frank falbo

Fantastic! Hey another funny story, the guy that shot the demo video (which is available higher res at the Duncan site) was actually with me when I found those roller saddles! I told him the story and he remembers the whole thing. Anyway yes it's great to work for Seymour Duncan. The P-Rails in a P90 housing is something the Custom Shop can do, but it requires slightly smaller magnets in order to fit everything under there. So it'll be like 95% the same thing, but a little different. But then with the Custom Shop you can pretty much get whatever you want. Did I ever see a picture of that lap steel?

Hey GregP, yeah that's me in the video. I just thought of you tonight because I'm building a lap steel for our purchasing guy. Actually, he bought a set of P-Rails for his PRS SE and is quite pleased with them. Thanks for the kind words. I've actually been working on P-Rails for quite some time, and moved to CA to work for Seymour Duncan in the process. I can tell you the P90 sound was the primary concern. The rest of the pickup design was somewhat dictated by the vision for the P90 tone. Anyway if you get to try a set, be sure to report back to me what you think!

The PRS SE aren't made by Cort. But most/all Korean Fenders and Ibanez are. As I understand it, there are three or four main factories over there that are still accounting for 90% of all Korean product. I can usually pick out everything that came from the Cort factory on sight. The other two are more homogenous. For example the PRS SE's look like they could have come from Samick, but they don't. Also the Schecters aren't from Cort either, but I don't know where they come from. Probably the Schecters, Deans, and ESP LTD's are the same factory from what I've seen, and all are non-Corts. You can't go wrong with a Cort because they ARE the manufacturer. So that means there's no middle man, and no super high advertising budgets to jack up the price of the guitar. So with Cort you're getting a more fair price for all comparable kinds of guitars. I'm not saying they're all awesome guitars or anything, just that they're at least as good and cost less than anything in their comparable price/feature ranges. Anyone with a Cort, especially one after 1992 should be proud to own it.

The Warmoth/Stew Mac/Tom Anderson triangular wire is among my favorite. The crowning file is somewhat irrelevant, because you are still putting a crown onto a surface that has a quick slant. Plus a good refret should mean that you're levelling so little, that crowning is hardly necessary. It plays like it's narrow, but wears and sounds more like jumbos. I can also make the fret ends very comfortable with no more effort than regular frets. I haven't tried the Petillo stuff, but I would venture to say I wouldn't like it. Too much of a pyramid, and you might as well be playing on a knife edge. He claims a more perfect intonation, but my guess is that you're more likely to pull sharp in that scenario if you use any force, like with Dunlop 6105.

They really missed the boat on this one. But then don't they always? Two different colored pickups?! The heel should have been like David Myka's or Xlr8's. It's still got some silly hard angles on there that are completely unnecessary. A LP with a floyd is okay with me. Just don't route an older LP for an aftermarket floyd. But putting one on in the factory, or on a newer Crapaul is fine. Visually they could have totally nailed it, like some of the ESP's or older Aria Pro & Yamaha LP's. But instead, like you guys have said, it looks like a bad mod job. What a waste. If I could compliment them on anything, it would be to have the courage to put two non-Gibson parts on there; the sustainer and the Floyd. That is something you don't usually see from them. They're all selfish and what not, putting their "branding image" ahead of everything else. What, did they buy out Fernandes and Floyd Rose?

You could put charcoal in there and cook a steak on that fretboard. Which would be fitting because that neck needs to be BBQ'd. How much more scalloped could that neck be? None more scalloped. Um, hey were you able to clean all that truss rod out of your files and sandpaper? How did that go? How many vacuum bags did you go through cleaning up the wood shavings? Two? Maybe three? Sorry I can't help it. He's probably a nice guy. I shouldn't be making jok-hey did you build a whole other neck with the shavings?

I've always scalloped first, that way you don't have to worry about hitting the frets when you're doing your scallops. You can even sand across the scallops, allowing the paper to hit the frets and scratch them all up, because you're removing them anyway! It's a little more likely to chip out during fret removal if your scallops are close to the fret slot, and overly deep. Otherwise it's fine. You can also clean up your scallops when the frets are out, too. You pull the frets, level the board, and then clean up the lines where the scallops begin and end. For me that's always been the way I do it. I've done plenty of scallops without refrets, too. So it's not a big deal to do a scallop with frets installed, you just have to be more careful to work AROUND the frets. Since I do a lot of wood removal with the automated tools, there's always a risk of touching the fret.

They should be married first. I have a Schaller here and the axle doesn't move. It's stationary. If that's the case, then it's fine. If that axle rotates with the switch, then you're looking for scratchiness later on. So I'd lubricate it (again, after a proper marriage ceremony) so they don't scrape against eachother, or worse, you turn the one and the other moves with it.

www.justrefrets.com Few people are going to be able to do you justice now that the frets are out. Soapbarstrat is right. Anyone can check your board for level and reinstall frets at this point, but they're at a handicap. You're bound to find someone who says they'll put frets in and level/crown them for a cheap price, you just have to decide what you want to do.

It was probably flat and it cupped over time.

I voted "no" I've seen a lot of dumb questions asked here on pg, that doesn't even come close.

It's just a '93 540RLTD, straight out of the '93 catalog, offered in Jewel Blue. F3=93, and that was the debut and farewell of the AANJ Radius. It's a great guitar.

Yeah, no kidding, you guys need to shut up about it being a Radius. I collect them, and believe me, this is no Radius. It's not even an exact copy of the body shape. This whole debate is a waste of time unless we're discussing what it might be OTHER THAN a Radius and NOT BEING Japanese. The binding alone should have been enough for all of you.

From what you're saying, the Dimarzio Super 2 should be exactly right. The Air Norton will be too wooly and tubby in the bass IF you're already having those kinds of complaints about the PAF Pro. The Duncan Jazz would be good too, as would the Duncan Full Shred neck.

You can't use scissors. You have to have a band/scroll saw, or a router/dremel and pearloid doesn't just melt, it ignites! So please keep that in mind. Slow, cool cuts are recommended. But go too slow, and you'll build up excess heat and ignite the pearloid.