Whats The Best Paint To Use For Painting

[Ledzendrix1128]

Would tester's model paint work for Painting a design with a brush? I also plan on laquering with dupli-color's auto body clear coat. heres a pic of the guitar so far. This is one can of primer, and a streched out can of red import car paint by duplicolor.

http://www.geocities.com/ledzendrix1128/redlpj.JPG

Thanks,

- louis

Crap, someone tell me if this is too big... im not sure its borderlined... i link it if need be.

EDIT - ok linked

Edited November 4, 2005 by Ledzendrix1128

[LGM Guitars]

Way big by the forum rules.

Testors paints will probably lift the red underneath and create problems just painting, but worse yet, it will wrinkle and lift when you spray a clear laquer on it. You'll have to use an acrylic paint probably. Something that is NOT solvent based. Laquers are not good to work with since they will continue to affect the paint under them, and all solvents will attack laquers.

If you're using model paints, then there are brands like Pactra, Polly S, Tamiya etc. Createx airbrush paints don't brush great, but you can use them.

[Ledzendrix1128]

So ok, can I not spray laquer over the red paint thats on there now (duplicolor clear coat)? Assuming that i can at least spray the clear coat over the red paint (since im pretty sure that the clear is designed to be sprayed over the paint), whats to stop me from buying duplicolor black spray paint (walmart is where im buying all this cheap-o stuff), and spraying that into a cup? and those brands of model paints your talking about, will they do ok with the clear coat?

Edited November 4, 2005 by Ledzendrix1128

[thegarehanman]

Duplicolor clear is not laquer(if it's the two part variety). To insure that you don't mess up the red layer, I would recomend spraying a few light coats of the clear on before you apply your design. I don't know about the compatibility of the spray paint(I'm assuming it's marginal, at best), but realize that the spray paint will dry quickly once you spray it in the cup, it's not designed to stay wet long.

peace,

russ

Edited November 4, 2005 by thegarehanman

[Ledzendrix1128]

yeah, spraying some clear on before i paint sounds like a good idea. So heres the process,

1) paint guitar red (already done)

2) spray about 2 thin coats of duplicolor clear

3) paint with black model paint (whatever you guys think would work best)

4) more clear coat

Oh yeah, garehanman, im using the spray can variety from walmart, the whole thing im going for is the cheapest finish possible that still looks good and wont fall apart

Edited November 4, 2005 by Ledzendrix1128

[thegarehanman]

Well so far it looks like you're doing pretty well for yourself. From what I can see, you've got even coverage and I can't discern any curtains, sags, or runs(although we haven't seen the back of it ). I'm not entirely sure that the duplicolor spray clear is laquer or not(what does the can say). If it's for automotive purposes, I'd be inclined to think it's some sort of urethane. Please enlighten us on the matter.

peace,

russ

[LGM Guitars]

You didn't get what I said. The clear will be fine since a) you're spraying it, and it was designed for the red you sprayed (I'm assuming)

The problem with using a solvent based paint over ANY solvent based laquer, is the solvent in the paint (testors in this case) will soften the laquer, with the friction of the brush it will pull up whatever color you have underneath. you'll end up with quite a ridge as well as the bottom color pulling through.

Then, when you spray the clear OVER the graphic you want to hand paint, the testors paint will again react with the clear, your testors will wrinkle and lift. That is why I said use an acrylic paint. The solvents won't react with the water based paints.

[Ledzendrix1128]

Yeah, thats the thing about this clear coat. I sprayed it on another guitar of mine, and it didnt quite feel like laquer you know? I mean... its clear, dries pretty hard i suppose... but something was different. AND... it doesnt need buffing IMO. the finish I got from it was smooth and non-orange peely enough, and i dont have any compounds right now. I just need to know what kind of black paint to use, spray paint will dry fast, but would it be better to use that than model paint, just so I can stick with the same brand of paint?

[thegarehanman]

You're asking a question he's already answered. He said use acrylic. It doesn't matter if it's sprayed from an airbrush, put on with a brush, or what brand it is as long as it's acrylic.

I guess that's why auto paint and auto clear go together so well. Since auto paint dries through the evaporation of its solvent, but the clear dries through a chemical reaction, the two don't interfere with one another.

Edited November 4, 2005 by thegarehanman

[Ledzendrix1128]

You're asking a question he's already answered. He said use acrylic. It doesn't matter if it's sprayed from an airbrush, put on with a brush, or what brand it is as long as it's acrylic.

←

Yeah, i think i was in the process of typing that post when he actually posted.

[thegarehanman]

Such is life. Keep us posted on your progress. Good luck.

peace,

russ

[x189player]

I know the answer, me me! (for once)

the best paint for handbrushing over another coat of paint, with minimal worry about lifting what's underneath, is One Shot enamel. It's an old brand sold for hand-painting signs, and it's very good for putting down a smooth coat with a brush. Very forgiving, and easy to touch up with a razor blade when it's first dry- it turns into a soft rubbery coating before it finally hardens up, giving you time to go back and clean up.

Then go over the whole thing with a good water-based polyeurethane varnish- I like Diamond varathane. You will have zero problem with this reacting over anything. I like the semi-gloss finish for a non-glossy lustre that buffs nicely to the texture of vintage paint.

For One Shot sign paint, look in your local yellow pages under 'Sign Supply'. Although a much bigger part of their business nowdays is vinyl banners, suppliers like this sell the same materials to pinstripers. Here's their website, though it doesn't give much useful info.

http://www.1shot.com/products.html

But you could email them and find out who your local distributor is. It's not particularly expensive, and just great to work with. While you're there, pick up a couple pinstripers' brushes and discover how incredibly easy it is to make perfect lines when you have the right tools...

[LGM Guitars]

The one shot has the same problems over the laquer base that he's used though. I use one shot for pinstripping over base automotive paint, but if I haven't put a barrier coat of clear down first it will affect the base paint too and base automotive is a little more resiliant than laquers.

Plus, he's already said what clear he has and is planning to use, and the laquer clear he's using will attack the one shot if he sprays it on as a final clear.

[Ledzendrix1128]

I havent actually bought the laquer yet, its just im tryin to finish this whole guitar using stuff from walmart. I just plain dont like ordering stuff from the internet anymore. Although I do want a good looking finish if you guys think this enamel idea will work. I have shot primer, and red automotive duplicolor paint so far. So if you think the enamel idea is better, recommendations are much appreciated

thanks again

- Louis

[LGM Guitars]

The problem is, you have already sprayed your base color with the red duplicolor. If that is a laquer, you want to use a laquer clear, or a 2 part clear. If you are going to use enamels then do a test sample first, but it still does not solve your problem of the graphic. If you paint with ANY solvent based paint over that red, it is going to soften and lift the red. ANY solvent based paint, this includes but is not limited to..........

Laquer

Enamel

Urethane

Varathane

base urethane

etc etc etc

The ONLY way you'll get away with using any of the above paints, is if you spray a water based clear coat over the red first to seal it. Then paint your graphic, but even then you'll have to use a compatible clear for whatever paint you used for your graphic to seal that. There are lots of acrylic clears that are available from walmart type stores, just use one of them. Acrylic paints to do the graphic with will be available at almost any hobby shop.

[Maiden69]

Jeremy already answered the question, but I got one!

If you already started painting with duplicolor, why don't you finish the whole thing with the same kind? I mean, they have a mirage of colors you can choose from, and they are all compatible with each other! And you don't need to clear between coats! Just tape the design you want and spray it! It's not rocket science!

Here is a pic of one of my 1st refinish.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01047.jpg

All duplicolor, gold base, mirage gold-magenta and cranberry pearl, no clear in between coats.

[Ledzendrix1128]

Jeremy already answered the question, but I got one!

If you already started painting with duplicolor, why don't you finish the whole thing with the same kind? I mean, they have a mirage of colors you can choose from, and they are all compatible with each other! And you don't need to clear between coats! Just tape the design you want and spray it! It's not rocket science!

Here is a pic of one of my 1st refinish.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01047.jpg

All duplicolor, gold base, mirage gold-magenta and cranberry pearl, no clear in between coats.

←

Yeah this is what I most likely will end up doing, but i was talking about hand painting a pretty curvey design onto it, and tape just wont get the job done there. But I'm tryin to come up with different straigh/slightly curved designs that i can tape off. Simply due to the point you make, its compatable, and not rocket science lol. For that guitar did you just clear coat with the duplicolor clear or what?

[Maiden69]

That one got duplicolor clear.

For the curvey design you can use 1/8" 3M tape, this is what is used for most flame jobs, and a lot of overly curved grafics. Or you can go to an airbrush site and get the transparent mask plastic they sale and just place it over the guitar, use a sharpie to trace your design and with a razor blade or an exacto just cut the plastic and paint, after it is almost dry remove the plastic and clear.

[Ledzendrix1128]

oh thats awesome, cuz i think the artist i wasn gonna get to paint it is loosing her confidence... she doesnt wanna ruin it.. lol... i trie dto tell her i can just sand it off, but oh well... if i can get 1/8" tape i can do this design im talkin about. Can i get the tape at Lowe's do you think? thats the same place i got the 3/4" 3M painters tape. thanks again,

- Louis

[Maiden69]

Not this one! You will have to go to a local auto paint supplier. Autocraft might carry it. But look on the yellow pages to see which one carries HOK, if they have HOK they will definately have the tape. But if not just look around. Lowes may have tape down to 1/2" and hobby shop tape (tamiya or any other) are not good for this, they will work great on lexan but they peel out of wood or paint in a heartbeat.

[Ledzendrix1128]

sounds like i got some searchin to do, now the only debate left is... Swirled guitar finish, Taped off design of some sort, or convince my artist friend to hand paint somethin... hmmmm