Aligning Neck And Bridge

[BLADE RH4]

How do you guys go about aligning the neck and bridge or the the bridge to the neck?

I already know (almost certain anyway) that the scale length of 25.5" (Tele copy) isn't a problem, but there isn't anything to square the bridge up to as I don't think I'm going to trust the string through holes and I don't think I should trust the neck pocket either to get the neck right....

Should I be getting a luthier to fix the neck and bridge for me?

Thanks in advance

[Southpa]

Heres what I do. Just do it in the right order. I concentrate on fitting the neck first, making sure the centerline of the body and neck is clearly marked and follows through also exactly in the middle of your neck pocket. When the neck is bolted on only then will I measure where to place the bridge. Now you can work your scale length, centerline and a line across the centerline into bridge placement. If you are taking measurements from a drawing its best to double check everything and make sure it fits YOUR scale length, just in case.

Edited December 31, 2005 by Southpa

[thegarehanman]

A laser level works well for lining up the center line on the body with the center line on the neck.

peace,

russ

[Hughes]

so lets say you have your bridge, neck, and nut all on the centerline, that should make your strings 1/8" from the end of the fretboard on each side right?

[thegarehanman]

...if your neck is the right width/taper and you designed it to have 1/8" on the outside of the strings as opposed to some other arbitrary measurement, yes.

[Hughes]

my method of tapering my neck was to:

have my square neck blank, put the truss rod in, glue the fretboard on, slot the board THEN find the center line of the blank and then put the nut thickness on the center (which will cut the width in half) and do the same for the 12th fret and the end of the neck. then i would connect the dots and cut it out.

does that make sense?

im taking the thicknesses and widths from my current guitar neck***

Edited December 31, 2005 by Hughes

[thegarehanman]

The problem with taking measurements from an existing guitar is that if you use a bridge with different spacing or a different scale length, your string taper is going to change. If it's a very minor difference(by minor I mean 1/32" or less), it would be almost imperceptable.

[Hughes]

ahhh so things just got alot more difficult for me i think

sorry for being a burrden on you guys

[thegarehanman]

Just measure everything if you already cut it. You might be ok. I also neglected to consider a few things when I did my first build, but it turned out to be a really great guitar. Perhaps it's just the luck of the draw.

[Mickguard]

I second the idea of using a laser level --makes everything easier.

You'll see right away if your neck isn't straight. (I also used the laser to position the neck pocket)

And you'll know whether your bridge is going to work before you drill --sight along both E saddles to their nut slots.

[BLADE RH4]

Thanks guys for the advice. it's much appreciated. I'll see if I can get myself a laser level from the hardware store tommorow.

[Guitarfrenzy]

Like they suggested, draw everything out starting with the bridge string spacing, nut width, and scale length. Like the diagram I did below. This was taken from from my post in this thread but it applies here.

First I started off by drawing a perfect centerline that will be a center guide for everything else I draw. Basically you find the string spread for your bridge your using, and the width of the nut you want to use. Measure out the scale length your going to use.. in my case it is 25". Draw out the bridge and nut perfectly centered and distance wise. Now at the nut draw two lines from the outside edges 1/8" in. This is the optimal place for the strings, any closer and you'll have problem with the string falling over the fretboard. Next I drew two lines on the bridge that is the string spread. In my case (2" string spread), I just measured 1" from the centerline and made two marks from each side where the bridge is. Now all you have to do is draw lines to connect the bridge to the nut on each side of the neck, using the two marks you made at the nut and two that you made at the bridge string spread. Now starting from the nut at each end draw a 1/8" line away from the lines you just drew and that is your neck taper.

Matt Vinson

[Guitarfrenzy]

I've been using a laser level since I first started building, simply because it doesn't lie to you.. lol If your build is off, then you'll see instantly. But if you use it to align everything before routing begins, then you will assure youself of a properly aligned guitar when finished. Here's a picture of me using it to check everything before the neck was glued into place. You can't see it in the picture but there is a very small center mark drawn out on the nut area, and at the heel area. I use the center of the body and shine the laser so that it hits all the marks and centers each dot marker also. You should also check to see if you measure the same amount of distance to each side of pickup cavity.

Thankfully, everything checked out good, so I could go ahead and glue the neck in place. It just gives you the peace of mind knowing that everything will be aligned properly. Good luck.

[BLADE RH4]

Thanks for that Matt.

[Hughes]

do you cut out that drawing and stick it on your blank as a template?

Either way, is it a good idea to do that^?

[Guitarfrenzy]

Thanks for that Matt.

←

No problem bro. I just posted it so you could see illustrations of what everyone else was talking about. I hope it helped.

do you cut out that drawing and stick it on your blank as a template?

Either way, is it a good idea to do that^?

←

Close. What you do is use it to build your template of the neck. That way you can get it perfect. It's easier sanding a 1/4" template and getting it perfect than a piece of hardwood that's thicker. Then with your perfect template you can cut out the neck accurately. If you need any help on using templates I could explain more detail. Good luck.

Matt Vinson

[Hughes]

actually thats good enough thanks alot. that really helped

[BLADE RH4]

Thanks for your help guys. The string thru holes didn't line up against the Fender Am Std bridge properly so I got a local luthier to do this part. He also levelled the frets and cut the nut for me. He did a 100% pro job on it, so I'm pretty happy. I do want to learn this stuff for myself, I got to get some of the right tools.