Automotive "house Of Kolor" Poly Finish: Wood Prep?

[Stew]

I'm going to start subbing out some paint work. My artist is used to painting flames and whatnot all over custom cars and hot rods. So he's delt with metal more than wood. I will be present to do some of the prep and in between coats/masking off work. So what could be used for a clear body (clear showing wood)? In other words, some wood grain will be showing in addition to some color coats. Can I just use any of the House of Kolor base paints? Or would I have to shellac first in order to keep the wood showing. Can I use whatever their clear coat product as a base coat, then shoot various layers over that clear coat without a funky finish reaction? Or is all that based on what % of hardener, retard, etc is used for other coats?

[GuitarGuy]

Honestly, what I would do is pore fill it with epoxy. Then clear it like you would a normal clear finish. Then the color coats and more clear. Leveling between coats.

On the first few coats the wood will just eat the clear. Within 2 or 3 coats you'll have a nice level base.

As long as you don't sand through the clear at any point. The base coat will be fine on top of it. If you have a sand through make sure to seal it with another coat of clear. Otherwise the base will try to lift the clearcoat. (I made that mistake a long time ago, might as well pass it along)

[Stew]

Cool. So I can apply epoxy just like a grain filler? (spread with a plastic card to fill the wood pores?)

[Racer X]

If you are using alder, you shouldn't have to grainfill, as it is a tighter grain, then, say ash. I just had my alder Solist body done, over the past few months, and no grain filling had to be done.

[GuitarGuy]

If you are using alder, you shouldn't have to grainfill, as it is a tighter grain, then, say ash. I just had my alder Solist body done, over the past few months, and no grain filling had to be done.

If you don't fill it. It will use way more clear to get it level first off. But it will work. Regardless whatever grain filler you try, attempt it on scrap first. I'd hate to see them react. I really think it would be fine but its better safe than sorry.

[Stew]

I think I will fill it first. He sprays very thin and I'm sure it would shrink over time. I guess polyurethane can shrink? But not like lacquer, right?

[GuitarGuy]

Yes, it will shrink but it is negligible. So don't even worry about it.

[PaintIt]

If you are using alder, you shouldn't have to grainfill, as it is a tighter grain, then, say ash. I just had my alder Solist body done, over the past few months, and no grain filling had to be done.

If you build the clear on the whole body and then smooth it you should be fine. A few light coats let to dry to seal the pours and then you could go heavier to level. You will get some die back of the clear so I would wait a couple of days before doing any painting over the clear. There is also no need for primer at this stage as long as you snad the clear well to allow for adhesion. By not using primer you will also keep the edge where you want bare wood very thin and easier to bury in the clear. My experience is with automotive uro paints on many different surfaces.