whitey Posted April 10, 2006 Report Posted April 10, 2006 i've been planning a build for a while,probably going to be a nice 2 humbucker rg with flamed maple top red stain finish with a bubinga body now i was thinking of binding,then i thought about a rim imagine hollowing out,but only down a millimetre,then adding a .60mm veneer,wich will be shaped ant will fit in the recces/chamber and sand rim flush,there will be a bubinge''binding'' around the veneer i was wondering if there will be any problems with this? apart from staining veners that thin will result in curling/warping? its just an idea i would like to try out thanks for the input Quote
fryovanni Posted April 10, 2006 Report Posted April 10, 2006 If I follow you. The tuff part of doing that will be getting that close to the edges evenly and accurately. It has been done, but I believe it was done by CNC. It is an outstanding effect. Peace,Rich Quote
j. pierce Posted April 10, 2006 Report Posted April 10, 2006 There was some discussion of what you're discussing here. Thorn guitars did something similar (with a thicker top than a veneer) on many of his pieces (with CNC, I believe) and there may have been some further discussion on the board about it here. I imagine if you going to do an "inlayed top" idea like that, it might be easier to work with something thicker than a veneer. If you were going to go with something as thin as a veneer, I wonder if you couldn't get almost the same effect by carefully filing a bevel through the veneer - make the angle of the bevel shallow enough and it wouldn't really be noticable as a bevel, but you'd cut through the veneer rather quickly - it'd be work to get the line to flow smoothly, but wouldn't it look relatively the same? I imagine in practice this might be annoyingly difficult to get right, but I'm just spouting ideas. Quote
brian d Posted April 11, 2006 Report Posted April 11, 2006 If you were going to go with something as thin as a veneer, I wonder if you couldn't get almost the same effect by carefully filing a bevel through the veneer - make the angle of the bevel shallow enough and it wouldn't really be noticable as a bevel, but you'd cut through the veneer rather quickly - it'd be work to get the line to flow smoothly, but wouldn't it look relatively the same? I imagine in practice this might be annoyingly difficult to get right, but I'm just spouting ideas. Thats what I did here. http://www.badongo.com/pic/148414 It's a flame maple veneer (from Brian, our host) over padouk (the light wood at the top is actually padouk sapwood that was in the board). I think the effect is pretty good. Brian. Quote
whitey Posted April 11, 2006 Author Report Posted April 11, 2006 thanks guys,this has really helped looking at brian d's work i definatly want to try it, i was hoping not to use a thicker top,even though it makes sense,and the bevel idea also makes sense,its going to be harder i'll try it out with some of my scraps i have lying about,i'll just head on over to that thread and continue the discussion lol but if my testers go a sucses,or even fail i'll post some pics up thanks guys Quote
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