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Posted (edited)

3/4" is fine if you scarf the headstock and use a fretboard(or a skunk stripe). I don't think you can get away with a fender style neck with a 3/4" board, although I've never had the urge to build a neck like that, so I can't speak from experience. I have one neck I made that's a hair thicker than .75" thick. Although, that neck has a normal single action truss rod made from a piece of metal rod, so it doesn't require as deep a route as a hot rod. Normally I aim for about .8, unless I want a baseball bat for whatever reason.

Edited by thegarehanman
Posted

Just figure out what all of your thicknesses will be(ie fretboard, neck wood, truss rod), and allow at least 1/8" behind the truss rod. Just have a thickness calipers handy while you're carving. The martin style rods are the halfround pieces of pipe with an internal rod, correct? How well do those work?

Posted

My guitar necks usually check in at 0.88 to 0.9 finished thickness (neck + fingerboard).

Neck thickness is a very personal thing, so go find one you love, measure the thickness, and shoot for that. As long as your fretboard is thick enough, you can certainly use a 0.75" blank for the neck.

Posted

My latest pair (a strat and a tele neck..well, both the same, really) used HotRods and 3/4" thick stock. There's absolutely no room for error with stock that thin, and no extra wood to remove if it's not quite straight, but coupled with a 1/4" fingerboard, that worked out just fine.

Posted

I taper the neck with a template and router, rough in the and fine tune the heel and headstock transitions with various half round rasps, then connect the two carves with a spokeshaved. Then I breifly go over the whole thing with 180 grit sandpaper by hand or an orbital sander to smooth it out and get everything even. I do any final fine tuning with various scrapers. You don't need all of these tools to make a neck though.

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