Jump to content
Entry in the May 2024 Guitar of the Month contest is now open ×

Fagerholm

Established Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    62

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Fagerholm

  1. Fagerholm
    Do you mean peg head volute? When it comes to me, I have learned to prefer square shaped neck profiles. They have so much higher area moment of inertia. Seriously, it would be funny to desing 100% civil engineer made guitar. There would be H-profile steelbeam (S355J2H) as neck. Structurally perfect, designed lifetime 100 years, usability none. A quick mock-up of finishing: I try not to spray it with clear coat, but it still needs some paint job. Don't yet how I work this out, but anyhow it can't be nice and shiny!
  2. Fagerholm
    And let's get into the post-nuclear technolgy! I'm not sure yet about guitars electronics, but there's going to be things like: - basic H+H wiring, 3-way switch + VOL + TONE - 2 x 9V-battery, 9V power jack - pre-amp, distortion effect, bass/treble boost - Equalizer - LED circuits, VU-meter, sound to light unit, frequency based light organ etc. - wild card A mass of components to be creative. Spotted these components, which would look badass, when mounted in guitar. Of course post-nuclear techology is far too devastating in primitive hands -> ignition key is necessary! And slide-pot would be something different. And if the ignition key wasn't weird enough, I'm going to represent you Geiger-Muller Counter (indicades beta and gamma rays)! Ready to have a gig in Chernobyl, could a guitar be anymore post-nuclear? This kit was quite expensive, but the basic components cost only few euros. Second option is 10 LED VU-meter, not sure, if guitar output voltage is high enough for this. This may need pre-amp to work, and that won't be a problem. Upper one is another VU-meter. Circuit below is sound-to-light-unit, which is equipped with super sensible microphone and adjust pot. 4 LEDs flashes of almost every sound. This would look like killer beneath guitar's round aluminium panel or in humbucker holes. Gives a broken tube radio expression. This is a test bench for pre-amps and effects. Just plug the effect's four conductors into IC-socket and test it out like an ordinary pedal.
  3. Fagerholm
    The low horn has cavity for two 9-V batteries, tremolo-chamber will be left open.
  4. Fagerholm
    Guitar and various junk. And here it (Mk2: The Bunker) is again.
  5. Fagerholm
    Because this topic has been advertised to contain post-nuclear junk, I started to forge some props. Guitar will have brass fittings in it's corners. I just cut strips from brass sheet with angle grinder, grinded & sanded every sharps edge and hammered surfaces into dents. Shiny brass was still too fancy looking, and I just didn't have time to wait for the next nuclear fallout so I mixed a paste from ash & water. This alkaline mess corroded the brass parts in only few hours. I had to make various mixtures, since it didn't work every time, but conifer and paper ash had the made the best results. Now I have to imagine, how the chome hardware (Floyd rose, knobs, tuners) should be treated to get a worn look into them. The best idea so far is tho blast them with glass bullets. The complete set of corroded brass fittings. Drilled two jack holes for output and 9V power supply. Output jack and power supply in the same plate. Always like to brush my teeth while building guitars.
  6. Fagerholm
    Inlays Special tool to drill side marks in one sharp line. FB radiused into 12" with 80 grid. Some inlays got small gaps and holes, which were re-filled with epoxy-eben paste. Neck joint.
  7. Fagerholm
    At this point the project had gone into far too show off. The guitar was supposed to give a harsh impression of post-nuclear technology, but this just wasn't it with it's fancy wood bindings etc. So I tossed it out of my sight and began with a new and more interesting one... Mysterious Post-Nuclear Guitar Mk2: The Bunker ... which was constructed mainly in the same way as it's predecessor. Tested a new method, when glued the top & bottom. Of course I used clamps too, the point was just to achieve tight glueline on edges since there won't be binding in this one. Would work better, if screws were changed into bolts & washers. Fretboard binding glued in old fashion way.
  8. Fagerholm
    As promised, I'm posting some progress from last spring & summer. Bolt marks copied into neck. Inserts (stainless M5) installed. Two bolts on top. 6 bolts from back, should be tight enough. I decided to glue fretboard binding after glueing an ebony fretboard, seemed to be a simple trick just route the binding slots afterwards. This method proved to be an absolutely failure since binding just didn't attached into slot. I used acetone-binding paste and even epoxy, but neither didn't work. Bindings just kept peeling off. I had a discussion with local luthier, but he didn't have any helpfull answers either. Now I should clean the slots again, and have a second run with acetone, but I'm totally out of cream binding. I could also use titebond & maple strips, but I rather prefer the plastic binding as they stay cleaner and are harder. Never glue bindings afterwards into a fretboard again. Guitar before fretboard bindings peeled again.
  9. Fagerholm
    Hi! I'm continuing my "2 posts per year" topic again. And like always my written English is rusty as my old post-nuclear chainsaw. Hopefully I haven't let anybody down by infrequent topic updating, but this time something totally dramatic occurred during last summer. Have to say - 2013 has been the shittiest year ever. In July I had negotiated 6 weeks of vacation to just finish atleast three builds, but my wife tought otherwise and left me without a slightest warning. She never gave any reason - just left, shattered everything in my life and wiped her ass by my holiday. Took also my super-mutant dogling with her in addition. I gues the she got bored living in Nuclear Winter Zone. Haha, but seriously last months have been ultimately debressive. Now I have managed to somehow get my head in one piece again and started to return in my researches with guitar and electronics. I'm trying to post some progress about the Mysterious Post Nuclear Guitar(s) during this weekend. For now I'm apologising and giving my personal Instrument Schematic Database into free distributing: http://ffholm.com/prints.html Teaser. Also noticed that some of posted pics have disappeared into bit-space, because I lost one of my domains. I repost some of the latest pics. -FFHolm
  10. Fagerholm
    In fact the centerline is in bass side, this is a great idea as always. Out of topic: What advantages can piezo PU give? I have been thinking maybe some inbuild Tube Screamer or Marshall shredmaster mod. Also delay would be nice, but I read it should't be wired before distortion. http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/Dread1.GIF http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/Dread2.GIF I have also purchased a couple of different VU-meter kits if some of them would work in guitar.
  11. Fagerholm
    Trimmed neck tenon route. Body was carved in the traditional way. There was also flying panther with a magician, who conjured some cavity covers for me.
  12. Fagerholm
    Excess fretboard cut. Fretboard trimmed into neck edges by router. Measuring neck pocket. Neck angle (0,5 deg) routed into tenon. Tight fit! The body looks tiny, but my hands are actually huge + there's some perspective thing.
  13. Fagerholm
    At this point I discovered something in neck work that crossed my tolerance. It's just so stupid, I should say nothing and pretend like it never happened. At some point I had drawn fretboard edgelines not-so-carefully on the neck plank. After cutting the sides I realized that the neck's centerline was 1,5mm UNCENTERED. This means that walnut stripes are 1,5mm more on the other side -> the other maple stripe is 3mm narrower than the other. Just enough to be seen in finished instrument and I wouldn't tolerate this in my works. So there wansn't really any other option than build a new one. The first neck will be hidden and stored somewhere, if there's ever any use for it. The build of neck #2 wasn't documented, but all went exactly like in the first one. Ba dum tssshhh 3 days later: Thickenssing the peghead #2. How the neck edges were straightened by router. Neck #2 with bubinga stripes. No one will ever notice if there was anything... Truss rod oiled & sealed into it's place, pre-slotted ebony fretboard waiting to be glued. Foam rubber between fretboard and clamps divides pressure evenly. Clamps should be tightened simultaneously or foam will warp the neck.
  14. Fagerholm
    Screw attachments in the place of tuner holes. Maple peghed bindings glued. After little trimming. Both sides straightened with router and a firm limiter.
  15. Fagerholm
    Neck straightening in router table (careful measuring needed). Trussrod slot routed. Peghead thicknessing. Peghed binding slots routed. Template & plan.
  16. Fagerholm
    Phew, just finished my cake. Let the thread be continued again. A quick reply to last week's conversation: *Router should really be used with extra caution as we all know. I used to do a lot of damage with it (fortunately only to things I was working), before it had surprized me in every way. On the other hand it's endless add-on tools and easy-to-sand result make it my favourite powertool. *The chamber of secrets has already cost me 300€ (=400$). Some electronics are still missing, hopefully I get it all working. *Fallout-series as well as other Black Isle products are definitely the top of PC games ever done. They have consumed a notable amount of my life since late 90's. My wife would be angry of that unless she wasn't playing The Elder Scrolls. *No hijackers seen or offense taken. A little anarchy and chaos are only essential elements in nuclear wasteland! *BTW Post nuclear routers are certainly powered by overcharged microfusion cells. And back to the quest then: Last two days I have been fighting with plastic fretboard binding and my anger against those has risen into a new level. I would have used maple binding in fretboard, but rejected the idea since plastic is harder and doesn't need finishing. At the same time maple would be easily glued by Titebond and costs nothing. Question #1: Does maple binding in ebony fretboard require some finishing on top side or will it tun to dirty? Vertical sides are lacquered with the neck. Can't remenber what I was going to show next, but the neck process haven't been posted before Neckwoods aligned by toothpicks -> no messing while glueing & clamping. Scarf joint cutting in router table. Scarf joint ready to be glued. Question #2: I read from another forum that scarf jointed necks like this (peghead glued between neck & fretboad) may develop a small convex angle around the 3th or 4th fret when neck woods shrink in time. = peghead and neck shrink in different directions. Is this a real problem if people are using properly dried woods?
  17. Fagerholm
    Glueing the wood binding was absolutely slow process. After one side was glued and dried the next ones were routed and strips bent & glued. Two tightest curves had to be done in multiple parts. Job done! It was still easier than plastic-acetone fight. Mysterious chamber... Binding was routed to level -8mm measured from the top and lower parts & sides were shaped. This will be enough for the day, i'm going to get some cake. And by cake I mean... It found from the frozen ruins of local suburb. Hope you are OK with it.
  18. Fagerholm
    And next in order we will enjoy the show of binding aka. pain in the ass. I'm completely consumed with plastic bindings and messing with acetone paste so this time I'm going with 100% natural juniper strips. Juniper branch, one side planed. In nuclear winter zone we don't have table saws. Good ol' circular combined with suspicious looking support will do the trick as well! Seriously, keep your fingers away or let the neighbour do the work. Strips were planed into 3,5mm thickness. 3x10mm strips. Post nuclear bending setup. If these conditions aren't primitive enough, then nothing is! And after 10 broken srips later the 1st is ready to be glued! Succeeded still quite nicely.
  19. Fagerholm
    Cable routes just in place! Tremolo chamber. Should probably be deepened just a little for Schaller Sure Claw. Electronics cavity under way.
  20. Fagerholm
    Router template attached by 2 screws in humbucker slots + clamped to table. First round routed. 2nd routing. Shape routed completely & excess wood drilled from slots. PU routing.
  21. Fagerholm
    Almoust forgot to show these self-made pro-quality prints . I have spent last 6 months in bridge engineering team, which offers me some natural benefits. I could also send some prints across Europe, if anyone has a need for customed plans. Maple heart being mounted under FR-tremolo. FR-stud are later drilled into hidden maple block. I'm not sure if anyone else does that, but I'm not taking any chances with these relatively soft tops. Maple heart routed even to top. Cabel routes are taped before messing with glue. Laminated body 24h after glueing.
  22. Fagerholm
    Top is excatly that "thrash wood" bought from local hardware store (Bauhaus). Cost 4€ per metre and already planed into 30mm thickness. Got some nice figures & flames and sounds great acoustically. For me birch is more trash wood than this. "Trash wood for thrash guitar." BTW:CAD plans for Finnish education and instrument building: http://www.ffholm.com/fi/prints_fi.html If someone finds anything interesting there I can translate them into English.
  23. Fagerholm
    Straightening the glue edges of walnut center plank and khaya wings were a little more tricky thing, but still succeeded nicely with router. The center block was evenly thicknessed in jointer, but kaya wings were pointing to ramdom directions. Bottom was thicknessed in parallel to the walnut center with small elevation strips below. Cabel routes done with a clamped limiter.
  24. Fagerholm
    Ok, let's see how epic this will end up! Project started last January/February by planing some random neck woods. At that time I intended to build a thinline, but it was postponed into the next year. So I and my super mutant dog set up workshop in the hearth of nuclear winter and began our quest. My planer has proven itself only to be applicable for thicknessing. There's no way possible to straighten edges for glue joints, which causes some head scratching with body planks. Plane is also too narrow to mill over 200mm broad planks, but this is probably a quite commond problem. These adversities have really trained my skills with router, because most of the planing/cutting/thicknessing/straightening jobs are done with it. (Sorry that I didn't dressed up for you, should have taken at least a gas mask.) The neck laminates were left to rest after cutting and thicknessing to check if they had inner tensions. If they are still straght after couple of weeks, they will be glued together. Maple/walnut/bubinga laminates were cut for two necks, both were used to this project afterwards. Meanwhile the Router Table Mark II was assembled. It consists of 21mm plywood plane and 30x50mm aluminium profiles. Quite simple, but this will be a common tool in this topic. Body will be laminated from a black alder top and walnut/sapele/khaya bottom. I like these natural looking wood with subtle flames, alder is anyway my favourite instrument wood as it's easy to carve, sand, dye & finish. As opposite ash has really deserved a place in my blacklist. Won't be working with it never agan. Straightening the glue joints by router and firm limiter was really a pice of cake. Glueing the top. Careful planing in the router table. Top is screw-attached to plane from humbucker slot. And that's what it should look like! Evenly thicknessed top.
  25. Fagerholm
    Greetings again! It's time to start again my annual guitar project with a new build thread. Firstly forgive my little rusty English, haven't been posting nothing since last autumn. Some of you may still remember my previous topic (EXP2012 :http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46432-explorer-2012/ ). The project is sill unfinished and has a big goal to be sprayed during the next summer. I actually had a spray gun in my hand already, when my boss called and canceled my vacation. Needless to say, a man who comes between the builder and his guitar is no more my boss. But without further babbling straight to the topic. EXP2013: The Stalker Project - A guitar pumped up with post nuclear techonogy - Inspiration has been drawn from Fallout & Stalker RPG series. Original idea was to assemble a very roughly cut (but still working) body and neck together, no finishes or sandings - as much use of angle grinder as possible. Hardware and knobs would have been gathered from old scraps. Guitar's point was to look like adapted tool builded in primitive conditions - a real thrash guitar ready for ultimate use. Most of this roughness disappeared quickly during the project and I found myself building far too fine instrument. Well, the conditions are still primitive, but the current goal is to give an impression of reverted post nuclear technology with blinking LEDs, meters and other details. I'm also going to try get some vintage look into hardware parts. The final content is still undefined, but I have purchased some crazy stuff to be mounted in this instrument. Not going to spoil the fun part yet, because it needs still some further investigations. If anyone has ideas of what the real Fallout-guitar should have, please let me know. Limits are only meant to be crossed. The project started with proper CAD plans. Yes, it's a customed explorer again - I'm just a real sucker for those. Body has multiple cavities for whatever I decide to mount into it. SPECS: Body -Alder top, ash bottom, maple hearth mounted under the bridge -Juniper binding Bolt-on neck - laminated maple & walnut/bubinga - scarf joint - bubinga veneer in KL headstock & maple binding - pre-slotted ebony fingerboard, cream binding - Custom inlays - Schaller R8 Locking saddle Worn out chrome hardware - Floyd rose, 37mm sustain block - Schaller STMG Bridge - Schaller PU frames - Grover Rotomatics / different pegs gathered Electronics - Seymour Duncan Invaders / Hot rodded set - 3-way in a horn, 1 vol, 1 tone - Maybe some effect (reverb/distortion) - Random post nuclear technology Lots of photos will be posted again. My current status with the guitar is installing neck inserts. ... To be continued later next week ...
×
×
  • Create New...