Bill Jehle's Logo Technique

[smileynumber13]

Just wondering, would this technique work on the body? And would it work over stain? Also, would poly or nitro be more adviseable for over this? Thanks.

And you know, it'd be really nice if someone would answer. It will take you like 30 seconds to say yes or no. You don't even need full sentences. Thanks.

Edited January 31, 2006 by smileynumber13

[Arseneau]

I've done it several times using polyurethane and it's always worked fine. You can use it over whatever stain/dye you're using since the label doesn't touch the stain (at least the way I've done it). As long as the clear coat is compatible with the stain and the label is compatible with the clear coat, the stain and label won't interact and you should have no problems.

Lay down 3 or 4 coats of your clear, set the label into the last one while still wet. Once it dries, continue with clear coats until the label blends seemlessly into the surrounding finish. Can't see why it wouldn't work the same on the body.

Just a side note: I had the whole logo printed rather than doing it like in the tutorial (just the black outline and filling in with metallic pens). The pen just seemed like one more chemical that could react adversely to me...also consider poking pin holes in the logo to let the clear seep through and avoid air bubbles. The holes are invisible once you get the clear over top. Anyway, test on scrap.

In regards to nitro, never tried it, can't say.

Edited January 31, 2006 by Arseneau

[GuitarGuy]

Im more partial to decal printing. You can get decal paper from hobby shops. Once its prined on the paper you have to seal it with a sealer. The end product is exactly the same as the decals that come with plastic models.

The bonus of this paper is it conforms to curves better than the transparency film and it is very thin (thinner than a cigarette paper) so your clear will need very minimal leveling before buffing.