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ihocky2 last won the day on February 15 2019

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  1. I just went back and ran the saw blade through to clean them. Do it once dry, but within 24 hours and it seemed soft enough to not chip out.
  2. This is a little late, but minimum you need a respirator with activated charcoal filters. Still not as good as a fresh air system, but better than nothing. If you have a beard, fumes will still get in. At least put a coat of vaseline on the edge to create a better seal. Nitro is flammable even once dry, but needs a source. Nitro cures by evaporation, so it does not generate it's own heat like linseed oil. But put a match to it and you'll see a nice flame. It's base component is used in gun powder to give an idea.
  3. I've done two coated fretboards, one each way. Spraying first is easier than cleaning up the frets and works well pressing in the frets, but I would be nervous hammering in case of an errant strike. Fretting first takes a little more time which is why you probably had lacquer on your Fender. They will do a nice job, but at minimal hours. Cut the edge under the fret with a sharp exacto and then scrape off the fret. Once dry the lacquer comes off the fret easily and cleanly.
  4. Any reason on a neck that wide you are using a single truss rod instead of two? Not that two are always needed, but with that much room I would have done two just two allow for more adjustment on each side.
  5. I love it. I like the lines carrying through the body, but do agree with AD on keeping the headstock dark.
  6. I’ve never been a big LP fan, but i like this one. The wood looks nice, I like the carves and I love the shape of the F holes.
  7. Light weight and easy to work usually don’t describe ash, you definitely got lucky on that piece. I did a thinline Tele from ash years ago that is light after then chambering but was hell on tools. My work bench is mostly ash and the thing weighs a ton. Before you settle on a set neck, make sure to do some trial fit up. Make sure you like the fret access and still have enough wood for side support.
  8. I would venture a guess that the dealer should still be there. There is a nice thread or tutorial about painted taped off patterns, the main point was heavily thinning and getting color with minimal build. I think you want the color ratio to be based against the thinned volume of lacquer, not pre-thinned. That will increase the ratio of color to lacquer. At worst I would try some different mixes on scrap. practice is the best tool. When I switched to poly it was learning all over again and then going to an HVLP gun I had to change me entire technique.
  9. I’ve done the small buffs in a drill for inside the horns. Works great but watch where the nut on the buff is and where the drill chuck are. I won’t say how I know that. No need to fear with the boiled linseed oil rags. The problem comes with them piled or wadded up. Hang them out to dry and they are fine. The heat builds up are the oil cures, if they have surface area to let off the heat then they just dry. Piles of rags builds up and holds a lot of heat.
  10. Sounds like spraying too heavy still. I think more of it is coming from being unthinned. Your are laying down a lot more solids which is the heavy part, causing the runs. I would try thinning 50%. Especially with the color coats you are looking for something to carry and bind the color, not necessary build thickness. Also watch your distance to the work surface, lighter coats up close don’t disperse as much and will lay down heavier. Remember your 50% overlap patterns, even with the Preval.
  11. Remember, your best tuning stability comes from straight string pulls between the nut and the tuners. Once you have a full scale drawing it will be easier to tell where everything falls.
  12. Either using the dye in alcohol and dying the wood like Mike said or think about mixing the dye into some lacquer for a translucent finish. Use a few light coats to seal the wood and then spray the color coats. By sealing first you eliminate the blotching problems. Ive never used paulownia, but if it is soft like poplar just be careful until you finish it. I’ve done several poplar bodies and they dent just looking at them in the raw state. You’d be amazed how much harder they get once they soak up some finish though.
  13. It’s been a few years that life got in the way of my building and playing, but am starting back at both again. I don’t get to play everyday, sometimes not every week, my strings seem to corrode pretty quickly from just sitting, will coated strings help extend their life. Being double the cost of regular strings, should I expect double the life or more? With so many brands offering coatings now, are any better than others? i don’t gig, I don’t record, right now it’s just building my chops back up so tone is not my highest priority. Feel, playability, and string life are more important right now.
  14. That’s pretty much the same way I do blade slots. A template and small router but would be nice, but I always feel more comfortable with hand tools for precision work.
  15. I believe that one at Home Depot is nitro, best way to tell is the label. It should list cellulose nitrate if it is nitro. Remember with rattle cans to only use about 50% of the can, after that you get more solvent and propellant which leads to more orange peal. Nitro being harder than poly is actually easier to wet sand. Poly is soft and tears when sanded, nitro is harder and the sand paper cuts, seems counterintuitive. Spend a little more on the spray gun and you can use a 30 gallon air compressor or maybe less. Look at the mini-HVLP guns, they use low CFM’s. DeVilbiss makes nice ones, I have a Finex 1000 made by Sharpe that I love. A good gun makes a world of difference in the final finish. I started with a cheap one and learned the hard way; but once, cry once.
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