Help! Some Spots Appear A Bit More Glossy With Rattlecan Color Coa

[fyb]

Hey all . . . I'm using Duplicolor for the color coat on my strat repainting project. I just finished putting the second coat on, and some spots appear a little glossier than others. It's the Metal Flakes paint, and an acrylic lacquer if that helps.

I was wondering if this is going to be a problem, or will the glossiness even out with some clear coats and buffing/polishing??

If there's a bit of orange peel in the color coat, will it look more even with the clear & buffing/polishing?

Thanks for the help!

[ihocky2]

I can't really comment on the glossy spots, but the orange peel may or may not get better with layers of clear. Sometimes they fill in, sometimes not. Just keep an eye on it and if it is still there after several coats of clear(enough that you won't sand through) use 400 grit paper and sand the top flat and then keep shooting you clear coats.

The only thing I can come up with on your color coat is that either you didn't keep the can shaken enough and some areas have more flake in them or that you didn't spray evenly and that you have either more paint, or more flakes in the shiny areas. But there could also be other causes that I am not familiar with. Those are just my two guesses.

[low end fuzz]

rattle cans always create problems, because the pressure is not steady;

usually when theres a problem with the sheen; its due to scratches; wheather they are visible or not; high sheen is when the scratches are almost gone; satin is fine scratches everywhere eliminating reflecting light;

(i think i said that right)

orange peel is from a few things; if it goes on too heavy or too quik; air can get in the finish and be trapped; another cause is oil and/or silicone left under the paint;

yoiur best bet is to resand everything ; start at 220 and level everything out flat; id start to wetsand to hide any fine scratches and go as high a number (without skipping too many between) grit sa you can;

dont use steel wool; it contains oil which will effect your paint;

after that repaint it; but do the lightest coats in the world; it will prolly take 3-5 coats but you will have no runs and it will dry fast which takes away the risk of falling dust; which means no sanding and youll be left with the same color you sprayed with

[fyb]

Good info guys, thanks!

Do you think I'll screw up the metal-ly look if I do more sanding though? Maybe it won't be an issue if I put a few more coats on?

Thanks for the help!

[PaintIt]

rattle cans always create problems, because the pressure is not steady;

usually when theres a problem with the sheen; its due to scratches; wheather they are visible or not; high sheen is when the scratches are almost gone; satin is fine scratches everywhere eliminating reflecting light;

(i think i said that right)

orange peel is from a few things; if it goes on too heavy or too quik; air can get in the finish and be trapped; another cause is oil and/or silicone left under the paint;

yoiur best bet is to resand everything ; start at 220 and level everything out flat; id start to wetsand to hide any fine scratches and go as high a number (without skipping too many between) grit sa you can;

dont use steel wool; it contains oil which will effect your paint;

after that repaint it; but do the lightest coats in the world; it will prolly take 3-5 coats but you will have no runs and it will dry fast which takes away the risk of falling dust; which means no sanding and youll be left with the same color you sprayed with

I would not sand the metal flake paint. The reason is that as you sand the sandpaper cuts the flake and makes it look like a grey or white speck not a metal flake. Most flake is plastic coated with metal so you are ruining the flake. If you need to sand it should be clearcoated with enough clear to not sand through. The clear should even out the shine but will not fix any splotchy areas of flake.

Orange peel is caused by the droplets of paint drying before the are able to flow into the rest of the paint on the surface. This can be caused by to much air pressure, not enough air pressue, air temp, how fast of reducer you use, and distance. With rattle can you have little or no control over these variables.

[fyb]

I should be able to sand the clear no problem as long as I don't hit the metal flakes I'm thinking . . . I so could probably use this technique to overcome some minor orange peel, right?

Is orange peel common with rattle cans? Is it something I just need some practice to overcome?

Thanks again for all the input!!

[PaintIt]

I should be able to sand the clear no problem as long as I don't hit the metal flakes I'm thinking . . . I so could probably use this technique to overcome some minor orange peel, right?

Is orange peel common with rattle cans? Is it something I just need some practice to overcome?

Thanks again for all the input!!

Yes you can build and sand the clearcoat to get rid of the orange peel. In the end you will need to sand and polish to get it smooth anyway as painting is only part of the process.