black_labb

very nice. love the body. find the neck a bit busy, but that opinion could easily change once its on the instrument.

have you thought of a strat style jack (the boat shaped ones) but mounted on the side of the guitar, so the lead comes out at an angle? could work well on the flat bottom piece. where are your knobs and the rest of the control cavity going to be? i've made a jack that was in the control cavity, and a hole in the body where the plug was pushed in. if your cavity will be close to the edge, that could be a consideration. keep in mind that it will limit you to leads that fit into the hole (angled leads ususally wont, and some have larger than usual heads)

very nice work. good to see this project finally coming together.

thanks erik. homemade pups are quick to make and alot cheaper than reasonable bought ones. they're also quite easy to get set up for making. turn a small drill press on its side, or a hand drill. it isnt completely necessary to even count the turns if you just fill up the bobbin and check the resistance. humbuckers dont need to be perfect (often people purposely have coils mismatched a bit).

looks good. like the control plate, suits the body shape well and is still simple

yes you do. good place for alot of things timber.

i agree, pickups arent hard to make. its not hard to get them to sound good either. nailing specific tones can be an issue sometimes, but thats where things get interesting and challenging. another thing i don't think there is enough of is simple switches to get different sounds. strats and tele's could really benefit from series/paralell switches. they can really add a lot to the sound, getting them similar to a humbucker. all it takes is a simple dpdt switch (or a push pull pot)

took some straight on photos. flash made some things look a bit wierd (reflections in pup covers, really dull looking fingerboard) but it shows the shape better, without it looking so wide

sure did, every bit came from anagote timbers in marrickville.

i was looking at that after posting the pics up, thought maybe i had made a mistake resizing it in paint before i realised. the body isnt that wide, its just the angle i took the photos from. i'll take some more photos to get a better perspective thanks. wasnt really the plan to go so far, but i got going with the spokeshave and scraper until it seemed perfect. i'm really happy with the look and feel of the carve.

thanks they're zebrano tops, ng rosewood bases, but stained red like the fret markers. the zebrano figure didnt come through as well through the stain as it did on the fretboard, so it just looks red really.

havent been around project guitar much recently. found that i got into a habit of spending too much time reading things and not enough doing things (i would check way too frequently really). i'll see if i can come back and check things more moderately this time. here is the bass that i've just finished (actually i need to put a finish on the truss rod cover, but otherwise its all ready) have been using the bass for band without a finish and a single bridge pup. had a couple weeks off band as the drummer had more work duties temporarily, so i finished it (its my only bass, so i wasnt able to use another while finishing it). i made the pups and truss rods myself. was originally going to have a simple preamp, but changed my mind and went with passive electronics, and rewound the pups to suit. some details 33" scale, 22 frets neck is a 1pc, but 5 piece laminate (new guinea rosewood, wenge, zebrano, wenge, ng rosewood). fillet strip is american walnut body wings are also ng rosewood. jumbo frets danish oiled (aside from the pup covers, which are laquered) instrument is wired like a jazz bass (vol neck, vol bridge tone) but with a series/paralell and a phase switch. used 500k vol pots, and a 1M tone pot with a 47pf cap. i use 1M tone pots almost exclusively, as they are more versatile than lower values (they act a variable resistors, so they can be turned down a bit to get the equivalent effect of a 500 or 250k pot on full. the instrument sounds great. the bridge gives a great middy sound, the neck gives a nice clean and warm sound and blending them can get quite a few great tones. the series position gives a very fat, full and somewhat loose sound (like a p bass, but maybe fuller). the use of the bridge pup makes it not muddy, but still sounds very fat with lots of low mids. used that all of band practice, and everyone loved the sound(use a pick for band, as we are a trio where the guitar uses a slide almost exclusively, and the bass fills out more of the mids that a guitar usually would). im sure i'll use the other settings more when i am playing fingerstyle. i thought i really liked the sound before i rewound the pups and wired up the bass, but now i am absolutely stunned with how well it sounds. after shielding it it is silent, with a tiny bit of hum when on a single pup (they are set up to cancel hum when they are equal, like a humbucker) the instrument plays very well. it has a small headstock and long upper horn, making the balance perfect. makes my friends squier p feel like a neck diver. the neck is thick and round. has the same width as a p neck, but is rounder. i prefer a rounder neck, and after playing this it makes my friends squier p feel too thin and uncomfortable due to the thinness. i love a fat neck. action is fairly high. just the way i like it (i know im somewhat of a rare breed with my like for really thick necks and high action, but this one is for me). some pics http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/bla...basstopside.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/bla...sbottomside.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/bla...ssneckfront.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/bla...sbackofneck.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/bla...bb/basspups.jpg

its just the baffle (and rear) that is 1/2 " i assume the rest is 3/4" pine (?). 1/2" ply for the baffle seems a bit thin to me for a 4x10, unless you have some bracing down the middle of the baffle. if you dont have the bracing it wont be a problem, just wont have quite the same punch that a sealed 4x10 would normally have, but im sure it has plenty considering it has 10" speakers in a sealed cab what speakers are in there? hows it sound? i've started making a 2x10 that is very rough (i expect the thing to get thrashed over time) made it entirely from 19mm pine and its an open backed design. works well for me.

ill be interested in your findings, seems like an in interesting timber to use.

like the look of it, nice timbers too. im interested in the black bean, how have you found it so far? did you hear about it being used, or just wanted to give it a try? keep us updated