Scrappy_Squirrel Posted July 18, 2005 Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 I recently had a dillemma with neck fabrication and tools etc... so I bought a pre-radiused compound radius fretboard from stewmac. The one thing I didn't take into consideration, and has me pannicking a bit, is that the scale length has changed from my original design. I was originally going with a Gibson scale but buying the pre-radiused option I had to go with the fender scale; which is ok because it's more comfortable to me anyway. My concern is this: I know that a longer scale adds some highs to the tone but I'm trying to keep a somewhat Gibson LP-like mahogany tone with more bass clarity and better resonance than the standard LP (with the same dampened highs that most Gibsons exhibit). My wood combo and configuration is such and I'm wondering if I should change my order from an ebony fretboard to Indian rosewood fretboard in keeping with my preferences? I'm particularly concerned that Ebony will be too bright for P90's. I originally chose ebony because I thought the bubinga, being oily, would dampen the highs too much if I also had a rosewood fingerboard. I didn't realize, at the time, that the longer scale would also add more highs. Body: Limba (2 piece) Gibson style. Chambered for weight relief Cap: Slightly figured 5/8" Bubinga (1 piece) Neck: Set/laminated 2 piece/25.5/Limba/Carbon fiber reinforced/double exp truss rod Headstock: 13 deg scarfed/grover locking tuners Fretboard: Ebony or Indian Rosewood? Fretwire: Nickle/jumbo Pickups: 2-3 custom wound P90's or some hotter P90-like variation Bridge: Hipshot six string contoured trem While I like clarity in the upper range there is something about a bright sounding guitar that I find impossible to tame. There's a harsh rasp that never goes away even when attempting to dial it out. The only way I can describe it is "stiffness"... if that makes any sense. I prefer more of a fluid clarity as apposed to stiff clarity in the upper range, complex and bell-like harmonic richness in the mids and tight percussive clarity in the lower registers. I also prefer tighter strings, longer necks and a compound radius for low action and clear bends. I think the Fender scale will suit me fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zionstrat Posted July 18, 2005 Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 SSquirrel- We're looking at almost exactly the same coin form different sides:) Take a look at my thread http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=17946 and now I see that you have been in there- Most on this and other sites are telling me that neck has more impact than even a cap- Just like you , I want to avoid the brightness.. I have strats for that. So considering I am not building a neck myself, I wonder if anyone is building a maple fretboard/mahogany neck- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappy_Squirrel Posted July 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 (edited) SSquirrel- We're looking at almost exactly the same coin form different sides:) Take a look at my thread http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=17946 and now I see that you have been in there- Most on this and other sites are telling me that neck has more impact than even a cap- Just like you , I want to avoid the brightness.. I have strats for that. So considering I am not building a neck myself, I wonder if anyone is building a maple fretboard/mahogany neck- ← Yeah, I read your post and was like "Damn, this guy's got a similar issue but...it's kinda' not..." LOL. Hopefully between our two posts we'll reach a conclusion through combined efforts (asking a similar question in different ways to get more detailed answers). The only reason I started my own post was because my woods are different than yours and I'm not familiar with the woods I'm using enough to answer my own question. I've read that fretboard woods generally just increase/decrease sustain, sharpen/dull the attack and add/reduce highs... that said, I'm hoping to increase sustain, sharpen my attack but dampen highs without losing clarity, is that even possible?! I'm still considering doing a string through for added sustain but it would be nice to do some divebombs occassionally. Edited July 18, 2005 by Scrappy_Squirrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zionstrat Posted July 18, 2005 Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 Exactly- We devide and conquer..no that must have been a work related thread:) Serously. Pau Ferro has come up on my thread and I wonder if it could be bleached and finished to look and feel more like maple? Hoep we both get to help each other out- Not sure if cross posts are allowed, but I've asked some of these questions on mimf and Sduncan- Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappy_Squirrel Posted July 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 (edited) Exactly- We devide and conquer..no that must have been a work related thread:) Serously. Pau Ferro has come up on my thread and I wonder if it could be bleached and finished to look and feel more like maple? Hoep we both get to help each other out- Not sure if cross posts are allowed, but I've asked some of these questions on mimf and Sduncan- Cheers ← *Dejavu* I recommended the Pau Ferro. I don't know if it can be bleached or not but I'm sure someone more experienced can help. I think there's an acho in here... I actually bought a beautiful piece of Pau Ferro to make a fretboard out of but realised my time and tool limits and reconsidered. I went for the StewMac preradiused option instead. Edited July 18, 2005 by Scrappy_Squirrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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