Maher Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 Hi Im going to be building my first guitar from scratch pretty soon, so as youll imagine i will come across loads of things i will need advice on so instead of me making a post every other day with a new question i thought i may aswell just make one thread and post all my question in it. hope thats ok. well here we go- my guitar will be a set neck DC Les paul Jnr flat top kind of guitar with a black painted mahogany neck and ebony fretboard with white binding. well i was planning on buying a pre slotted & radiused fretboard, but thinking about it i think id like to build it from total scratch because im sure this wont be my last project and i couldnt find any fretboards with binding, but is it possible to add binding to a preslotted and radiused fretboard? the body will also have white binding, do i tape up the binding? and then spray the body black? but then wont it be unequal?do i sprat clear coat over the binding to level it out? Thanks more to come Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xebryusguitars Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 well after reading a lot ill make some assumptions. THe whole binding fingerboard part, it all depends on the neck itself and your personal preferences to how wide you want the neck, and also, you probably will have to re-radius the fingerboard after the binding is installed so it flows. With the binding on the body. Well the reason why people need a loadfull of clearcoat on their guitars is because of the fact that they need to be leveled out through sanding, so naturally, the binding will be uneven at first, but after sanding the clearcoat flat, hopefully its smooth without sandthroughs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maher Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 ok thanks for the help next question i want a bridge like that on a Les Paul Jnr with no stop piece like this http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...es.html#details but wont this bridge make inotnation a problem? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xebryusguitars Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Well those bridges are made factory set up for "good intonation" though I have heard that they dont have the best sustain and tone plus you cant set them up to your own preferences. ibanez makes one for their GAX75. they sell the bridge for 55. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 ok thanks for the help next question i want a bridge like that on a Les Paul Jnr with no stop piece like this http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...es.html#details but wont this bridge make inotnation a problem? thanks ← It doesn't make intonation a problem, it makes it nonexistent . That bridge has a set intonation just like acoustic bridges do. I suppose you can adjust it a little bit by changing the whole bridge's angle, but that's about it. There are some other one-piece tune-o-matic sort of options, like: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...es.html#details and, if you go to http://www.universaljems.com/cart/bridgetunematic.htm the gotoh labeled number 2570-010 and the schaller labeled number 0533-010 All of these offer adjustible intonation in a one-piece tune-o-matic/stoppiece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maher Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 (edited) hi thanks for the fast replys guys ive found this bridge http://www.axesrus.com/axehardware_files/badassc.jpg so i think i might go for that. next Q! how do i drill the hole from the pick up cavaties to feed the wires through and from the pick up cavatie to the control cavaites? the control cavatie will be rear routed but theres no pick guard on the front so i route a channel on the top of the body, and i cant see how a regular sized drill bit will be able to connect the two pick up cavaties, i can possible make it reach from the bridge pick up to the control cavatie. Edit: i should add the body is not laminated so i cant route channels then put a cap on top Edited February 22, 2005 by Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 how do i drill the hole from the pick up cavaties to feed the wires through and from the pick up cavatie to the control cavaites? the control cavatie will be rear routed but theres no pick guard on the front so i route a channel on the top of the body, and i cant see how a regular sized drill bit will be able to connect the two pick up cavaties, i can possible make it reach from the bridge pick up to the control cavatie. Edit: i should add the body is not laminated so i cant route channels then put a cap on top ← A lot of people just get a really long drill bit (they're pretty available, you just have to be looking for them) and drill from one corner of one pup cavity to the other corner of the other cavity - the rear-route control cavity should be big enough to pretty easily drill from it onto one of the pup cavities. I guess it just depends on your drill, how deep your pup cavities are, and how far apart you have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maher Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 ok thanks alot. now... i want a les paul type sound put i dont want a laminated body so what ype of wood shall i use for that sound? i heard mahogany will be to bright without a maple cap...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted February 23, 2005 Report Share Posted February 23, 2005 ok thanks alot. now... i want a les paul type sound put i dont want a laminated body so what ype of wood shall i use for that sound? i heard mahogany will be to bright without a maple cap...? ← Actually, the point of putting a maple cap on a mahogany body guitar (a la Les Paul) is to brighten it up a little bit. Maple's harder and a bit more dense than mahogany (something like 44 pounds per square foot versus 36 pounds per square foot), so it's a brighter wood. That said, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a solid mahogany body guitar - go to a guitar shop and play an SG, which, standard, is probably the most widely-known solid mahogany body guitar in the world. It's a little different sound from a Les Paul, but it still has that Gibson sound. Scale length also has a lot to do with the sound of a guitar, as it helps determine what harmonics dominate the tone - so if you're going for a Gibson/Les Paul sound, MAKE SURE TO USE GIBSON'S 24 3/4" SCALE, not the 25.5" scale that's more common. That's important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maher Posted February 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2005 oh really! thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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