jaycee

Nice work Kill', the finish looks xlent very flat . I bet your pleased as punch with this.

Draw it out FULL SCALE neck, pocket and bridge. 2-3 degrees is about average for a tom bridge.

Really, the only reason I'm wanting to make an acoustic at all is so that I can learn the process and then make an archtop. That will lead to 335-ish semi-acoustics. Neither needs an acoustic-style bridge.

Why make an acoustic at all then? Imo a 335 is closer to an electric than it is an acoustic.

Just some more detail on the bridge. When I was researching about the design I saw some pics of a bridge designed by John Osthoff, it was not unlike mine in design (which gave me the confidence to go ahead with it) but rather than the strings coming the back edge they were anchored by the ball ends going over a pin which was seated into the bridge. Unfortunately I can't find the pics of it.

Anyway heres mine

There are plenty on Ebay but I guess you may all ready have looked there, or you could as I did, make your own

6 strings through the back edge sim' to a classical and the other 6 straight through held in with pins.

Be careful with them. I have found that some contain silicone and will leave the dimple marks on the wood from a light stain of the silicone and it will appear in your finish.

Ask me how I know this I used one I bought at Woodcraft. It no longer resides in my shop.

Just an FYI to test it first.

MK

+1. Most annoying, I had to re sand and re-apply the finish

What country are you in? And what state if in the us?

And welcome to the forum

As the photo clearly shows it is only for cleaning brains.

It does that allright, you can't remember a thing in the morning, brain completly re-formatted

Nice one Km that looks and sounds sweet, those EMG's are the puppies

yes, for general cleaning I use, naptha, acetone and IPA..

all available easily.

You use IPA It's a lovely pint from where I come from, never thought of cleaning with it.

I thought about trying different methods for a while , but in the end opted for this solution

Template It does save a lot of hassle and time . And there are different shapes available

If you have enough table top space you could fix two lengths of say 3" x 2" and use folding wedges taped between the tops and the 3 x 2

This is called "Cassella" after my two nieces Cassie and Ella, I could have named it the other way around but I didn't fancy a guitar called Elsie.

I have morphed a Les Paul and Telecaster with a slimmer lower bout than the LP generally has.

The Build Thread can be found there.

Specs:

Scale Length 24 3/4" ( 628mm )

Body

Ash and Sapele on the front

Obeche/Sapele/Obeche on the back

Cavity cover is Sapele held on with magnets.

Neck

Horizontal laminate of Ash and Sapele

Wenge fretboard

Maple Roman Numeral inlays

Electrics

Pickups are Iron Gear. In the neck position a P90 and the Blues Engine Humbucker in the bridge position

1 Volume. 1 Tone. 1 3 way switch.

The Knobs for the pots are Ash and Sapele with Wenge top, and the switch tip is Wenge

Finish

Rustins Clear Matt Polyurathane varnish, applied with a brush.

Front

Back

Recessed Jack socket

Fretboard

Other pics

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/J...ee/IMAG0535.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/J...ee/IMAG0539.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/J...ee/IMAG0522.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/J...ee/IMAG0520.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/J...ee/IMAG0504.jpg

Simo got a good result doing a fretless bass conversion

Fretless Bass conversion

interview on youtube

I just put a couple of Iron Gear in my build, Platinum P90 and a Blues Engine HB, apart from suiting my budget they sound very nice, the P90 has a wonderful tone.

If I could afford them it would be EMG's

If it was mine I would get a bridge with a larger than normal footprint, make sure that all the varnish has been removed from underneath the bridge then glue it with Epoxy. As long as you use enough epoxy it will fill in the void where the top has been sanded away, but not to much so that you minimise squeeze out.

Also some tempoary pins could be placed in the holes to stop them filling up with glue and aid the placement of the bridge.

The reason why I say epoxy rather than titebond, is that it has better gap filling properties and is more cohesive.

I was wondering if there is some kind of cnc pyrography system available, it would take eons if done that way by hand.

Fantastic build Perry, love the colour.

2 things I would change

1 . As has been mentioned, the covers look out of place (even though they match the neck)

2. The Heel. It just doesn't flow for me. I would like to see a smooth transition without the step. It would probably feel better as well.

Would it put me off wanting one NO!

I have had a Ash neck (2 piece horizontal laminate) for 3 years on my strat with no issues

Cool. What fret board are you using ?

Any taughts on the tone aspect of it ?

I'd say it gives has a brighter tone than Sapele, and the fretboard wood is American Oak so I was told. To be honest I used the Ash as it was left over from a previous job and had been sitting for 10 years, and the Oak was a piece reclaimed from a bank re-fit.

What Sleen said about movement is the same I experienced in pieces from 10mm thick down, it does have a tendancey to move at those thicknesses.

I wouldn't hesitate in using again.

I have had a Ash neck (2 piece horizontal laminate) for 3 years on my strat with no issues

how did you change the pole pieces to gold ?

removing them can ruin the coil if you're not careful

The Pole piece screws in one side

I installed a p90 and a humbucker (2 wire) the 90 is fine the rest of the post refers to the HB.

It didn't work from day 1. I wired it direct to the jack nothing , took it to my local guitar tech who put it on a meter, nothing. Returned it and the the guy could not find anything wrong with it, sent it back to me I installed it and it worked perfectly, but then after a few days it cut out but worked again after about 2 minutes and the same again a few days later. A replacement was promptly dispatched to me.

This one worked fine....until yesterday couldn't get a thing out of it. I have spent the last 2-3 hours re-wiring, wiring it up direct to the jack, checking the selector switch still nothing. I even changed the the point where the earth is soldered. I had it out and wired it to the selector switch and it worked, there was a screw on the back of the pup and I could hear it moving about through my amp (it was one of the surrounds that got picked up by the magnets)

Put it back in ........nothing.

I had a cheap Hb which I have put it the guitar and it works fine.

The pickup is a Zebra type but I put a gold cover on it and I changed the pole pieces to gold as well, and the surround is a metal gold one

I am out of options, apart from getting another replacement or if you guys can come up with something.

definately the curvier one on the left, takes it a little towards a parlour guitar shape - which i always like...

although i think you should make one explorer shaped so killemall has a proper option to choose

The right one, smaller overall size will make it more comfortable to play, and prob' because my classical is a simillar shape.