Good Grain Filler

[Angus89]

I am looking for a new grain filler what I have used in the past I got wich was from reranch wich was a bitch and half to get off so I need something easy get off and even if I don't get it all off I don't want it to show through a translucent finish.

[Daniel Sorbera]

Epoxy works great. Just don't let it dry on the surface or it will be very hard to sand off.

[Drak]

Anything you decide to use will take time to understand how to get best results.

The only time you find something 'easy' is when you understand how to use it properly.

Epoxy is great, but if you don't know how to use it, it's -quite- difficult, same as with everything else you might try.

Different grain fillers that I'm aware of:

2-part epoxy

CA glue

Waterbased pore filler

Oilbased pore filler

Pumice

Sanding sealer

Lacquer

Polyurethane

Polyester

Glass beads

Out of the bunch listed, every single one has serious downsides if you don't understand how to use it the right way.

In your words, every single one can be a bitch to work with.

And every single one will work if you know how to use it properly.

I know this sounds like doublespeak and not a real answer, but it is really the correct answer.

Tell us what kind of pore filler you were using, what kind of problems you had with it, what kind of wood you're applying it to (pics would help) ...and we'll see if we can help you use it better, or choose another that would be more suitable for your kind of wood.

We also need to know what kind of finish you intend to put over it, I know you said a transparent finish, but lacquer, poly, what exactly.

[jtmullet]

I have used the stogh from reranch it's called bartleys and yeah it's a bitch.

Edited November 12, 2006 by jtmullet

[Desopolis]

is the epoxy the same stuff you use for inlays drak?

EX: I bought some black epoxy for my ebony boards inlays, can I use the same epoxy for a grain filler?

[Stew]

I'm using the waterbased Stew Mac stuff right now (clear). I'm having a similar problem. Although it is very easy to use, I'm having trouble filling the pores. I'm filling mahogany pores and on my 3rd coat am still having problems with pores still present.

The can instructions recommend brushing on, waiting between 2-5 minutes, scrap off filler at a 45 degree angle to pores, wipe off excess filler with a clean soft cloth, wait 2 hours to dry before sanding with a 320 grit. I've done this to the "T" and still showing pores. I could understand the long process if this were swamp ash or oak, but geez.

Do you guys think it's lifting up out of the pores as I flat sand?

Sorry to pirate your thread. BTW, I've used the Bartley's from Reranch and yeah it's like working with gorilla snot. Plus eventhough it says "natural" on the can, it still opaques the pores like you filled it with liquid soap. Tried it, and hated it. One year later, it still shrank into the pores slightly and you can see some slight pores in the finish, not bad but I know it's there. You can't tell from 2 feet away.

[Daniel Sorbera]

I'm using the waterbased Stew Mac stuff right now (clear). I'm having a similar problem. Although it is very easy to use, I'm having trouble filling the pores. I'm filling mahogany pores and on my 3rd coat am still having problems with pores still present.

The can instructions recommend brushing on, waiting between 2-5 minutes, scrap off filler at a 45 degree angle to pores, wipe off excess filler with a clean soft cloth, wait 2 hours to dry before sanding with a 320 grit. I've done this to the "T" and still showing pores. I could understand the long process if this were swamp ash or oak, but geez.

Do you guys think it's lifting up out of the pores as I flat sand?

I hade the same problem with that stuff. I just didn't seem to fill the pores. Right now I'm using epoxy for the clear stuff and this minwax two part paste for the black stuff. They fill the grain much better than the stewmac stuff. I only need to apply one coat of the minwax on wenge and it fills it -perfectly-

[mammoth guitars]

Same here on the Stewmac waterbased filler, it takes 5-6 coats on Mahogany to get it flat. The JE Mossers is better but it still takes about 4 coats - however it powders up nicely when sanding unlike the SM filler.

[AlGeeEater]

I like the waterbased Stew-Mac stuff because I can cure it REALLy fast in the heatbox, it sands real well but it takes forever to fill mahogany. I can usually fill mahogany in 2 hours doing coats every 30 minutes.

Chris

[slor]

I like the waterbased Stew-Mac stuff because I can cure it REALLy fast in the heatbox, it sands real well but it takes forever to fill mahogany. I can usually fill mahogany in 2 hours doing coats every 30 minutes.

Chris

I'm having the same issue with mahogany; it seems to take multiple coats to fill the pores.

Here's a question: How far back do you have to sand the grain filler? Obviously if you're staining the wood you want it sanded back to wood (minus the pores of course). But if you're just proceeding with finishing, couldn't you leave the grain filler somewhat rough in the knowledge that sanding sealer and then clearcoats will even it out? (I'm using waterbase grain filler and leaving the wood natural).

Thanks,

Seth