djhollowman

Hi all, I'm about to replace a missing soundhole rosette on a friends Ovation electro-acoustic. The underside of the new rosette is completely flat, and made of plastic. I'm wondering what is the best type of glue to use for this? I don't want any obvious signs, or any blooming/reaction etc. The old (factory fitted) one was obviously stuck down with some kind of black brittle resin, which I've carefully removed of course! So, epoxy? Superglue/CA? (I did do a very quick search on the forum here,but didn't find an immediate answer) Thanks, DJ

Not much of an answer, but I've asked the guys on this forum a few wiring questions before, and always found satisfaction! http://guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.cgi Not to take away from all the talent here, y'unnerstand........... DJ

Assuming you've tried the suggested diagrams here: http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH3T1101 Yeah? I know that EMG actives are not meant to be grounded. I have some guitars with them too, never had any trouble with the wiring though. I do have the tone capacitor going from the tone pot to the vol pot on at least one guitar. I'm assuming you've got a stereo jack, and the correct pots for actives?? You gotta eliminate the suspect amp from the equation too I think. This isn't much help.......sorry! DJ

Going slightly offtopic but: Is there a tutorial anywhere on exactly how to do just that? I mean, make a Jaw3-type contraption? DJ

Thanks guys! Yeah, I found the link you mention here: http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Techni...luebinding.html Very good info, exactly what I need! That same sun-aged trick is mentioned on the above linked page as well! Cool! Thanks, DJ

Hi all, Hoping someone has a neat trick to "age" this new piece of binding I've just installed on a friends electro-acoustic fingerboard (and to disguise the join a little maybe??): Appreciate anything useful guys! Thanks, DJ

Hey all! Can anyone recommend a place to get custom vinyl logo (text) graphics done, in small quantities, for a SENSIBLE price? I'm in the UK, but with today's wonderful internet commerce I guess that's not crucial!! I have in mind that I could just upload a .jpg or similar, pay up and wait for it to arrive in the mail??? Thanks, DJ

Yeah, some Westone's had painted or stained 'boards, like these Spectrums: http://www.westone.info/spectrummx.html The blue is nicer than the red I guess!! DJ

Rich, You're a fella whose opinions and input I have very much come to respect and welcome.(along with some others!) I have read through your last reply here 3 times, and let it sit in my brain to digest for a couple of days. You make some very sound points, and you are absolutely right! Without the requisite luthier training it would be unacceptable for me to ever charge pro rates - although, to be fair to myself here, that was never my intention! I think it's much more reasonable to do repairs on an honest level, which is what I'm getting into a little bit already, and charge a "reasonable" price - "reasonable" as defined by my judgement of the work involved. I have somewhat of an advantage in that there are no pro luthiers working anywhere near where I live, meaning that if someone wants work done and I'm capable of doing it then I stand a fair chance of getting the job!! However, that's also a disadvantage because I would really like to understudy and learn from a real pro. I think I'll keep going on that basis for now. Good stuff! DJ

Thanks for your thoughts, fellas! No problem! It's all interesting! Heh, it would appear I'd have to earn £64,000 before I need to be VAT-registered, which is almost three times my current salary!! Eh?

Wow, this is real food for thought here! I'm also very keen to work on guitars as a paying hobby. Thing is.....where to start? I have no formal lutherie training. Or electronics training. Or woodworking training. But what I do have is hand skills, massive enthusiasm, (almost!) all the tools I need, a keen eye for detail, and high standards. I take pride in my work, and the repetoire of jobs I can do confidently and well (to a customers satisfaction) is growing with my experience. Does my lack of electronics training prevent me from fitting a new pickup to the customers (and my) satisfaction? Not necessarily. And if I have ANY doubts about it, I'll either turn it down, or explain my concerns to the customer first. I'll also do research and practicing (where possible) so that I no longer have doubts. Do it properly, or not at all. I mean, I live in a very small island community with no hope of ever doing this as a fulltime job, so although Perry's comprehensive answer is entirely valid (and very though-provoking!), it's also kinda depressing for me! Eg. I will never have to employ staff. I can only work from home. I would never get local funding. I must keep my fulltime "dayjob" or my kids don't eat! However, because there's only a limited amount of work out there, I feel like I would never get anywhere by not charging anyone for a particular job just because I'm not a trained luthier. Obviously I'm completely honest with every potential customer, and I try to show them examples of what I can do, and explain what I can't/won't do. But the point is I want to make progress! And how am I to make progress without actually doing the work?? So I practice on other stuff of little or no value, or my own instruments. And all the time I feel I'm making good progress! In saying all this, I'm also trying to put myself in the customers shoes, trying to think about what their expectations and standards will be. Personally, of course I would feel better entrusting my guitar to a trained luthier, so how would "I, the customer" feel if I encountered "me, the wannabe guitar repairman" offering to do the work but for a lower price? I recently had a very interesting conversation with a guy from Feiten, where he explained about how some of their staff "graduated from the school of hard knocks" without "formal" qualifications. So I guess it is possible. At what point of experience can I class myself as "pro" enough to charge pro rates?? Or, similarly, in whose opinion when can I class myself as competent enough to charge anything other than "mates rates"? (That's a serious question, it sounds more sarcastic than it's meant to!) Some excellent comments regarding insurance etc here though!!! Just some opinions........we all should at least have opinions, right? What I'm looking for is advice here, not argument. DJ

This guy makes and sells custom-made pickup rings. Not sure if he makes the shape you need, but may be worth a try. He might do kinda one-offs or something. I had him make me a set for EMG 7 string pickups, and the quality and price are really very good! Very high quality work actually. DJ

I've never seen scalloping done like that before. Viewed from the side that's quite a saw-toothed shape. I've seen several which, when viewed from the side again, have a more consistant "wave-y" type shape (if you see what I mean...??) I think I like it............. Good on yer for trying it! DJ

Going off topic I realise, but.... If by silver you mean actual silver, eg sterling silver (as opposed to silver-coloured metal) I would point out that silver tarnishes on contact with air, and even more so when in contact with.....you guessed it.....your skin! The chemical composition of your sweat will discolour it in no time. Everyone's a little different of course! Silver can actually go a nice black colour if left to tarnish enough. That's 18 years of experience working for a jewellery manufacturer talking. Now, stainless steel on the other hand..... DJ

Cool! Thanks for that TripleFan - I'll definately keep that in mind! DJ

Yeah, I like the idea of making a neck jig. I understand the principles of why this happens now. Yeah, I'm gonna finish the rest of it and try it strung up before attempting anything more "chiropractic" with it! Good stuff, thanks fellas!! DJ

Hello from another Scottish would-be luthier!!! I'm way up in "sunny" Orkney, where you at? See ya 'round the forums here! DJ

Hmm....thought I'd replied to this earlier today, but the post isn't here. Maybe I just previewed it...? Anyway, Yes, it's a new neck, never been strung. Sorry! I should have made that clearer in the beginning! I was thinking to try this today, but I think I'll leave it until the guitar's finished and try stringing it up first. I mean, I can always take the neck off and clamp some relief into it at a later date, right? The body isn't made yet anyway. Thanks for the input fellas! DJ

Thanks for your reply Boggs! So, is the only way out of this that I must pull the frets out, sand in some relief and re-fret? DJ

Hello all! Well, I just installed all my frets, checked the level, and it's backbowed! I sanded it perfectly flat before fretting. It has a one-way truss rod, which is already slackened, and would only bend it worse anyway! Please tell me there's a solution to this! Help! Will the string tension pull it level enough??? (Neck is a 3-ply laminate of maple around bubinga, ebony fingerboard, angled headstock, 7 string guitar. Also, no neck angle at body join, recessed tunomatic bridge, if this helps!) Will the extra tension generated by the 7th string help? I like a really flat neck under tension anyway, but I'm worried that I won't be able to level the frets enough to counteract the backbow at present. Had a wee search here for solutions, but didn't find what I'm after. Thanks, DJ

Hi all, Firstly I'll point out that I'm in the UK, and this only applies in the UK. So, I'm thinking about offering my guitar repair skills to the general public. I want to work from home, part-time (on an as-and-when basis) without giving up my regular day job. I would like to know where I stand legally on this. If I charge people for work do I need to be VAT-registered? Do I need to be a sole-trader, or a company or anything?? I want to be totally upfront and above board, pay any relevant taxes, the whole lot! I know NOTHING about this though......... Does anyone else here do this? How does it all work? I'm gonna go and seek some free independant legal advice if possible too, but I thought I'd ask around here as well! Really appreciate any feedback! Thanks, DJ

Thanks for all your suggestions guys! Between all the things suggested I feel confident I can do this properly now. Mattia: that's an awesome inlay! Is that done by hand or CNC? (I have to admit mine's CNC- I cheated!) BTW - with fretting through inlays as wide as those in your photo, I take it you've never had a problem with the fret not gripping the inlay enough to stay properly seated in the slot? Just curious......... Thanks, DJ

Hi all! I'm underway fretting my first neck. I have a mother of pearl inlay at the 12th fret which (deliberately!) expands past the 11th and 12th frets. It's a technique I have seen several times before, and really liked (Ibanez K7, Vai's Tree Of Life, Dean Dime razor etc etc) Here's a photo of mine to illustrate my issue: So, when thinking about installing the 11th and 12th frets, my theory is that it would be a bad idea to leave the barbs on the fret tangs where they touch the mother of pearl??? The fretboard is ebony BTW. I've been hammering in the frets so far, but I think if I hammer in these two frets it will crack or damage the MOP. Regarding suitable solutions then, here's a couple of options I'm considering- I could "de-barb" the 11th and 12th frets where they touch the MOP (that way the remaining barbs would hold the fret in place) This is why the fret in the photo has black marks on the tang - that's where it touches the MOP! or I could widen the fret slots and clamp'n'glue those two frets into place. Just looking for some guidance here! Anyone had the same issue before? (Does the inlay look OK?) Thanks, DJ

I don't know if its the "best" way, but you can fill using multiple coats of Tru Oil. The filling on this mahogany / maple is Tru Oil http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g94/quar...close1-1024.jpg Birchwood Casey does sell a grain filler to use with their Tru Oil. I ordered some off their web site for a walnut project I'm starting and will put it to the test. I'm in the UK, btw. What about this stuff? - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-...7QQcmdZViewItem

Hmmm.........I'm at exactly this stage as well! So I'm very keen to hop on board this one. OK, everything I've read here so far makes sense and sounds good. My neck is a 3-ply laminate of maple and bubinga. At the moment all the wood is bare and untreated, just sanded. The maple is a very tight grain, and should pose no problems. However, the bubinga has quite an "open" grain, which I'm sure will need filling - what's the best way to achieve this? Bearing I mind I will likely want to oil the neck to a finish. I've read on this site about using thinned epoxy as a grain filler - any comments guys? How do you do that? Is it really suitable? etc etc Thank y'all.