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Rustoleum Lacquer???


johntbyrne

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Thanks Brian,

You think the running would be a problem only in the final coat? I assume thin coats could be used till then. Wonder if you could go thin coats only? Did it polish out good/similar to nitro?

With this said and given your answer I'll probably go with reranch nitro spray can but sure would be nice to use something local ... running short, not a problem just drive on over, you get the pic.

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Well I'm not too hip on paint chemistry, but I have shot a lot of different products. Nitro is 'old' style, it dries fast for easy build up of coats. It's weakness was durability, it got dark (ambered) and would eventually check (crack). It got 'better' when acrylic lacquer was made. It's considered 'old' now and getting hard to find for guys like me who love working with lacquer kandies and solids. Huge improvements came with the polyester finishes...thick build (depth) high gloss and tough with no yellowing. Reranch is probably one of the few places you'll find nitro (in colors)...I bought a gallon of clear for my necks and relic projects..Reranch won't ship overseas to me... :D Almost all lacquers (rattle can and cans) you find in auto parts and hardware stores will be acrylic...nothing wrong, still works the same. I never used Rustoleum except for metal painting...must be something about the name B)...if you're not fanatical about it being 'nitro' acrylic lacquer will be fine. Try calling auto parts stores to see if they carry it...NAPA had the Martin Senor brand which is pro quality automotive paint...now they have their own Tech line which I use their silver base for my kandy and flake jobs...good luck.

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Thanks BT,

I've been reading more and more and am starting to learn. I think now that I would rather use the acrylic. I just said Nitro before because that is what I had read about and not read more. Just starting to research this part of the project. I'll check out NAPA, thanks for the hint. Think I'll get some and do some trial painting ... and staining ..

Thanks for everyone's help

John

BTW, read the pinned threads in this forum, wow what great stuff

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Visited Walley World again. There are several different lacquors actually in the store. The Rustoleum of course, one by I think it was Deaf in the paint section. and another in automotive. Can't remember brand (duh). This one and only this one stated that it is acrylic lacquor. Oh yea, they had yet another brand in the discontinued section. Yep, 4 brands in one store.

I suspect most automotive parts stores will have some too. Home Depot sells the Rustoleum. I may get a can of each and do some testing. Prices are great, most expensive was just over $4/can and no shipping. Cheapest was just over $2. One had a warning that it contained ether. Any idea what type of lacquor this would make it?

I think a poll is in order. If you use spray cans where do you get it and what is it?

Thanks

John

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Here's my early 70's Musicmaster bass. I had stripped it's original paint off back then (douh) and brushed varathane on. It stayed that way until last year. My bike buddy had some old cans of Schwinn lacquer I've never seen...it looked retro and it was called Kool Green. I sanded the varathane ( paint remover would'nt budge this old stuff), shot primer, sanded and shot the Kool Green. Using NAPA's clear spray lacquer, I shot a clearcoat. Did a quick sand and buff and it looked real good. This is my only guitar done with rattle cans...downside, it chips real easily. It looks like a mild relic which I don't mind. So, I guess what I'm saying is you can get a good looking paint job with spray paint, but I prefer a spray gun and good paint. Lacquer is very forgiving...you run it, sand and reshoot. I let a coat 'flash dry' a few minutes and shoot the next..no need to let it dry and sand and recoat. Fast build up. Always spray in a ventilated area and wear a paint respirator...even with rattle cans. If you smell fumes, adjust your mask.

Musicmaster bass

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Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars

Duplicolor is the automotive stuff. Wallyworld has it cheapest I found. Deft also makes a clear gloss that is durable, and thin. Your cabinets in your kitchen probably have deft semi gloss (satin) on them. I like the deft for satin finishes, and either deft gloss or duplicolor for the high gloss stuff. Duplicolor is the same as Fender uses...well they use PPG...auto paint is auto paint for the most part.

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Shorter to type yes but not near as much fun to say :DB)

Bought a can of Duplicolor lacquer. Used a piece of unsealed scrap pine (yes you heard me right, hey all I had scrap). Took 3 thin coats to seal the wood. Then started building up. I put on 4 coats, 3 light and last very thick. Sanded with course paper (again all I had at the moment, I think 120). Final coat went on good. There are some sand marks as expected but the unpolished finish is good. I can see some shine and some reflection. It is very smooth to the touch. I think this will work jusssst fine. Did have one run before final coat and it sanded out fine too. I'll let it cure a week and then polish to see what happens but so far I think I have the winner.

BTW, took the wood to work today to show a friend. My truck smells like a new guitar. :D

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