86barettaguy

I've used Catia V5 for my virtual guitar. CAD is just a tool (I know, I use it every day) and you have to know what you are aiming to do and figure it all out. The computer is not going to do any work for you, it's just going to help you visualize it all so you can avoid making too many obvious mistakes.

I will always need more information, tips and tricks on the black art of carving a neck profile Actually, everything about neck-making seems a major mystery to me

drawings for rev. 01 sent to Dean and kpcrash

somehow I cannot seem to get in contact with people in the industry (though I did get a 2D igs from Gotoh). And I do think the local guitar store would ban me if I started taking guitars apart to measure the little things I did get the pics of the strat blueprints (body and neck) which seem to be floating around and they seem to verify the measurements I got from my main guitar (which is not a strat btw). A pic of the latest CAD progress can be found over at my blog (iguitarer.blogspot.com). Latest updates included a tighter neck pocket, slightly revised headstock (which is sort of pointless as the neck is only there for reference anyway, I modelled it as an exercise to avoid getting too rusty), revised floyd cavity depths and a control cavity (just because, it's really not a proper design). Just leave a comment there if you want a pdf copy of the drawings to have a look at *edit to add: Dean, NotYou and kpcrash: I'll do what I can to get you pdf drawings. A3 format (based on my assumption that most people can't print A2 and larger). *edit again: don't have your email adresses, any suggestion on how I get the files to you? shoot me a PM

This fall, I spent some time making CAD models based on one of my guitars and then thought maybe I should make some drawings so I could get to actually building a guitar. Now I've come to a point where the models/drawings need to be verified and I figured that I would see if I could get my fellow guitarers to help me out. In exchange for having the drawings verified and getting feedback on various improvements (drawing improvements as well as design improvements) as well as pictures of started, on-going and completed projects I would supply the drawings for free. So far, no luck. Is there any interest around here or am I beating a dead horse?

I don't think Hiscock's book goes into any detail on how to install a floyd rose trem (or any other bridge, apart from telling us to mind the scale length). If you can't print the templates from floydrose.com to scale then just get a ruler and make a drawing based on the given measurements. Then check the other info on floydrose.com and if you can't figure out the approximate position of the pivot posts, just put your tools away and ask someone to help you.

while much is written about the mainstream materials for solid guitars like maple, alder, poplar and mahogany, I find it hard to find information on the less orthodox materials such as birch, pine etc. What materials would be suited for what components and what effect should they be expected to have on tone? I'm sure the information is available on the net, I just haven't been able to find it...

sorry for bringing an old topic up to the top, but this is one of my pet peeves and I've just seen it said too many times in one week now. A floyd, or any other floating trem such as the fender-style synchronized tremolo, is either: A: Floating or B: non-floating (blocked) There is no such thing as a semi-floating trem, and therefore there is no such thing as a full-floating trem. The recessed rout does one thing: it allows the trem to be mounted lower. That's it. The benefit of this is that you can use the trem to raise pitch without raising the trem to an uncomfortable position (the non-recessed rout allows you to raise pitch, but the more you want to raise pitch, the higher off the body the trem needs to be and the more of a neck angle you will need).

I'm not sure about these single-locking licensed floyds. are they really as stable as a double-locking design? no chance of the ball-ends moving around and getting stuck as you use the trem? I guess if you used fender speed-bullets or whatever they call them it should work fine. I'd still prefer getting a used OFR or Edge trem (or Gotoh licensed floyd). They look and play great and will stand up to some serious abuse.

except of course that I would be more interested in going from a straight string-pull to a kramer-style pointy-head. on a neck-through. in reality, I won't do it because I lack both skill and money, but it's still interesting...

just wondering if it's doable. replacing a headstock that is. anyone done it?

so, are we getting any update on this project?

check musicyo.com from time to time to see if they have any steinberger parts. they used to have the r-trem, s-trem and transtrem for sale...

you make me want to have a go at my fr404... now that I won't have money to actually build a guitar for quite a while, I've been thinking of some refinishing and general modding... anyway, I think you're supposed to sand between every coat you apply, but I don't know what grade paper you should be using... it's looking nice

fender does a contoured heel which is pretty nice. it's also pretty easy to contour a normal strat heel this way. check pics of HM Strats and Sambora signatures (the MIA and MIJ ones) to see what it looks like. the heel is still there, and it's still blocky, but at least it's comfier... personally, I don't find the strat heel all that annoying these days...