thegarehanman Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Ok, I have never in my life used instrument laquer. I'm a very big proponent of the automotive(2-pack) clear coat. However, I've decided to mix things up a bit and give the instrument laquer a go. I bought stewmac's behlen nitro laquer. I have always read on the forum that you guys allow about a month before wet sanding and buffing. However, if you read the instructions that Stewmac has for their laquer, they say to only wait 4 days before wet sanding and buffing? Could this be true? Or is stewmac wanting you to rush it? I wouldn't want to wet sand the finish while it's still green. I know that the rule of thumb is if it still smells, don't sand it. However, everyone knows that finishes can still be green with no odor. Realize I haven't laid down the finish yet. I'm not even close to that stage. I'm just wondering if this 4 day thing is possible? If it is I'll be jumping for joy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Ok, I have never in my life used instrument laquer. I'm a very big proponent of the automotive(2-pack) clear coat. However, I've decided to mix things up a bit and give the instrument laquer a go. I bought stewmac's behlen nitro laquer. I have always read on the forum that you guys allow about a month before wet sanding and buffing. However, if you read the instructions that Stewmac has for their laquer, they say to only wait 4 days before wet sanding and buffing? Could this be true? Or is stewmac wanting you to rush it? I wouldn't want to wet sand the finish while it's still green. I know that the rule of thumb is if it still smells, don't sand it. However, everyone knows that finishes can still be green with no odor. Realize I haven't laid down the finish yet. I'm not even close to that stage. I'm just wondering if this 4 day thing is possible? If it is I'll be jumping for joy. ← For Nitro...don't even think about it. Think 4 weeks, minimum. I won't even touch a waterbased finish with final wetsanding and/or buffing for 2 weeks, minimum (although I do wet-level before the final two flowout coats, after giving it a week to dry, minimize the work later). If you've got catalyzed Poly working for you, why go for Nitro? What with it's ultimate isntability in the long term. I know which one I'd choose if I had the choice, and it's not nitrocellulose. How thin you apply the finish matters more than any 'mythical' properties the finish is supposed to have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Ok, well here's another question. Anytime I ever used an automotive clear coat, it was on top of an automotive basecoat. The sheet I get with my 2 pack clear coats say it's designed to be sprayed onto acrilic base coats. Do you think it would tolerate being sprayed onto stewmac's vinyl sealer? I know some types of finishes like to crinkle up depending on what they've been sprayed onto. Ordinarilly auto clears are pretty durable though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 I'm wondering why nitro is still even being used. Many years ago the big companies switched to acrylic based laquer because nitro on their existing guitars was checking, yellowing and causing colors to fade (lack of UV protection). If you shoot only one thin coat at a time, perhaps you might be able to wetsand. But I have reservations about sanding ANY coating after such a short time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 A week is ample time for a 2-pack to dry. I've done whole cars before. That stuff is rock solid, bye then if you mix it right, even if you add a retarder(which I always do). I love 2-packs. I didn't realize nitro had so many downsides. I guess that $15 can of it I bought from stewmac will just have to sit around till I have to refinish an end table or something, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Ok, well here's another question. Anytime I ever used an automotive clear coat, it was on top of an automotive basecoat. The sheet I get with my 2 pack clear coats say it's designed to be sprayed onto acrilic base coats. Do you think it would tolerate being sprayed onto stewmac's vinyl sealer? I know some types of finishes like to crinkle up depending on what they've been sprayed onto. Ordinarilly auto clears are pretty durable though. ← OK, here's a question: why use Vinyl sealer at all? I've never used the stuff to seal, prefer to slap on some shellac, which does nice things to the grain, and is compatible with pretty much every finish on the face of the earth. Wouldn't the 2-parts be self-sealing, anyway? Used as it's own sealer and all? I'd assume we're talking fairly high-solids, few coats needed materials here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2005 This is true...I've just never used it on bare wood before so I'm hesitant to do that....buuut I suppose I could do some test runs. Actually, I've used it on bare ebony before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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