jaycee

Good name for an album

Titebond will be fine for this. I used it on my 12 string acoustic without any problems. If things do slide around then you have put to much on. With the correct amount of glue it will bite fairly quickly.

So many fantastic builds this month, but i'm a sucker for acoustics and there were 2 this month.

Sardine - MaccaPherson got my vote.

Bit more progress

Great build. Reminds me of my 12 string acoustic build a few years ago, I really enjoyed it.

I agree with the jack and pickguard design as well.

Trying to work out if I can make a template which can be used to cut out the whole neck and stop router wobble.

I have wondered the same thing recently and thought of a 4"-5" wide template with each edge being profiled, one for the left side and the other for the right side of the neck. That way there should be enough support for the base of the router.

Liking the shape on this.

The burn marks could be due to the router staying over that area to long.

Found it hard to get anything done over the winter, but got back into the swing of it recently.

Going to give this a try so that the fretboard is held in place when gluing.

6 pieces of spruce glued to the waste side of the neck tight up to the fretboard side.

Once the fretboard is clamped I will tap the pieces off.

Very simple should work a treat...... :-\

It worked a treat.

I had a bit of a mishap whilst routering the headstock down to thickness.

Anyway by the time I sorted it out, I have ended up with a 12.5mm thick headstock. I'm not to concerned with the machine head bushings, as I can take these down to the required thickness.

But I am thinking of strength issues with a headstock this thin, it does however have a 3mm Cocobolo veneer on it.

My gut feeling is that it should be alright. If it isn't then I will try and put a veneer on it which will be a little tricky as I have already shaped the volute

Another Bass build for me. As soon as my mate saw the Bass that I had built for my brother he wanted one built for himself.

34" Scale length, Black hardware

Figured Olive Ash top

Cocobolo Fretboard

Cocobolo headstock plate.............All 3 from Andy at Prime Timbers

Maple/Walnut 6 laminate neck

3 piece Ash body

Quite a few vids on youtube

I asked a simillar question the other week......

Great build Rad. Enjoyed the thread.

The contrasting scarf piece in necks are becoming more popular with builders on here. have you (or anyone else)

had any problems with them, i.e. integrity of the join. I know the answer is going to be "no" they are fine but

a little assurance will help.

Done correctly the answer is no. Now if you use the wrong wood or orient the grain the wrong way then yes.

One thing to consider is that different species of wood contract and expand at different rates. So it is very important to align the grain with the rest of the neck so that the scarf doesn't pull against the other pieces in the neck.

I also tend to only use hard woods I would use for fretboards in the scarfs. So this build has bloodwood scarf and lams. The blooodwood I have in the shop is very stable so I trust it to do the right thing.

It is not always the case I doubt you would catch me putting Ziricote in a scarf as it is hard to glue and generally unstable.

Another one I wouldn't do is oily cocobolo. I have several pieces of cocobolo that are extremely oily and are hard to glue with titebond. I don't use them in necks... only for fretboards and decorations were I can use a good epoxy against them.

I wouldn't use mahogany or ash or limba or similar woods in a scarf (although a mahogany/limba/mahogany neck sounds like it would work). It would be a waste of time. The idea is to accent and create lines that flow in the neck while increasing the stability.

Use your woodworking instincts when doing this and you will be fine.

The English language you gotta love it. When Razbo mentioned a "cab" I thought for a minute that I missed the whole point of the thread and you wanted to build a taxi

The one thing to make sure of when using your own timber is the moisture content, but I guess you're already aware of that. As regards inlays in the top I see no reason why it couldn't be done, after all isn't a rosette an inlay?.

Most people would look at what you want to build as a "speaker" not a speaker cabinet, hence my search for "speaker construction" Also if you want to build a speaker you need to construct a cabinet to put the driver into. Altering the phrase you input into google can make a huge difference with the results

I built a cab years ago for a speaker only. Some good info found here

I just googled "guitar speaker construction" " speaker construction" and theres quite a lot of info out there

Considering I'm not to keen on the 335 this is looking superb, and the "Golden 50's" headstock is brilliant. It makes you look a bit harder when something appears correct but you know there's something not quite right with it.

Thanks for the reply. I feel more informed now if I do get around to doing one.

Great build Rad. Enjoyed the thread.

The contrasting scarf piece in necks are becoming more popular with builders on here. have you (or anyone else)

had any problems with them, i.e. integrity of the join. I know the answer is going to be "no" they are fine but

a little assurance will help.

Really enjoying this build, the I think the "custom" wedges holding the binding on typifies the amateur builder to a T'. There's probably a tool for that somewhere. Looking good Al

"Air-In Fall: Swaying Hearts and Minds With Purple and Orange" got my vote this month. The leaves inlay are great, as is the rosette.

BAPHOMET WARLOCK love the colour, and the design on the front. Not to keen on the heel to body transition looks a bit "lumpy"

Lemon VI, Looks tidy enough, not enough pics tho'

Blue Burst Lester, I read the build thread the other day in one hit, great job on it. There's not much I don't like on this apart from the Bigsby (make the body look crowded) and the control knobs, apart from that i'd have it.

--Punisher-- A very close second.The Wenge is stunning, makes me want to build a V.

RG7 Facelift. Nice and clean, good first build.

Gretsch Jupiter/Thunderbird I like the heel, and that's about it, the rest is down to my taste and Gretsch are not my favouite brand. Putting my tastes to the side, with the amount of instruments you build there just seems to be a bit lacking, it's as if you can't wait to finish the current build so that you can start the next one. it may be the pics but the fret markers don't appear to clean and the binding on the body could be better.

P&W Great job on the swirl, and I like the neck good choice of woods.#

Whalehazard Thunderback LW Another one down to taste, it does nothing for me except "I wonder what happened to that SG"

Great inlay work on the Dueling Dragonsvery shiny but a bit busy for my taste.

Crows - new design came a close second, I liked the inlays and the carving very nice burst and body colour. Kramersteen The Voyager is my third and favourite of all his entries the map artwork is excellent, as is the skulls on the Bonfire.

I love Zebrano so it seemed a pity to paint the green Zebra green.

So Demonx Groges signature spec got my vote this monthit is nice and clean, simple great black finish but it was the "Tobacco burst paint on rear of neck" that sold it for me. So easy to forget the reverse of the guitars.

If I had posted better pics of my Cecar I'm sure I would have walked away with it

Ah I see, it's already built

The sides on an acoustic guitar need to be stiff in order for all the energy to be transmitted to the soundboard which vibrates. When I built my 12 string I left the bracing quite deep as I didn't want to experiment to much. I glued ribs onto the side which made the them very stiff and in my opinion helped the energy transmit into the soundboard very well, the result of which helped the sound project excellently.

I would use a cylinder jack into the side.Cylinder Jack

If the holes through the body is to tight drilled or has gotten too much finish in them there is a high probability that the screws don't "bite" good enough, leading to the owner over tightening the screws and destroying the holes in the neck. *That* will never happen with threaded inserts and thats why I use them on all bolt on necks I make. Some extra security.

I don't understand the statement above.

You're saying that if the screw holes through the body are too tight, that's a problem?

It can be. If the screws used are completely threaded all the way to the head, then as you tighten they may push the neck away before they bite into the neck. When all 4 screws are then tightened and you notice that the neck has a bit of play in it, the natural thing to do is to tighten some more. At this point some threads will be stripped. The way to avoid this is to drill the holes in the body slightly larger that those in the neck, so when it is tightened, the neck is being pulled into the body.

Oh and in answer....Threaded inserts by a mile

^^ Thanks Hitone.

Thanks jaycee...Yes, my own shape, inspired by 50's Archtops.

In inches...lower bout 16.5, waist 10.5, upper bout 12.75, length 20.75.

Thanks for the measurements.