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Titebond Iii


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i've been a fan of titebond and titebond II glues for many years. i recently purchased my first bottle of titebond III and was very impressed. besides guitars i make and sell a lot of wooden jewelry and often glue up parts way too small to use clamps. titebond III seems to be a little thicker than most glues and while it has an excellent open time it seems to "grip" a little better on initial contact eliminating the need for clamping the small parts.

i haven't used it on a guitar or anything larger yet but so far it seems like a really good glue...in case you've been sitting up late at night trying to decide whether or not to buy some.. :D

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Where on a guitar would you want to use a PVA glue that isn't Titebond Original, though? I've heard far too many first-hand accounts from people I respect to even touch Titebond II with a 10 foot pole: it creeps more, it dries less hard, and honestly, if your guitar's going to be that exposed to weather, you've got other problems. Only place I've seen Titebond II reccomended is places where hardness and creep aren't an issue, but heat resistance is, for example when laminating bindings that need to be heat-bent and need to not fall apart. Anything structural, not s'much.

If you want a joint that won't come apart as easily, use a high-quality epoxy, or even a good Polyurethane (although I tend to reserve the latter for gluing CF to wood and similar. Needs hard clamping to work properly). Titebond III, based on the specs, is like II only more so: waterproof, possibly stronger than Original, but again, you really, really don't need that extra strength. And if you do, because you're building a canoeing instrument, use epoxy.

If you want quick grip, learn to love liquid hide glue or CA.

Titebond Original is a great glue, and, other than LMI's white glue, pretty much the only PVA I want to let near my guitars, electric or acoustic.

Edited by mattia
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