Kevan Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 Heh heh....I wasn't actually suggesting purchasing a ZX; just letting you know that PARTS of them are kinda cool....and could be incorporated into a project (such as the FX unit section). Here's one of the retractable headsets I had in mind: http://www.gothandsfree.com/Cellular-Acces...ne-T-Style.html ....and here's one more (a bit more expensive): http://www.gothandsfree.com/Cellular-Acces...ne-T-Style.html If so desired, you could replace the cord/mono bud that comes with those units, with a regular stereo ear bud set. Countersink the entire thing into the top edge of the guitar (up by the top horn?), with a slide-away door for access/storage....could be cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 the entire thing into the top edge of the guitar (up by the top horn?), with a slide-away door for access/storage....could be cool. That'll get in the way of his windmills, won't it? One of the things I hate about the Dano box is that the wire attaching to the headphones connects to the LEFT earpiece....what were they thinking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyB Posted December 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 the entire thing into the top edge of the guitar (up by the top horn?), with a slide-away door for access/storage....could be cool. That'll get in the way of his windmills, won't it? One of the things I hate about the Dano box is that the wire attaching to the headphones connects to the LEFT earpiece....what were they thinking? My windmills? Oh yeah, did your dano box come with a pair of headphones? What's the problem with the cord being attached to the left headphone? I'm so confused, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 One of the things I hate about the Dano box is that the wire attaching to the headphones connects to the LEFT earpiece....what were they thinking? My windmills? Oh yeah, did your dano box come with a pair of headphones? What's the problem with the cord being attached to the left headphone? I'm so confused, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevan Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 the entire thing into the top edge of the guitar (up by the top horn?), with a slide-away door for access/storage....could be cool. That'll get in the way of his windmills, won't it? I was referring to the plane where strat buttons are usually attached. So, unless he's playing the strap, I don't think it'll interfere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spirit Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 A late addition to the thread, I know, but the "amp in a guitar" has been done by Pignose. http://www.pignose.com/ (Go to "Product Information", which is on the left of the main page.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 20, 2004 Report Share Posted December 20, 2004 A late addition to the thread, I know, but the "amp in a guitar" has been done by Pignose. http://www.pignose.com/ (Go to "Product Information", which is on the left of the main page.) Sure, and Fernandes did it even better But the idea here is turning into something even more radical... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyB Posted December 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2004 Last night I drew out a rough sketch of how everything will come together and I think this project is very do-able and should be fairly easy to manage the electronics. Basically.. [Pickup output] v [Amp] <- [volume & distortion pot] v [Three-way toggle] -> [1/4" output jack] v v [Speaker] [Headphone jack] And yeah I've played on a Pignose PG100 before and I really didn't like it. The body is made out of plywood and the construction isn't all that great. IMO I can make a much better guitar that won't cost quite as much. I haven't made a solid estimate yet, but this project shouldn't cost any more than $160 not including the shipping for some of the materials and some of the tools I'll have to buy to get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyB Posted December 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2004 Okay, Pignose finally mailed me the wiring schematics and it all works out pretty much like I thought it would. The only difference is that the Dano pocket amp will have a built in volume/distortion dials, so wiring those up will be a matter of extending the wires to a set of potentiometers. Otherwise the wiring schematic will be nearly identical. The PGG100 has everything that I had planned on implementing into my guitar (headphone jack, output jack, speaker, etc.) When I get started on my project it will all just be a matter of putting it all together and making everything integral and aesthetically pleasing. I'm more excited than ever to start on this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mu_sound Posted December 21, 2004 Report Share Posted December 21, 2004 Great suggestion on the pignose or danelectro or Marshall or any of the little amplifiers out there for $60-100. Pick the tone you like and the put it into your guitar. I'd personally ditch the box and just figure out how they mounted their PCBs (little green electronics board) and use a similar pattern to attach to the guitar. As for a jack. Why bother. all the components are internal so you could actually wire the two wires you'd normally send to the output jack, directly into the input of the amp. wire to wire no 1/4" male & female jacks at all. The only reason for the external jack is the headphone/OFF function. Speaker placement---> if you want a lot of direct coupling, mount it under the strings like to picture above. I would use a grill cover to prevent an errant pick from slashing the speaker foam or cone. My guess it it would depend on what youre starting with. raw wood or an already existing flat-ocaster or a SG or whatever. BTW I have an almost working pignose in my garage that is doing nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyB Posted December 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2004 (edited) Great suggestion on the pignose or danelectro or Marshall or any of the little amplifiers out there for $60-100. Pick the tone you like and the put it into your guitar. I'd personally ditch the box and just figure out how they mounted their PCBs (little green electronics board) and use a similar pattern to attach to the guitar. As for a jack. Why bother. all the components are internal so you could actually wire the two wires you'd normally send to the output jack, directly into the input of the amp. wire to wire no 1/4" male & female jacks at all. The only reason for the external jack is the headphone/OFF function. Speaker placement---> if you want a lot of direct coupling, mount it under the strings like to picture above. I would use a grill cover to prevent an errant pick from slashing the speaker foam or cone. My guess it it would depend on what youre starting with. raw wood or an already existing flat-ocaster or a SG or whatever. BTW I have an almost working pignose in my garage that is doing nothing. I don't think you read the entire thread, pretty much everything you said has already been covered . I will be removing the box that the pocket amp comes in and mounting it in a similar fashion to the wiring schematic that I posted above. I'll be wiring the output from the amp to a 3-way toggle switch. The toggle switch will branch out to either the speaker, headphone jack, or output jack. That way it's a little more versatile if you know what I mean. Also I decided I'm going to place the speaker under a layer of plexiglass. I haven't decided if I'll put it under a clear pickguard, or if I'll just route a hole through the body towards the tail and mount the speaker in there. And I'll be basing all of this off of a Torres Engineering Tele kit. There's a quick summary of pretty much everything in this thread. Edited December 22, 2004 by JackyB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mu_sound Posted December 22, 2004 Report Share Posted December 22, 2004 Youre right, I missed some of the later posts before I posted my own. OOps, its pays to read, right? Anyway, the plexiglass over the speaker may deaden the sound way to much. Its not like you'll be driving it with a 10-20W amp, so it will already be limited even if you pop holes in the plexi. The frequency reponse will go to hell. I'd opt for a cloth or metal grill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyB Posted December 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2004 Youre right, I missed some of the later posts before I posted my own. OOps, its pays to read, right? Anyway, the plexiglass over the speaker may deaden the sound way to much. Its not like you'll be driving it with a 10-20W amp, so it will already be limited even if you pop holes in the plexi. The frequency reponse will go to hell. I'd opt for a cloth or metal grill. Yeah, that was one of my concerns. I think I'll go ahead and do it, and if it deadens the sound too much I can always cut a circle out of the plexiglass and construct a cloth cover over the speaker. I'd like the speaker to be visible, though. I'll have to see hwo the plexiglass effects it once I get it constructed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 22, 2004 Report Share Posted December 22, 2004 Yeah, that was one of my concerns. I think I'll go ahead and do it, and if it deadens the sound too much I can always cut a circle out of the plexiglass and construct a cloth cover over the speaker. I'd like the speaker to be visible, though. I'll have to see hwo the plexiglass effects it once I get it constructed. Well you can drill a grill pattern into the plexiglass, that 'll let the sound through while still protecting it. Or you can buy predrilled plexiglass, I'm sure that exists, that way you'll get a nice machined look. And there's no reason for the plexiglass to be thicker than a normal pickguard. You could also try some colored plexiglass for that matter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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