blakeish Posted June 20, 2006 Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 Hello, I am seeing alot of discussion against water-based, nitrocellulose(sp?) laquers. My original "plan" was to use the finishing tutorials/ schedule found on Stew-Mac. The guitar I am planning to refinish was some cheapo I grabbed in an Ebay auction, you know, in case I ruined it completely The body is alder, and I just wasn't able to hang with that puke yellow butterscotch blonde color, otherwise, its an okay playing/sounding Tele. after disassembling the new toy, i discovered some of the best that budget factory guitar bulding has to offer...epoxy paste in control cavities so screws shot through wood into the body could serve their purposes, the string ferrules in the back....yeah, not a straight line. etc etc. best part is the neck holes are each drilled twice? for what rason im not sure.... anyways, i ramble..... i used Stripeeze to take off the paint, and hopefully the finish. and my only guess is that what didnt come up, was the hazy sealant under the top/ color coat. Im planning on painting this thing stark white, white as snow, pearly whites, could white, you get the idea. I sanded off the sealer (difficult. and i later learned, unneccessary?) and now I am at the bare wood all over. I lost minimal/no dimension because thankfully im very careful and meticulous when i sand. I keep reading about polyurethane. I am assuming what thegarehanman keeps referring to (as far as danger is concerned) is an automotive grade clear. I picked up a tip on a certain poly that apparently someone uses to make their costly mandolins... EmTech 9300 Polycarbonate Urethane: Gloss (as I've read) is "Formulated as a final topcoat for high-end applications such as yacht interiors, automotive interiors, fine tabletops and musical instruments." So does a poly like this carry the same striking dangers and an automotive top coat? I'm assuming if it's used in furniture building and etc, then perhaps the 15+ year old booth at work would suffice?(its very clean and the filters and fans are always kept up, maetenience wise) no full body suits at the shop, but there's a good respirator and nice gun. and as far as the painting process goes im going to probably re-seal (*sigh* silly me for sanding it in the first place) the wood with epoxy and start building my white coats. I'm going to safely assume I can just coat, sand, recoat as needed until a nice shiny white is on the guitar.....and then start applying (spray sand buff etc included) the poly coats? I guess, after all this rambling (my apologies) I'm mainly wondering....certain type of paint to use? reranch rattle cans would do the trick? I shrug my shoulders, and leave it to the forum. again sorry for such a huge post hehe. thanks to anyone who can shed some light. cheers and everyone have a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted June 20, 2006 Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 Well, looking at that site, I can't tell whether or not it contains cyanoacrylates, which is the most dangerous ingredient in the poly you refer to. It has a voc rating of only .5lbs/gal, which is about 1/8 of what poly's have, so that's a plus. It also contains zero Hazardous Air Pollutants, which lead me to believe that it infact does not contain cyanoacrylates. However, I am by no means an expert. I would recomend you put a call into the company making it. If it doesn't having anything seriously harmfull, I'd give it a try. Infact, I might have to try this stuff myself...a chemically curing finish that isn't(read: might not be) harmfull for one's health, who'da thunk it. At $25 for a quart of finish, that's nearly half of what I'm paying for poly. Good find man! EDIT: Yes, reranch rattle cans would work find. Granted, they may not be quite as durable as most other finishes, but I've certainly seen plenty of nice guitars finished with spray cans. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 Anyone else want to give this a second opinion? I'm certainly no expert on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 I took a peak at the MSDS. It certainly appears to be good in terms of little hazards. I couldn't find the application info (maybe I just missed it). The real big thing for me with waterbased finishes. Is how well it will burn in. Again I couldn't find the 100% burn in claim. I would ceratinly think it is worthy of a test on some scrap. That is about the only way you can really tell how well it will perform (although waterbased finishes have come a long way and some are really quite good. They have a long history of less than brilliant results.). Edit: I should clairify. The issue with poor "burn in" is that you will get fine lines as you sand showing the layers you built up your finish. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 You're best off posting the question to the Target Coatings forum/contacting Jeff and asking some details. I believe the EmTech 9000 series is being used by some mando builders, at least, and that most folks found it was quite a bit harder than Target's USL lacquer (aka StewMac's ColorTone waterbased lacquer). Ask the manufacturer for tips re: application to ensure the best possible burn in, if it does the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakeish Posted June 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 thank you all, for your replies and information. I will put in some inquiries to the manufacturer, and see what turns up. When I mentioned the product to the guy who sprays our stuff at work, he seemed very curious about it, but not in the "that's going to possibly kill me if i spray test pieces for you blake" kinda way. I'm not sure if i should start a new topic or just ask this here......here would save some space i think.... but my plan for the body of the guitar. I want to hand paint a solid black spiderweb design on the front, and not just your standard straight lined halloween-decoration style one either....more like the tod mcfarlane spiderman stuff.....for example... (random webbing btwn the lines, although mine is far less uniform than this cover....) so i couldnt just mask it off really, and paint it.....well i could, but, that would take far more time than i think i could commit....maybe. so my question really is this, after applying the coats of white, to a point where the guitar is basically ready to finish, is detailing in, with a brush, a weblike design, an okay idea? I assume if i use a paint that the finish is able to go over, or a paint that is the same makeup as whats in the rattle can possibly.....then I could just throw on some black and call it a day, then move on.... again, thanks to any who can affirm my plan of action. hope im not asking anything silly heh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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