Ebony Neck

[Andy]

Ok. So.. (like first proper post here)

I've got a chance to get my hands on a large amount of ebony, Quite cheap. Easily enough to make a single piece neck through with straight head stock (No scarfjoint).

Would it be worth trying or would I be simply wasting a nice piece of wood?

I understand from older topics that balance could be an issue, but as my design is a bit wierd (30 fret 27.5"), I'd need a long lower cut out, to even reach those extra 6 frets, so I could shift that cut out, and the bridge back (more so than normal), and the upper horn forwards, so the tip is at like the 10th fret, to improve balance.

Would that work OK or would I have to fiddle around with the back strap pin to rotate the guitar up a bit more?

What body wood would be good with it? (preferably something light)

And most importantly... Exactly how evil is it on hand tools? Will it require new blades for spokeshaves?

I'm going to buy it anyway if I can convince my parents to sub me the cash (I still owe them like £65 for my pod XT live) Cause if I'm too wimpy to make the neck I can get probably 6 Fingerboards (or more) out of it.

[Myka Guitars]

I've got a chance to get my hands on a large amount of ebony, Quite cheap. Easily enough to make a single piece neck through with straight head stock (No scarfjoint).

Would it be worth trying or would I be simply wasting a nice piece of wood?

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Personally I feel that if you are doing one piece necks then you are wasting wood. I buy neck blanks and usually get 2-3 necks out of one neck blank. Much better use of rare wood. And the scarf joint in inherently stronger due to the grain direction (there is a reason why all thos LP headstocks break off at the head). Plan it out and get at least 2 necks plus some fingerboards.

What body wood would be good with it? (preferably something light)

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I would use something like mahogany or limba to warm up the tone a bit. Ebony will sound very bright and perhaps even harsh if you use too bright of a body wood.

And most importantly... Exactly how evil is it on hand tools? Will it require new blades for spokeshaves?

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If your tools are sharp then you are fine. It is no harder to work than maple, oak, ash, or rosewood.

About that balance of the guitar that all depends on the over al geometry of the guitar. I have built rosewood necked guitars and they balanced fine. You need to match the wieght of the body with the design so it works. It is not impossible.

The main thing I would think about is if an ebony neck is going to give you anything in terms of tone that you want. It would certainly be a cool idea but is it a good sounding idea? Tap tone will tell you a lot about your piece of wood. What does it sound like?

[Andy]

Personally I feel that if you are doing one piece necks then you are wasting wood. I buy neck blanks and usually get 2-3 necks out of one neck blank. Much better use of rare wood. And the scarf joint in inherently stronger due to the grain direction (there is a reason why all thos LP headstocks break off at the head). Plan it out and get at least 2 necks plus some fingerboards.

Its only about 1 3/4" thick so realistically only a single neck blank will come out of it (thus the straight headstock rather than angled back) but possibly a few (1 or 2) fingerboard blanks from the area behind the neck

I would use something like mahogany or limba to warm up the tone a bit. Ebony will sound very bright and perhaps even harsh if you use too bright of a body wood.

Thanks that'll let me do some thinking, I should be able to get those woods quite easily

If your tools are sharp then you are fine. It is no harder to work than maple, oak, ash, or rosewood.

Thanks. I'll be sure to keep my oilstone on hand for blades.

The main thing I would think about is if an ebony neck is going to give you anything in terms of tone that you want. It would certainly be a cool idea but is it a good sounding idea? Tap tone will tell you a lot about your piece of wood. What does it sound like?

I dont quite understand the whole tap-tone idea, does it mean that if you tap a piece of wood and listen to the knock if its say "mahogany" it'll sound warmer and less.. erm.. "Sharp" than say maple or rosewood? or am I completely out?

I suppose I could also get it cut into either 1/4" or 1/3" and use it for centre laminates in multi-piece through necks though that would limit them to 1 3/4 in thickness. Which I dont suppose would be too bad if I choose the other laminates carefully.

Edited July 6, 2005 by Andy

[Myka Guitars]

The laminate idea is also a great tone. This way you can get the qualities of ebony (sustain, high end clarity, etc) and also blend that with the other woods you use.

You have the tap tone idea correct. It is pretty easy to use and understand. If you hold the piece of wood properly (1/4 of the way down and 1/4 the way across to fine the node) you can then tap the wood and it will generate a tone. Move where you hold it and where you tap it to find the best way to do this. Listen to the attack, the sustain, and the overall character of the wood. It will tell you how the wood will color the sound of the guitar.

As a general order of precedence the most affect is as follows:

1- body wood

2- neck wood (a very close 2nd)

3- top wood

4- fingerboard wood (ranks at the top when note attack is concerned, then the order above for tone)

With semi hollows and hollowbodies (and acousitcs) the soundboard, or top wood makes more of a difference than the the neck or body but in varying degrees.

Don't any of this as the absolute truth. Chek each peice you use before you build a guitar, make notes and imagine the tonal outcome, and then compare your notes with the actual tone at the end of the project. You will learn an incredible amount this way.

[bluespresence]

Chek each peice you use before you build a guitar, make notes and imagine the tonal outcome, and then compare your notes with the actual tone at the end of the project. You will learn an incredible amount this way.

Thanks! That's one of the best pieces of info I've seen here.

[Andy]

Chek each peice you use before you build a guitar, make notes and imagine the tonal outcome, and then compare your notes with the actual tone at the end of the project. You will learn an incredible amount this way.

Thanks! That's one of the best pieces of info I've seen here.

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Ditto, very useful its cleared up some hazy areas I had.

I just have to get around the funny looks I'll get when I'm holding wood and tapping it, listening and then writing stuff down.. Should be fun. OR I could just reply "Roy, my imaginary friend made me do it.. Honest"