jaycee

R DUb- Zebrano is one of my fav woods, not much I would change except for the fretboard end, I don't like them protruding

into the sound hole and on the heel I would have liked the grain on the cap to have matched the body, theres a light streak

just to the right on the back of the guitar and a simillar one on the left of the heel cap, but that's just me being picky.

Andy T The swirl is gorgeous, it deseves to win on that alone

Jvillavicencio - beautiful top loverly graining the waist seems a little high, bit of odd shape but eyecatching.

Simo- Another stunner from the Simo's bass production linen not much to say about this except go back and take another look

Drifter WOW was my first reaction. I prefer the look of the back than the front. Not to keen on the colour or if it was a bit

more transparent I think it would have appealed more, but a first class finsh.

PRS Tait Another guitar I prefer the back of. I like the way the belly carve goes onto the switch cover and the use of magnets

adds to the flow of the back. One thing I think could be better is the finish, although highly polished it looks as if the

coats haven't been flattened before the next one went on.

Hooglebug I do like the shape and carving on the front, the headstock is nice as is the colour

Maikkeli I think this deserves better pictures, the inlays look good

I still haven't made my mind up. If I were offered one it would be R Dub's acoustic with Simo's bass a very close second

I emailed them about a year ago, and they said due to the fret slotting difficulty etc they don't supply frets only. If you want your guitar with thier frets you could send the neck in.

Why don't you ask someone here to buy the pins, send them a cheque and they forward the pins onto you?

Get some spruce veneer, glue it together and build up the thickness, then when you can't stab a hole in it with your finger that's your minimum thickeness. I reckon it will be around 3mm

As soon as I saw Scotty D bass I thought it will be hard to beat, but at the moment of writing it is neck and neck with Hooglebug' tricaster. The finish on that bass is top as is the control cavity cover. It just oozes quality,

Jaden' F control cavity cover is the best one I have seen in a while

For the rest although very good builds nothing really hit me visually . As for my build I just wanted a 12 string so I didn't deviate off the norm to much, but it sounds as good as any I have played so I am well pleased with it.

As allways well done to every one, it takes a lot of dedication and hard work to turn out one of these instruments.

Lemmy

Wow! I think this is the first time I ever see a fretboard binding that looks great to me. I'm not a big fan of bindings at all, but this one is just beautiful. Just like the entire instrument

Yup this is one handsome guitar

Any pic's inside and out ?

Interesting concept. How thick will the "double top" be? I have done sandwiching in a non guitar related way and it does make the part very stiff. It will be interesting to hear what the acoustics are like with this, with not much vibration in the top.

I will keep an eye on this build.

I don't mean to hyjack this thread but while we are on the subject on PVA glues i've been using this for most of my work. Any body else use it or any better suggestions for future as i'm running out

Seems like they don't have evo stik in the states. I used it exclusivley on my strat with no problems. I also read of another builder who uses it as well.

It has been used for donkeys years in the building and joinery trade so you shouldn't have any problems with it. I haven't and my strat has been together for 3 years now. They also do a waterproof type that comes in a blue container.

I have since moved onto titebond original and I did find that it became tackier more quickly than the evo stik. I will stay with titebond not because I think the evo stik is inferior, but because it seems to be the adhesive of choice for many builders.

You may have to look in the smaller tool outlets or on ebay, as when I tried b&q and some of the larger stores they didn't have it.

A couple of pics of the heelcap which is Maple Burr or Burl depending where you live Courtesy of Wez

Here is my entry

"Dread-Niamh"

Spruce top

Cherry back and sides

Walnut banding

Sapele neck with a rosewood fretboard and birds eye maple veneer on the headstock.

maple burr heel cap

Maple Burr rosette made up of 2 pieces .6mm veneer

Rosewood bridge of my own design, morphing the bridge pin and classical style ways of stringing the guitar.

Finish is a brushed on Satin varnish

Build thread can be found Here

I was pleased with the flatness of the headstock. Anyway this build is DONE. ;D, And in my and my mates humble opinion it sounds amazing, just like a real 12 string..lol.

The sound has exceeded my expectations. I will post some pics later but here is the headstock

I am calling it "dread-niamh".

Can you post some pics of the whole guitar?

The bridge looks like a straight replacement. Fortunately you have the outline from the varnish to show you its approximate placement if you are replacing it with a new one. If you have the old one then just clean it up and re glue.

Regarding the crack you could put some veneer on the inside held in place by a bag of sugar or flour somthing with a bit of weight, then tidy up the outside, or put a side brace on it and tidy up the outside. In either case fill in the cracks with some glue.

when posting pics copy the IMG code from your photobucket page, then paste into your thread and voila

Looks good 'craft.

Have you taken the neck off the guitar? if you haven't and it's a straight fretboard replacement i.e. nothing else has been removed, then it should line up.

Anyway try this, measure the width of the figerboard at the top and the bottom, half those measurements and draw a line to connect those points, this then gives you a centre line. Assuming the guitar top is a 2 piece you have a centre line on the guitar allready, align the two centrelines and that should give you your answer.

Thanks for the replies.

Ok so Spruce is not a neck wood but I presume it could be used for the neck block, tail block and kerfings. Yes I asked him to look out for some Mahogany, or Rosewood which Ive seen some piano cases made from.

Kerfing, neck block,tail block and side bracing is ok to use spruce

I bought one and the kerf was too large so I "closed" the kerf by knocking all the teeth flat resulting in the cut being the same thickness as the saw blade.

I thought gents saws didnt have set on them. Do i have to make sure they dont have a set?

The one I bought was set. Perhaps it's not the same for all makes. I wasn't much but enough to make the slot go from easy to snug

Another source for wood is your local joiners shop. They generally have lots of stuff that gets put on the shelf.

I bought one and the kerf was too large so I "closed" the kerf by knocking all the teeth flat resulting in the cut being the same thickness as the saw blade.

First couple of coats of varnish on

The neck is awesome it has really come to life with the varnish on it.

The first thing to do is post some pictures of the damage if you are able, and this will give us a better idea of what's required.

Slacken off the strings, and take a look at This thread

Make sure you have a look at the video it's very informative.

Woodenspoke has said it really. If there is a big difference between the storage conditions and the working conditions then you will see a lot of movement.

Wood will adapt to it's environment. If you go to saw mills or building centres all the timber is stored outside under cover. As long as it is dry and given enough time to acclimatise to your working conditions as 'Spoke said it should be ok.

Saying that mind I like to keep mine in the area where the build will take place, and make sure that I have air gaps all around the timber.