Grimzors Posted December 7, 2006 Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 how to route a straight line?, this is turning out to be more complex then it should be, no one told me that the truss rod the one half of the truss rod would pop up, its like arched? i think thats normal, but either way how could i route a straight line on both side of the neck? thats prett ymuch all i need so i can install everything on the neck, if someone could give me a good diagram on a previously done LED guitar project i will love you, please reply ASAP, my freboard is sitting clamped in the garage, i dont know how long it could sit away for? thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 7, 2006 Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 Ah a little bit of planning ahead of time goes a long way.... My router came with an edge guide attachment--with that, you can at least follow the line of the neck itself. You'll have to figure out a way of holding down the neck. Spend some time working out a jig that'll help you do what you want to do. It's much easier to route on a neck blank than on an already shaped neck. I don't see any reason to worry about the fretboard (as long as the garage isn't exposed to the elements), I have a few I've taken off as practice, they're still in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 7, 2006 Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 If the trussrod is 'popping up' it sounds like it still has tension on it. Slack the nut off all the way or it'll make re-clamping the fretboard very awkward. I strongly recommend you route your slots in the fretboard not the neck, this is the normal way of installing LED or fibre optic sidedots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimzors Posted December 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 Thanks Mick, actually we just routed the lines, not the straightest ones in the world, but my dad is good at inventing when he doesnt have the tools, we just used a route and clamped the neck to an outside table i thought it would be a total disastor, i thought it would go through the bottom of the neck i was like :O!! but all in all im happy with the outcome of it, ill probably wire the lights tonight or tomorrow, we still gotta go grab some tightbond, by dad says he has some glue there but i rather be saef than sorry and use the tightbond. and i think we'll pickup an extra clamp or 2..we only have 2 right now..lol would you recommend the C- clamps as my best bet? are they expensive? etc. thanks If the trussrod is 'popping up' it sounds like it still has tension on it. Slack the nut off all the way or it'll make re-clamping the fretboard very awkward. I strongly recommend you route your slots in the fretboard not the neck, this is the normal way of installing LED or fibre optic sidedots. Well i thoguth the fretboard is way to thin, i need to install resistors as well, and those are a little bit thicker than the cable, and even if it was just cable alone, i still would not risk routing the fretboard i think its too thin, but thats my opinion on it, i might not now much about this, but i think some people would agree with me, but thanks for the input Oh and one more thing, i would not now how to tighten the truss rod some more... or how much to tighten it, would it be a problem if i just left it like that while i re-attach it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 7, 2006 Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 Yes, I already said that. If it's popping up, it'll push against the fretboard, making it difficult to get a good gluejoint. I also said you need to *untighten* (slacken, loosen) the trussrod, not tighten it. You do this by turning the adjustment end of the trussrod with an allen key or socket wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimzors Posted December 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Yea i know to untighten it, but when i have to retighten it, obviously i use th same tool to tighten it, but how much do i know to tighten it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Yea i know to untighten it, but when i have to retighten it, obviously i use th same tool to tighten it, but how much do i know to tighten it? You are going to have to set your neck up after you are finished, and that includes leveling frets(they will most likely be off after re-glue). Look at the main page and read through the setup process. It is a good tutorial that will explain the steps. straighten the neck, level and polish frets, check the nut clearance and adjust( about .005 clearance when strings are held at 2nd), hold string down at 1st and last fret, check string clearance at 7 or 8th fret, you can set the relief between flat-.015" (.008" is what I generally shoot for), Adjust saddles to set your action at the 12th fret(high E is usually around 3 or 4/64", and I add an extra .005" clearance to each larger string as I set them(b=+.005, g=+.010,d=+.015......etc...about 1.5/64ths difference from E to e). Don't mix up the order you set things up in. The saddles can't be set till you have the relief and nut dialed. Read the tutorial, it gives a better explanation and pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimzors Posted December 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Yea i know to untighten it, but when i have to retighten it, obviously i use th same tool to tighten it, but how much do i know to tighten it? You are going to have to set your neck up after you are finished, and that includes leveling frets(they will most likely be off after re-glue). Look at the main page and read through the setup process. It is a good tutorial that will explain the steps. straighten the neck, level and polish frets, check the nut clearance and adjust( about .005 clearance when strings are held at 2nd), hold string down at 1st and last fret, check string clearance at 7 or 8th fret, you can set the relief between flat-.015" (.008" is what I generally shoot for), Adjust saddles to set your action at the 12th fret(high E is usually around 3 or 4/64", and I add an extra .005" clearance to each larger string as I set them(b=+.005, g=+.010,d=+.015......etc...about 1.5/64ths difference from E to e). Don't mix up the order you set things up in. The saddles can't be set till you have the relief and nut dialed. Read the tutorial, it gives a better explanation and pictures. What if theyre leveld and fine? i mean i think it should be fine really, im getting the hiscock book tomorrow most likely the store called me and told me they had it in, so it might be in there? but if everythign looks ok i should have to touch it, and about tightening the truss rod, how much do i tighten it? but im hoping i dont have to do none of that stuff :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
another doug Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 What if theyre leveld and fine? i mean i think it should be fine really, im getting the hiscock book tomorrow most likely the store called me and told me they had it in, so it might be in there? but if everythign looks ok i should have to touch it, and about tightening the truss rod, how much do i tighten it? but im hoping i dont have to do none of that stuff :-/ Dude, a lot of this was answered in the post you quoted. As Fryovanni said, the frets will probably not be "leveled and fine." Even if they are, you will still have to perform the setup steps (from the tutorial area of the main site, projectguitar.com) in order to set the action and intonation. This is where you will find out how to use the truss rod. There is no set amount of trussrod adjustment; you just adjust it until you don't need to anymore. Read through the tutorial. It may seem daunting, but once you get the hang of it every guitar you have will play great. As far as the Hiscock book, you will never regret that purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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