24 3/4 Neck Retro Fit

[jhally]

Hello All,

has anyone ever retro-fitted a 24 3/4" scale neck on a 25 1/2 scale body? I'm guessing that it involves moving the bridge, but curious if there are other alternatives.

Thanks in Advance!

[Mr Alex]

Hello All,

has anyone ever retro-fitted a 24 3/4" scale neck on a 25 1/2 scale body?  I'm guessing that it involves moving the bridge, but curious if there are other alternatives.

Thanks in Advance!

←

warmoth make conversion necks, and a baritone one as well, they claim you dont have to move the bridge if its in a standard strat pocket.

[jhally]

I saw the conversion necks, but I have an old strat-type body and a 24 3/4" neck that I was thinking about mucking around with to see if I could make it work.

[Mr Alex]

I saw the conversion necks, but I have an old strat-type body and a 24 3/4" neck that I was thinking about mucking around with to see if I could make it work.

←

ok, there isn't any reason why it can't work, but there is a lot of reasons why it will probably look crap, like the fact that the neck will have to be modified to fit, and holes/gaps will probably need to be filled. I haven't seen the conversion necks up close, but they will have the fretboard overhang in a very presice place. it's probably more work than its worth to get your neck to work on it.

[mrdevoe]

If it's a strat with a tremolo, you can pretty much forget about moving the bridge. If it's a hardtail bridge though, you might be able to do it without too much trouble, depending on how much it needs to be moved and where the screw holes are. If you're lucky, the new placement of the bridge will cover the old screw holes. However if it needs to move too far forward, you'll have to modify your pickguard.

To test, just put the neck in the body's pocket and measure back 24 3/4" from the nut and that'll show you about where the saddles of the bridge should be.

I do agree with Mr Alex though that any of the other options other than moving the bridge would be far too much trouble and would probably not look very good anyway.

Good luck,

-Mark

[brian d]

Try this:

1) Place the neck in the neck pocket and measure from the bridge to the nut. We'll call that number "x".

2) if x is more than 24.75 inches, then re-rout the neck pocket x minus 24.75 closer to the bridge.

If x is less than 24.75, then you have more of a problem.

Brian D

[frank falbo]

That's how I did mine. I brought the neck in so that the fretboard meets the neck pickup. If you look at a 24 fret Ibanez RG with the All Access Neck Joint, the neck pocket doesn't have a back on it. It just goes clear through to the neck pickup cavity. So that's what I did to this guitar. This guitar is a 22 fret Ibanez Saber, and I put a 22 fret LP style neck on it. Luckily, the neck I was using had a long heel, otherwise you'd have to carve back the neck pocket. I did that anyway, because I converted the heel to an AANJ at the same time, but I didn't have to.

For a strat, you'll probably have to fill the body holes and re-drill them farther back. If you wanted to have minimal modification, you could just cut off the front two holes of the neck pocket, and sand that smooth. The distance from the front screw holes to the edge of the neck pocket is about the same distance you'll be routing back the pocket. Then re-drill those back on the new section, fill the back two holes, and re-drill those. Then you'd just have that flat tip section where the neck meets the body to touch up. Or leave the wood showing, and oil it or seal it with something. That's the most stealth way I can think of.