scab Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Hey, first of all, here are the pics.. I'm refinishing this and I noticed some chips on the head (1st & 2nd Photo)... I want the head to look original, but fix the chips.. I don't know if you can just buy decals or if I can sand down the clear coat and give it a couple more coats of black then clear it again or what.. this is going to be a hard build, and its going to be hard to find all of the original parts: 1) The blocks on the nut (1st pic) 2) back plates (pics 3, 4, & 5) 3) maybe new input jack (when chord is in it falls out very easy.. almost like nothing is holding it in) All input isn't just welcomed, IT'S NEEDED!! Thanks Scab P.S. More pics coming... More Pics: (these are taken of all of the scratches on the edges) These are pics of the guitar itself: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 1) The blocks on the nut (1st pic) 2) back plates (pics 3, 4, & 5) 3) maybe new input jack (when chord is in it falls out very easy.. almost like nothing is holding it in) 1. Blocks on the nut are easily found, or you could just replace the nut for about 20 dollars,you'd get all new parts. 2. They usually sell the back plates of brand new, parted-out ibanez RGs on eBay 3. 10 dollars for a barrel style flush mount jack like the one on your RG, I have an RG 7420 with the exact same problem the cord just pops out at the drop of a hat. Holy crap, I just saw that you have a kill switch on your rg7 too, i do too and in the exact same spot, weird. I'm pretty sure you can get those decals on ebay as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted August 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 The 4th pic of the second batch is a BIG problem.. Looks like someone sat on the guitar and it caved in The 3rd pic from the 3rd batch is the model # from the back of the head The 4th pic from the 3rd batch is a little crater in the neck that I'm going to sand down and make it look good.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 the cave in just needs to be filled with epoxy filler, then sanded flush after your refinish you'll be like "What cave in?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted August 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Epoxy filler?? I was going to strip all of the paint and straighten it out with a clamp then use glue and putty.. what is this "Epoxy Filler" and where can I get it?? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorOfMetal Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 just FYI, that's an RG7420 in the pics, not a 7620 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Lots of work, to restore a so so guitar. A RG 7620 would have made it your worth while, a RG 7420 I personally wouldn't have touched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted August 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Yeah your right about the 7420... The body is 7420 and the neck is 7620... How can you tell?? also could I fill the dimples in the neck with epoxy and make it look nice and see through?? I've never redid the neck, I've refinished a neck before but never redid the neck.. Thanks Scab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 if it's just a dent in the wood i think I heard somewhere that you could use steam to pop it back up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted August 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 The 4th picture in the 3rd set is gouged out.. but I'm sure some could be "steam poped"... I've got to read up on this.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slabbefusk Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 7620's had the Lo-Pro 7 trems and the 7420 had the cheap TRS ones, like the one on your specimen . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorOfMetal Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 7620's had the Lo-Pro 7 trems and the 7420 had the cheap TRS ones, like the one on your specimen . also the pickup routs are different....here's a pic of my 7620 for comparison: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slabbefusk Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Oh, I didn't know that the 7620's had the DiMarzio style ears instead of normal ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorOfMetal Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Oh, I didn't know that the 7620's had the DiMarzio style ears instead of normal ones. yeah....the stock pickups are DiMarzios (albeit, not very good ones, but DiMarzios nonetheless), so the routs are shaped to match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Pups on 7620 are just soso.....it's the Egde Lo Prp trem that makes it a priced possession. And yes, some 7420 have a 7620 neck....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted August 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2006 (edited) I used a steam iron and got all of the dents out of the neck.. It looks great.. I think tomorrow I'm going to start stripping the paint.. I might take some pictures of the neck, but I definately will take some pictures of the body after it is stripped.. Thanks for all of the input.. I didn't know this about the 7's, and also didn't know so many people were into 7-strings.. Edited August 16, 2006 by scab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted August 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2006 (edited) These are some pics of the body after being stripped.. You can see on the second pic of these I left the paint around the cavities.. I did this so none of the shielding paint would be removed by the heat gun.. The top is almost finished.. I'm still on 60 grit with a block, but getting it level is key.. For the 3rd and 4th pic I'm thinking of taking a clamp and clamping it together w/ some glue.. then leveling it off with some putty.. Here are some pics of that little spot on the neck being refinished.. I'm going to keep adding coats until it is a little over level and thensand it down with some 1000 grit or 1500 grit.. Then get it level and polish it.. Its going to take a loooooong time to get it level though.. Edited August 18, 2006 by scab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted September 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Ok the chipped part didn't really work out all well.. (kinda crashed and burned). So I stripped the paint on the headstock and ordered a decal (black).. I was thinking of the paint as Pearl White.. Tell me how you think this would look.. The biggest thing I've been working on and having problems with is that spot on top of the body that looks like someone sat on it.. This one... any ways I took a clamp and glued all around it and clamped it as best as I could.. after that I started filling with putty and it dried and I sanded it flat.. Then I noticed some cracks in the putty so I reputtied it pushing the putty down into the spots as best as I could.. Then after it dried, for the second time I sanded it.. STILL CRACKS.. So I'm going to take one more shot at the putty and then try whatever else you guys may recommend.. I thought of using some epoxy like someone said earlier.. So any replies are welcome.. Thanks, Scab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Then after it dried, for the second time I sanded it.. STILL CRACKS.. What kinda putty are you using. No decent car repair type putty must crack when drying. Some still dry-in a little....but cracks???? Although I never used it before......this type of filler seems to work wonders: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht2.htm PC woody epoxy filler: http://www.pcepoxy.com/woodrestoreprods.htm Don't know how deep the cavity is you want to fill, but if deep cavity, it works if filling in couple of steps. And again....fill, let dry, sand, fill, dry sand......till totally flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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