Jump to content

Drill Bit For String Through


Mickguard

Recommended Posts

I have two telecaster clones that I'm modifying for my Bocaster project.

Both have top mount bridges. Not an issue for one guitar--that's going to get a Bigsby eventually.

On the other, I'd like to drill it for string through (I already have the ferrules). (I also have a stand for the drill, so it'll be straight)

But where do you find a drill bit that's thin enough but long enough to go all the way through the body? Is there another technique for doing this? Should I start it with the drill then continue by hand?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't recall the size bit (it's sitting at home), but I definately drilled for string through on my first axe (I was using a Carvin fixed bridge). Don't recall the body thickness, but it's just as thick, if not thicker than the saga tele I slapped together over the summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

any hardware store will have them, Drill bits are usualy longer than 3" if you can get one of those drill bit kits I will strongly recomend it.. Be aware that some of this ferrules, like I just found out on my neck ones use some akward size, but for the string thru ferrules I don't see any special bit needed, just go to a store, and ask a sales person to please open the kit for you to see if it will have one that fits. I recomend making sure that the kit have one that is a tad bigger than the ferrule, to make for the paint build up. Once you finish painting you can use a soldering Iron to ease the ferrule in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have always used a standard length 1/8in bit (DeWalt in this case) on any Tele that I've built. If you are using a Tele type bridge, the string through holes will line up perfectly with the holes in the bridge.....that is if everything is correctly drilled. Drill carefully, slowly about 1/8-1/4in at a time so you can clear the chips and avoid clogging the bit. If it clogs, it will have a tendancy to wander and not give you a truehole to line up with you ferrules in the back......The length of the bit will just be enough to poke through the back of the body....A max of about 1.75in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you have to get a longer bit, just look around for one with a longer 'shank' thats what they call the lenght.

also, what kind of wood are you cutting, should set up your drill press to the speed of the wood your cutting, else you can severely f* up your bits and wood real quick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you have to get a longer bit, just look around for one with a longer 'shank' thats what they call the lenght.

also, what kind of wood are you cutting, should set up your drill press to the speed of the wood your cutting, else you can severely f* up your bits and wood real quick.

Okay, you guys are giving me some hope...

The body is alder --a very lightweight alder --does that mean I should drill more slowly?

Also, the bridge doesn't have the string through holes...yet. But that shouldn't be too difficult to correct...

I'm wondering if it's worth the bother...I mean, is there a huge effect on the sound of the guitar?

Personally, I prefer the look of the top mount, but that's a minor thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you'll be fine with alder. i was just cutting ebony last night with a forstner bit and she was smoking up a storm cause the rpms were to high. just watch out for woods like ebony, rosewoods, lignum, rock maple, ect. alder isnt that tough

well, for me, and im probably wrong, but i dont associate the insane sustain (not that a string thru will give you *that* much more) with a tele.

if you do decide to go string thru then take your time on drilling the holes, you can EASILY tell if they are off a 32nd. and you dont wanna mess something like that up. make plenty of test cuts on scrap before you do the body. just a bit of warning. i think litch did one and it looked pretty sketchy cause he rushed thru it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, look at around at some guys' string through jobs. They get real messy real quick. I've read about some templates that guys have made that gave them good holes, even with a hand drill. Use the search function. Also, I've seen long bits at places like Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc. etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've read about some templates that guys have made that gave them good holes, even with a hand drill.

I've seen some of those "messy" jobs...kind of ruins it. I mean, I already don't like the way those ferrules look...

But what about using the bridge itself as a template? Or are the holes in that too small?

Anyway, thanks to your encouragement I think I'll just stay happy with the top mount..! B)

there's always next year's Tele for string-through :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...