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Fagerholm

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Fagerholm last won the day on September 15 2013

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About Fagerholm

  • Birthday 04/27/1988

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  • Location
    Finland
  • Interests
    Instruments: electric guitars, kanteles
    Woodworking
    Lifetime demo project on audio cassette: BM/ambient

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  1. Fagerholm
    Do you mean peg head volute? When it comes to me, I have learned to prefer square shaped neck profiles. They have so much higher area moment of inertia. Seriously, it would be funny to desing 100% civil engineer made guitar. There would be H-profile steelbeam (S355J2H) as neck. Structurally perfect, designed lifetime 100 years, usability none. A quick mock-up of finishing: I try not to spray it with clear coat, but it still needs some paint job. Don't yet how I work this out, but anyhow it can't be nice and shiny!
  2. Fagerholm
    And let's get into the post-nuclear technolgy! I'm not sure yet about guitars electronics, but there's going to be things like: - basic H+H wiring, 3-way switch + VOL + TONE - 2 x 9V-battery, 9V power jack - pre-amp, distortion effect, bass/treble boost - Equalizer - LED circuits, VU-meter, sound to light unit, frequency based light organ etc. - wild card A mass of components to be creative. Spotted these components, which would look badass, when mounted in guitar. Of course post-nuclear techology is far too devastating in primitive hands -> ignition key is necessary! And slide-pot would be something different. And if the ignition key wasn't weird enough, I'm going to represent you Geiger-Muller Counter (indicades beta and gamma rays)! Ready to have a gig in Chernobyl, could a guitar be anymore post-nuclear? This kit was quite expensive, but the basic components cost only few euros. Second option is 10 LED VU-meter, not sure, if guitar output voltage is high enough for this. This may need pre-amp to work, and that won't be a problem. Upper one is another VU-meter. Circuit below is sound-to-light-unit, which is equipped with super sensible microphone and adjust pot. 4 LEDs flashes of almost every sound. This would look like killer beneath guitar's round aluminium panel or in humbucker holes. Gives a broken tube radio expression. This is a test bench for pre-amps and effects. Just plug the effect's four conductors into IC-socket and test it out like an ordinary pedal.
  3. Fagerholm
    The low horn has cavity for two 9-V batteries, tremolo-chamber will be left open.
  4. Fagerholm
    Guitar and various junk. And here it (Mk2: The Bunker) is again.
  5. Fagerholm
    Because this topic has been advertised to contain post-nuclear junk, I started to forge some props. Guitar will have brass fittings in it's corners. I just cut strips from brass sheet with angle grinder, grinded & sanded every sharps edge and hammered surfaces into dents. Shiny brass was still too fancy looking, and I just didn't have time to wait for the next nuclear fallout so I mixed a paste from ash & water. This alkaline mess corroded the brass parts in only few hours. I had to make various mixtures, since it didn't work every time, but conifer and paper ash had the made the best results. Now I have to imagine, how the chome hardware (Floyd rose, knobs, tuners) should be treated to get a worn look into them. The best idea so far is tho blast them with glass bullets. The complete set of corroded brass fittings. Drilled two jack holes for output and 9V power supply. Output jack and power supply in the same plate. Always like to brush my teeth while building guitars.
  6. Fagerholm
    Inlays Special tool to drill side marks in one sharp line. FB radiused into 12" with 80 grid. Some inlays got small gaps and holes, which were re-filled with epoxy-eben paste. Neck joint.
  7. Fagerholm
    At this point the project had gone into far too show off. The guitar was supposed to give a harsh impression of post-nuclear technology, but this just wasn't it with it's fancy wood bindings etc. So I tossed it out of my sight and began with a new and more interesting one... Mysterious Post-Nuclear Guitar Mk2: The Bunker ... which was constructed mainly in the same way as it's predecessor. Tested a new method, when glued the top & bottom. Of course I used clamps too, the point was just to achieve tight glueline on edges since there won't be binding in this one. Would work better, if screws were changed into bolts & washers. Fretboard binding glued in old fashion way.
  8. Fagerholm
    As promised, I'm posting some progress from last spring & summer. Bolt marks copied into neck. Inserts (stainless M5) installed. Two bolts on top. 6 bolts from back, should be tight enough. I decided to glue fretboard binding after glueing an ebony fretboard, seemed to be a simple trick just route the binding slots afterwards. This method proved to be an absolutely failure since binding just didn't attached into slot. I used acetone-binding paste and even epoxy, but neither didn't work. Bindings just kept peeling off. I had a discussion with local luthier, but he didn't have any helpfull answers either. Now I should clean the slots again, and have a second run with acetone, but I'm totally out of cream binding. I could also use titebond & maple strips, but I rather prefer the plastic binding as they stay cleaner and are harder. Never glue bindings afterwards into a fretboard again. Guitar before fretboard bindings peeled again.
  9. Fagerholm
    Hi! I'm continuing my "2 posts per year" topic again. And like always my written English is rusty as my old post-nuclear chainsaw. Hopefully I haven't let anybody down by infrequent topic updating, but this time something totally dramatic occurred during last summer. Have to say - 2013 has been the shittiest year ever. In July I had negotiated 6 weeks of vacation to just finish atleast three builds, but my wife tought otherwise and left me without a slightest warning. She never gave any reason - just left, shattered everything in my life and wiped her ass by my holiday. Took also my super-mutant dogling with her in addition. I gues the she got bored living in Nuclear Winter Zone. Haha, but seriously last months have been ultimately debressive. Now I have managed to somehow get my head in one piece again and started to return in my researches with guitar and electronics. I'm trying to post some progress about the Mysterious Post Nuclear Guitar(s) during this weekend. For now I'm apologising and giving my personal Instrument Schematic Database into free distributing: http://ffholm.com/prints.html Teaser. Also noticed that some of posted pics have disappeared into bit-space, because I lost one of my domains. I repost some of the latest pics. -FFHolm
  10. Fagerholm
    In fact the centerline is in bass side, this is a great idea as always. Out of topic: What advantages can piezo PU give? I have been thinking maybe some inbuild Tube Screamer or Marshall shredmaster mod. Also delay would be nice, but I read it should't be wired before distortion. http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/Dread1.GIF http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/Dread2.GIF I have also purchased a couple of different VU-meter kits if some of them would work in guitar.
  11. Fagerholm
    Trimmed neck tenon route. Body was carved in the traditional way. There was also flying panther with a magician, who conjured some cavity covers for me.
  12. Fagerholm
    Excess fretboard cut. Fretboard trimmed into neck edges by router. Measuring neck pocket. Neck angle (0,5 deg) routed into tenon. Tight fit! The body looks tiny, but my hands are actually huge + there's some perspective thing.
  13. Fagerholm
    At this point I discovered something in neck work that crossed my tolerance. It's just so stupid, I should say nothing and pretend like it never happened. At some point I had drawn fretboard edgelines not-so-carefully on the neck plank. After cutting the sides I realized that the neck's centerline was 1,5mm UNCENTERED. This means that walnut stripes are 1,5mm more on the other side -> the other maple stripe is 3mm narrower than the other. Just enough to be seen in finished instrument and I wouldn't tolerate this in my works. So there wansn't really any other option than build a new one. The first neck will be hidden and stored somewhere, if there's ever any use for it. The build of neck #2 wasn't documented, but all went exactly like in the first one. Ba dum tssshhh 3 days later: Thickenssing the peghead #2. How the neck edges were straightened by router. Neck #2 with bubinga stripes. No one will ever notice if there was anything... Truss rod oiled & sealed into it's place, pre-slotted ebony fretboard waiting to be glued. Foam rubber between fretboard and clamps divides pressure evenly. Clamps should be tightened simultaneously or foam will warp the neck.
  14. Fagerholm
    Screw attachments in the place of tuner holes. Maple peghed bindings glued. After little trimming. Both sides straightened with router and a firm limiter.
  15. Fagerholm
    Neck straightening in router table (careful measuring needed). Trussrod slot routed. Peghead thicknessing. Peghed binding slots routed. Template & plan.
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