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Planning for my next project...need input please


Fan O' Zakk
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Alright, I'm gonna be stripping my Epi LP Custom and doing a custom paint job on it using automotive rattlecans, but there's a few nagging questions which I'd like to get cleared up before I put the guitar out of service temporarily...

1) Right now it's got multi-ply binding on it...does anyone know if it's binding and purfling, or a solid piece of binding? I want solid ivoroid binding, and assuming it's purfling and binding, would my best bet be to route the channel to a rectangular shape and use uber-fat binding, or use ivoroid purfling with binding?

1B) Does anyone have any clue what size of binding this guitar uses? The clear kinda screws up my measurements...

2) I've come upon a Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic laquer which seems to be a decent product...it dries up fairly hard, builds nicely, is cheap, and sprays rather well. Does this sound suitable for the job?

3) Should I go right down to bare wood to start the painting, or can I just sand down to the colour, thereby eliminting the need for a sealer and primer?

4) Will the aforementioned clear be compatible with standard automotive rattlecan paint?

5) How long should I let the clear cure before wetsanding?

6) Do you advocate hanging the guitar up for the clear coatst, or would I get better flow if it were laying down?

7) Does anybody have a clue as to what size of fretwire is used in these things from the factory?

8) I'm going to be re-painting the sides and back of the headstock, but not the front...what is the best way to blend the clear with the existing clear on the face of the headstock, assuming that I don't remove the finish?

9) Is a hairdryer/heat gun considered to be an acceptable method for heating the buinding/purfling as it's laid down?

Thanks a TON for all your input!

Edited by Fan O' Zakk
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2) I've come upon a Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic laquer which seems to be a decent product...it dries up fairly hard, builds nicely, is cheap, and sprays rather well. Does this sound suitable for the job?

What do you think yourself??? You're giving all arguments that make it very well suitable.

3) Should I go right down to bare wood to start the painting, or can I just sand down to the colour, thereby eliminting the need for a sealer and primer?

Sand it down smooth. You safe yourself work by not sanding to bare wood.

4) Will the aforementioned clear be compatible with standard automotive rattlecan paint?

It's an Acrylic clear......I guess and acrylic rattlecan paint will just work out fine.

5) How long should I let the clear cure before wetsanding?

2 months.

Most answers to these questions could have been found doing a search on this site.

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