Veneer Top, 3-D Stain, Clear Coat....coming up

[Gresh]

Howdy everyone....new comer here but I recognize many of you from Jemsite.

At any rate, I have a long drawn out project that is finally coming to fruition. Here's the gist of it:

RG7 Basswood body...already stripped

Ibanez LA Custom Shop Neck from Dino Cazares (also stripped of paint, except headstock)

All black hardware

Two sets of veneer coming next week, couldn't decide which one so I ordered both. One is a premium peanut quilt, the other is more like a ripple curl/quilt. Both are full sheets that will cover the entire body without a bookmatch, with enough left over the do the headstock.

I plan on doing Kevan's 3-D tutorial to the letter. However, would it make more sense to use one of those vacuum bags to really get that veneer down tight? Or is the sand bag trick good enough? What are the pro's and con's to using the vacuum bags. Will the veneer split if it is cut larger than the actual body (due to the bag pulling the edges down too sharply)?

Is it necessary to use a sanding sealer prior to staining to prevent the grain from raising with water based stain?

Next ?: Once stained, is there a need to use a sanding sealant prior to clear coating?

Next ?: For clear coating, I have heard of folks running down to an auto refinishing shop and having them clear it. Is this a good idea or not, how about the fine sanding between coats...is that not necessary if professionally coated in a booth and dried in an oven? Any suggestions should I elect to tackle that myself, what brands/type of clear coat should I use and how difficult is it really?

I want to get this going as soon as the veneer arrives, I've been putting it off too long and I just need to jump into it with both feet....but I don't want to ruin it either. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Gresh

[Gabe Nickelson]

Dude, where did you get your veneer at? Did you get a chance to see a picture of it before you bought it? Veneer is the only thing holding up my project and no one in Houston carries figured maple in stock.

Gabe

[Gresh]

Hey Gabe,

I ordered from www.flamingoveneer.com

They have photos online of each lot that they get. Call them and they will tell you if each sheet is representative of the photo. THere are three magnificent lots of quilt they have now, the most expensive being $6.50 per sq. ft.

THey also have some nice curly maple right now.

If you want to wait a week or so, I can let you know how accurate the online photos are based on my order's appearance.

I was very specific as to my requirements regarding sheet size and orientation of the figuring and they didn't even bat an eye...I guess they are used to picky people. At any rate, stay tuned and I'll let you know how it looks in person once it hits the door.

[Brian]

My own experiance is with the sand bag's alone, but I have seen others use the vacuum bags with great care.

The only thing about the bags you really need to worry about is movement (easier to deal with on the sandbag method).

First cut the veneer as close to the body outline as possible because overhang will turn out to be a big problem, then of course to avoid sliding you need to pin it down using thumb tacks which you can easily fill the holes after the glue has dried.

If your going to use a water based stain and you get to much on the veneer and it pulls off the body don't panic you can always grab an iron and tack the veneer back down as long as theres glue underneath.

I wouldn't use a sanding sealer before staining................actually I don't use it all these days on this type of finish. It does help as a build up to getting the surface flat and smooth but if your doing the 3D tutorial you'll already take care of any tiny bur's that raise up in the grain when you sand it for the second and third coats.

[Gresh]

Thanks Brian, Sounds like the sand bag route is the way to go for simplicity, plus I already have a big bag of it from our last snow.

How about clear coating it once the staining is finished. Sand throughs make me nervous and I read where some folks run the body up to an auto body shop with a booth and have them clear it for them. Your opinion on that?

[Brian]

If I could find one at a reasonable price I would concider it.

My thoughts are they would also bake the finish which could cause a problem with the glue softening below the veneer causing it to bubble. Spooky thought huh