Is This Possible? Flying V Related

[Sabu2k1]

I want to have my Flying v be string thru body like the Dean Vs

http://www.guitarhangar.com/guitars/images...enker_77_fb.jpg

Here is my V

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/4233/my...v1before7mx.jpg

Is it possible to do that? what tools and supplies would I need? I know I have to cover up the stop tail holes and need bondo and re paint the guitar, but what do I need to accomplish this mod?

Thanks

[Mattia]

In theory, yes, it is. I'd look for a string plate like on the Dean, so you can just cover the stop tailpiece holes instead of having to deal with a refinish (which is a PITA, major, IMO not worth the hassle. It's not like the string through will magically improve your guitar a MILLION TIMES or anything).

If you can find the metal string plate/guide thing, all you really need is a drill press to drill the holes.

[Sabu2k1]

In theory, yes, it is. I'd look for a string plate like on the Dean, so you can just cover the stop tailpiece holes instead of having to deal with a refinish (which is a PITA, major, IMO not worth the hassle. It's not like the string through will magically improve your guitar a MILLION TIMES or anything).

If you can find the metal string plate/guide thing, all you really need is a drill press to drill the holes.

Just like that? THAT EASY?? I will check E-bay for some, so for the holes, I would just have to drill the holes the same size as the V plate? does it also need those metal pipe things that go into the drilled holes? and what about the space, those it matter how far the plate is?

[Mickguard]

Don't know about metal pipes ---you want string-through ferrules like these for the back.

Getting the string-through holes all lined up nicely isn't easy --you might want to practice that on scrap first, build a jig for it. And yes, use the plate to help guide the holes. Helps to have a nice long drill bit too.

As for where the jack plate goes --well, you're going to want to cover up the holes from the old tailpiece, right?

[j. pierce]

You'll want some ferrules for the back of the guitar, so the strings have something to pull against. (It would quickly chew up the wood.) Carefully mark and drill small holes lining up with the plate, (A drill press would be ideal for this to keep everything straight) being careful not to split the wood as you come out the back (clamp another piece of wood against it to prevent this) then use another larger drill bit, sized for your ferrules to enlarge the holes in the back. Make sure to use a depth stop or a piece of tape on the bit or something so that you don't go too deep. (Although in this case, "too deep" is really only "all the way through", I suppose)

If you're using a drill press, they actually make an ideal tool to press the ferrules into the holes accurately.

Depending on how small the original pilot holes are, you may have to enlarge them from the front again if they aren't large enough for the strings to pass through easily. (I usually make my initial pilot hole quite small) Making them about the same size as the holes in plate is probably a good guide.

As far as positioning the plate, I would probably worry mostly about asthetic concerns - on a standard flying V, there's probably no way to move the plate far enough back that you wouldn't have enough break angle over the bridge. If you move if forward enough, the strings may hit the edge of the bridge as the bend over it, which is supposedly not ideal (String breakage? buzzing? I'm not sure) but I've had a Gibson SG set up so this was happening for years now, with no noticable problem. (The stop-bar studs were loose, and cranking it all the way down was the only way to keep it from wobbling when I played. In retrospect, I should have just re-drilled the stud holes.)

You could set your bridge where you normally have it, and experiment with the angle of the strings coming off the bridge to the holes, see if you can place it back enough it doesn't hit the tail end of the bridge, just comes clean off the saddles, but I wouldn't worry too much. Of course, if I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will chime in.

(Looks like Mickguard beat me to the punch! Or I'm just too long-winded.)

[j. pierce]

Also, you'll probably need to remove the bushings that the tailpiece you have screws into, unless they're flush with the surface of the body.

The easiest way I've found:

Find a bolt that's the same thread as those the tailpiece screws into. (The original tailpiece bolts may work, but have not been long enough in my experience) The last bushing I pulled was a standard fine thread M8, but check whatever you've got.

Take a piece of scrap wood, and drill a hole in it large enough for the flange of the bushing to pass through. (This protects the wood from denting under force, which while usually not a problem, I have seen occur on softer bodies with thin finishes) a piece of leather or felt or cardboard or something underneath this (again with a hole in it) may also help keep the finish from scratching. (Granted, you're hiding this area under a plate, but it doesn't hurt to be careful)

Then get a socket, again, large enough for your bushing to pull up into. A large fender washer or piece of metal with a hole in it will help protect the back of your socket, particularly if the head of the bolt is small enough to fall partially into the socket, so I usually thread the bolt through this washer, then the socket. Put the hole in the wood over the bushing, and then thread the bolt/socket contraption into the bushing. As you tighten the bolt, it pulls against the washer and socket and lifts the bushing straight up. You won't damage the guitar at all trying to pry it out, or pulling at an angle or anything.

Sorry, I know you didn't ask this, but I figured it might come up, and I'm stuck at work with nothing to do today.

BTW, WD music has flying V tailpieces. (I was looking for them earlier, and Marksound posted that link)

[Sabu2k1]

Ok, THANK YOU very much for the info, it will come in handy, but right now I got a major problem, I was taking out the bushings that hold the bridge together, and I accidently dropped the wrong screw in the bushing and started to tighten the bigger screw that holds the tailpiece, then I realised the bushing wasen't lifting, turns out the screw was too long and got stuck, so now all work is halted until I can get that last bushing out, which looks like a pain to do, its really stuck in there, any suggestions?

Edited May 29, 2006 by Sabu2k1

[j. pierce]

It threaded in okay until you hit the bottom? You can't just turn the bolt back out? Or did you crossthread a bolt that didn't really fit in there so much that it's stuck?

Is it the screw or the bushing that's stuck here? If it's simply this bushing that's still stuck (i.e., the screw was bottoming out rather than lifting up the bushing, because the head of it never got down far enough to pull up against anything) just retry with a shorter bolt, or use some sort of spacer (two sockets? extra washers?) so that the head of the bolt has something to pull against.

Also, you mention the bridge - is this just a typo? I don't see why you would need to touch the bridge for this job, you'll only want to take out the tailpiece.

I guess I'm not sure what's going on - it sounds like you may have threaded the tailpiece bolt into the bushings for the bridge?

[Mickguard]

Ok, THANK YOU very much for the info, it will come in handy, but right now I got a major problem, I was taking out the bushings that hold the bridge together, and I accidently dropped the wrong screw in the bushing and started to tighten the bigger screw that holds the tailpiece, then I realised the bushing wasen't lifting, turns out the screw was too long and got stuck, so now all work is halted until I can get that last bushing out, which looks like a pain to do, its really stuck in there, any suggestions?

I'm having trouble picturing what you mean.

When I've taken bushings out, I just screw the posts all the way into the inserts, protect the surface with some packing foam or cardboard or whatever and use a clawhammer to lift the stud out with gentle pressure. They're not glued in or anything (most likely) so they'll just slip right out.

So you tried to put a different screw in there? Could you post a photo (with better light than the other one you posted)

[Ben]

Wont the pickguard get in the way of the V-shaped tailpiece thing?

From your pic it looks like the V-shaped tailpiece will overlap over the control cavity.

[Sabu2k1]

Ok, heres what happened, no pics since I don't have a camera.

I was taking out the bushings that the tailpiece would go over, ( i know the pickguard is in the way, but im getting custom one made since the pickguard covers to much part of the body)

anyway

the screw I put in there to help the bridge screw create pressure on got stuck and the bridge screw cannot go in to create pressure, its really stuck in there. I need to find a way to take out the bushing, maybe some sort of clamp?

Edited May 30, 2006 by Sabu2k1

[Mickguard]

the screw I put in there to help the bridge screw create pressure on got stuck and the bridge screw cannot go in to create pressure, its really stuck in there. I need to find a way to take out the bushing, maybe some sort of clamp?

So there IS a screw in there? It doesn't have to be in deep, just in there enough to grip the threads.

Try using a clawhammer --like I said, make sure you protect the surface. You can use a block of wood to raise the hammer up higher off the surface of the guitar to give you the leverage you need.

Really, as long as the insert wasn't glued in, it should slip out without too much effort.

[Sabu2k1]

Thanks for the replys, I got the darn bushing off, but it suffers a couple of battle scars, I fitted the gold bridge and it looked awesome, so I decided to leave it like that..I'll just buy a Dean or a body off ebay and do that.

Thanks for the help, and sorry about the change of mind, il post pics when I get a cam

[Mickguard]

Thanks for the help, and sorry about the change of mind, il post pics when I get a cam

Hey, it's your guitar. Glad you found something that works for you.