N00b Questions

[f2droc]

A while back i got frustrated that a simple short caused a pickup of a Jackson I have to stop working and I had no idea what to do. So I decided to get an old junker from a pawnshop and take it apart, put it back together and learn a few things. But then realized that for a few bucks more I could get a saga kit and put the whole thing together.

I should be getting the LP kit soon. I've read through reviews that they seem to be hit and miss and to check that everything fits before finishing which just seems logical. Most of my questions, at least for now, are about the finishing process. Please keep in mind that if you got tcp/ip, protools or mpeg questions I'm your man but painting and woodworking, I don't know anything aboot.

I'm in no hurry to finish this. It's just for fun and personal knowledge. I do expect it to take me a few months

The top is supposed to be flamed maple. I would like to make it see-through black. I sort of want to recreate the look of my LTD EC-1000 Black Cherry but black instead of red (Or well grey in that case I guess)

Idealy I would do the see-through black for the front and just do solid black for the back, sides and neck.

I've been reading a bit and it seems relatively simple. There are just a few things that aren't clear to me yet.

I'm thinking of following this.

http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/bridge...e_guitar01.html

It seems RELATIVELY simple (No words that I don't understand at least) and the end result is exactly what I want (well, not blue)

Here are my questions

The top of the guitar being arched, is sandblocking going to be a problem? Should I be careful in the type of block I choose?

I've read that the tops are sealed on these Saga guitars. Am I right to think that an alcohol based dye will work? Am I right to think that a water based dye won't?

Can someone point me to a good general painting 101? I understand the concept of some woods needing to get their grain filled but why does it work if if a sealant has been applied. Or does it?

I am in and I believe that Reranch cannot ship aerosols internationally. Anyone have ideas where I could get supplies to do this? I might be able to get the dye from Reranch but the sealer and lacquer I doubt I can get from them. Not to mention the paint for the back and sides. I've been practicing of scrap wood with Canadian Tire paint with better results then I expected

Thanks

[mikhailgtrski]

The top of the guitar being arched, is sandblocking going to be a problem? Should I be careful in the type of block I choose?

I've read that the tops are sealed on these Saga guitars. Am I right to think that an alcohol based dye will work? Am I right to think that a water based dye won't?

For a carved top, a foam rubber backing pad works (available at autobody supply houses).

Aniline dyes (both alcohol and water based) will not work on sealed wood. I'd say you could sand off the sealer, down to bare wood, except it's most likely a thin veneer... probably next to impossible to remove all the sealer without ruining the veneer. You're better off spraying tinted clearcoats.

Mike

[f2droc]

The top of the guitar being arched, is sandblocking going to be a problem? Should I be careful in the type of block I choose?

I've read that the tops are sealed on these Saga guitars. Am I right to think that an alcohol based dye will work? Am I right to think that a water based dye won't?

For a carved top, a foam rubber backing pad works (available at autobody supply houses).

Aniline dyes (both alcohol and water based) will not work on sealed wood. I'd say you could sand off the sealer, down to bare wood, except it's most likely a thin veneer... probably next to impossible to remove all the sealer without ruining the veneer. You're better off spraying tinted clearcoats.

Mike

Thanks!

Could the sealer be taken off chemicaly?

[mikhailgtrski]

I've heard it's a very tough sealer... I'm guessing you'd damage the veneer in the process of chemical stripping.

Plus, thin veneers generally don't accept dye very well. Not much wood there to absorb the dye, and the glue used to attach the veneer soaks into the wood fibers to some degree.

[Mickguard]

I tried a transparent black on my last guitar...I'm pretty disappointed with the results. It was a dark wood to begin with, so that might be why it didn't work out so well. But there's not much transparent about it...you have to look pretty closely to see the grain.

The problem with the kit is that you won't have any scrap to test things out on...otherwise, that StewMac tutorial is excellent, it's pretty much what you need to know.

Most of the time, people want to show off the flamed maple, and I don't think black is the best way to do that. Personally, all that flame stuff bores me...makes guitars look like they've come out of a kit

[mikhailgtrski]

Personally, all that flame stuff bores me...makes guitars look like they've come out of a kit

Ahem... I resemble that remark!

[f2droc]

I tried a transparent black on my last guitar...I'm pretty disappointed with the results. It was a dark wood to begin with, so that might be why it didn't work out so well. But there's not much transparent about it...you have to look pretty closely to see the grain.

The problem with the kit is that you won't have any scrap to test things out on...otherwise, that StewMac tutorial is excellent, it's pretty much what you need to know.

Most of the time, people want to show off the flamed maple, and I don't think black is the best way to do that. Personally, all that flame stuff bores me...makes guitars look like they've come out of a kit

Alright. It seems as though the transparent thing is not the best idea for this. Maybe later. I`ll probably be going with a solid black. Or white, if i can get gold hardware that fits. Thanks a lot

[f2droc]

I got the kit today. As I was told the veneer is really thin. And even if that wasn't the case the flamed top is not really impressive. So I'll be going black. I checked and the neck fits in nicely in the pocket. Some holes indeed seem to be out of place but not by much. I can probably fix it

I got a couple of scrap pieces of maple to play around with first. I went around a few stores today and I can't seem to find any Nitro-based paint or lacquer. I hear poly's are ok but I'm having a hard time finding out what's what.

I got a can of this lying around that i got a while ago for a piece of foam I had to paint

http://www.krylon.com/main/product_templat...product_details

I tried it on a scrap piece of maple. I have to put a few more coats on but it looks ok. Nothing tells me if it's poly or whatever.

I think I can find this ( I seem to be somewhat limited in brands around here but Krylon seemed to have a lot of variety) Would it be ok as a clear coat?

http://krylon.com/main/product_template.cf...product_details

And one more question

Has anyone ever used Latex paint? Seems simple to do and they seem to have it in arctic white, which is cool.

Thanks a lot

Edited May 25, 2006 by f2droc

[Mickguard]

Has anyone ever used Latex paint? Seems simple to do and they seem to have it in arctic white, which is cool.

Time for you to start reading! Hit up the finishing section --have a look through the tutorial section too. Do a search for latex while you're at it, you'll drop that idea fast enough

Also, if I'm correct, the flame won't seem impressive until you start finishing it --I believe if you wipe it down with naptha, you'll get a better idea of what it's going to look like. That'll help you decide. As for the transparent thing--I'm guessing that there must be a specific method for achieving that, at least with black paint.