

Just a quick q? before I cut .

On the heel block does does the end grain face along the length of the guitar, so by the time it has been shaped and joined to the body you wouln't see any of it.

Cheers

ok, my friend & I have just come up with the perfect stage show for this guitar....

The lights dim

A spotlight rests on a weary .............

He plays an E5, Piro's go off, the band kicks in, the crowd goes wild

Manowar eat your heart out

Thats brill I could see and hear it all happening as I read it..................think I'll do it again.........

http://www.fender.com/vgstrat/home.html

I just came across this new for 2007, looks impressive

Ive done it on a Strat style guitar that was 33mm average thickness, with the neck pocket back being about 12mm thick, as mentioned above you just have to use shorter screws

I use a fine grit sponge sanding pad. Just run that along the frets and it takes off the edge

Theres also a great tutorial here http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/fretting.htm

Allen I noticed your from the UK. If you go here

http://simnettguitars.co.uk/bb/index.php One of the guys who also posts on here used to make templates I think it was "simo" or "tender surrender" cant remember who.

there are links to uk suppliers also.

Melvyns book is the bible of electric guitar building.

Buy or make templates. If you buy them just check to make sure they are correct as there have been issues with some. If you make them is a lot cheaper to remake one if you mess it up.

Happy building

I personally like to spray 1 good coat in the neck pocket for bolt ons and then sand it down to accomodate the neck fit. I use just enough finish to seal off the wood.

Yep same here

Great replies guys, I tend to read a lot and pick up different ways of doing things that will work for me. After all no one has the perfect way of building these instruments

Thanks G W I had a feeling someone may say that, but being that I can get Cumpianos from the library I may go for Kinkeads for the moment.

My Acoustic is still in the planning stages I have some 6 foot lengths of mahogany which I salvaged from a skip last summer. They used to be door frames so theres plenty of useable wood there.

I just found out that Kinkade works from Bristol in the UK which is only 45 miles or so from me so I may even take a drive over the bridge and see if I can suss out his stuff.

Thanks for the reply

I have borrowed Cumpianos book from my local library and was well impressed with it. I have also read some good reviews about Kinkeads book and was wondering if anyone familliar with Kinkeads book could say how they feel it compares to Cumpiano's

.... but I anthropomorphise the wood too much,

Anthropomorphism is the attribution of human characteristics and qualities to non-human beings, objects, natural, or supernatural phenomena. A form of personification (applying human or animal ... courtesy of google........

I can understand that, I loved the "this is what a flamed top should look like " comment

The woodworking experience will help you lots. I got my plans off ebay £8, $15 I made sure that if after researching a particular aspect of building e.g. "how to cut the neck pocket" and I still couldn't get my head around it, then I would not start it, only when I understood it and it was clear in my mind did I got ahead.

Patience is the key word as allready mentioned, I was well pleased with my first build, as were my mates.