Hitone Posted October 18, 2004 Report Posted October 18, 2004 I'm using Transtint's Black alcohol based dye on my headstock and I keep getting it on my inlay and the binding. Should I mask everything off or is there another way? Also, I'm prepping my body to be transparent orange. Do I need to mask off my binding on it? Quote
Myka Guitars Posted October 20, 2004 Report Posted October 20, 2004 Hitone, when I am going to dye an area and want to keep the binding, or the top, clear I will mask off the area to be dyed and seal the parts that I do not want dyed first. Then when you put the dye on it won't affect the sealed parts. Here is a pic of masked off binding: masking. Once masked I'll brush on lacquer to seal the binding before dyeing the back and top. I just finished dyeing a guitar that had clear on the back and neck with a fax maple binding. The top was to be blue. I masked off the top leaving 1/8" around the perimeter for the faux binding. Then I sprayed the guitar. Once sprayed I removed the masking and was able to dye the top without worrying about coloring the back, neck, or binding. Hope this helps. ~David Quote
Maiden69 Posted October 20, 2004 Report Posted October 20, 2004 Long time no see Myka. Have any Pics of this guitar! A link to it on your site maybe? Love your work. Also the way I did on my LP was close to Mykas way. I left some clear on the bionding then masked as close as I could to the edge, then once I finished painting the colors. In your case staining I scraped the paint from the binding carefuly making sure I stoped as soon as I saw the color of it showing thru. That way I knew I was on the clear coat and didn't scrape the binding! Also be careful with that stain and the raw binding becase I seen some bindings getting stained pretty bad with alcohol stains. Good luck Quote
Myka Guitars Posted October 20, 2004 Report Posted October 20, 2004 Long time no see Myka. No kidding! I have been busy lately (in the shop fortunately). I try to stop by here as much as I can. I don't have my computer in the shop anymore so that limits things a bit. I do have some pics of the latest guitar: guitar #023. I have also finished up 3 other instruments; a pair of hollowbodies: guitars #017 and 018 and a solidbody: guitar #016 It has been a good summer indeed (that is to say I had enough orders to avoid getting a real job). I have a few more in progress that will be done (hopefully) soon. All the pics are on my website in the work in progress section of the gallery page. It looks like things are getting busy around here too. There are a lot of new guitars and new memebers too. This is one of the busiest forums. It's great! Quote
82DeanZ Posted October 20, 2004 Report Posted October 20, 2004 Good lord, you're a wizard Mr. Myka! I love all of them, but #23 is exceptional. By the way, thank you for the advice on my birdseye neck blank. Then jointer straightened it right out. Thanks! Best Regards, Mike. Quote
Maiden69 Posted October 20, 2004 Report Posted October 20, 2004 Nice Myka! See that you changed the headstock inlay!!! I like both! Did you did the black rubbed and then blue on those! Nice touch on the double cut, I like a lot! P90's ain't my fav, but they don't look as clustered as 3 humb. Can you explain how to do those ferrules that go thru the body, or are they just extensions that you press into from the front? I have been trying to ge tthe ones that carvin use on their guitars, but no luch so far! I have been toying with the Idea of usin very small ribets, SSteel ones! Later Quote
Myka Guitars Posted October 20, 2004 Report Posted October 20, 2004 Mike, glad the advice worked out for you on that neck! Maiden69, the 3-P90 guitar had the black and blue treatment. #023 was just blue. Both were applied then sanded back then applied again for the depth of figuring to pop out. A great technique that allows for intense effects. I have been using an ebony (or rosewood) piece for the ferrels on these guitars. This way I can make them to my own spacings and not have the ferrels get too cluttered. Here you can see the block from the back of the guitar: ebony ferrel block. From the top I use brass, silver, or whatever. I want to get some longer pieces of stainless with flared ends that would go all the way through the guitar. I can't find it though. I cut all the inlays by hand so I do end up changing the logo inlay a lot. SOmetimes I go with the feel of the other inlays on the guitar and sometimes I just make a slight change in size or shape. The symbol was one my grandfather came up with and it is pretty versatile. You can change it and still recognize it. Quote
Maiden69 Posted October 20, 2004 Report Posted October 20, 2004 Nice to know that ! Iplan on using regular ferrules on the back, what I was looking for is for the front, I think that the idea I got of using the SS ribets will work. If not I will try to use some other stuff and then flare it with my brake line flaring kit! Thanks for the info! Quote
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