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Final Guitar Design


motus

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okay, i posted a while ago, i didn't feel like spending too much time on this guitar because i'm a long way from even starting it ( might have enough money for tools and some wood in a few weeks but that's pretty much it )

the body will be chambered swamp ash, with a thick carved walnut with small but matching chambers. neck wood will probably be palisander with ebony fretboard , reinforced with carbon rods. neck joint will probably be a deep bolt on neck... screws at the cutoff and down to about the middle pickup... removing the middle pickup will show the screws.. so it should go down to about half the guitar.

pickups are going to be H-S-H ... or maybe P-90 ( or p-92 ) - Strat single ( fralin sp42? ) - fralin unbucker or something versatile.

Bridge will probably be a kahler hybrid.. or non-hybrid. ( the ability to lock it sounds nice )

here's a picture i made in photoshop, on the left the black outline is a Les paul. the grey outline was an earlier revision of my design, it was slightly too wide for my taste. i picked this texture despite the controls/pickups not matching i thought that it really gave a nice 3d effect to my shape.

people might recognize where i ripped the texture from .. http://www.jesselliguitars.com/nouveau.html ( stunning guitars )

guitarmocktexture3wx3.th.jpg

Opinions?

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Looks good. It's hard to say what it'll REALLY look like, though, other than the outline. Your planned bridge will give it a very different look. I LIKE the accidental mussed-up look to the bridge and certain other things. :D

Why go for the deep bolt-on like you're describing? Sounds to me like you might as well build a neck-through instead, no? A neck-through would almost certainly be easier to construct than the interesting bolt-on you have planned.

Greg

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well, i've seen deep pockets for set necks.. like so http://www.mcnaughtguitars.com/index15.htm ... it's pretty much the same idea except i might bolt it instead of glueing it... why not... but my logic was that i could contour the heel slightly more aggressively.

I'm planning on a fairly deep set bolt on (just a couple extra inches though), but I'll be using inserts and shorter screws and probably 5 or even 6 screws--I like the looks, I like the sound of a bolt on and I like being able to take off the neck if ever need be. The insert/short screw combination will let you carve the heel the way you like.

The mcnaught link is interesting though--while on the current neck I don't have enough wood for that heel/tenon wedge shape, why not (I'm thinking) shape an added wedge of wood that will give me the angle I need? (I'm using a wraparound bridge).

I'd be able to bolt that in between the neck and the pocket (and it'll be pretty thin, probably two millimeters at the thicker edge). That will allow me to test the angle without having to worry about getting either the pocket or the heel perfectly angled. When I'm satisfied, I could glue it on to heel. Or just leave it be and let the screws compress it in.

Since the rest of the neck should be nice and snug inside the pocket, I can't see any issues with loss of tone/sustain...(it's basically the micro-tilt system in wood, after all)

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I've just done a deep set tenon almost exactly like the McNaught one. Initially I thought about bolting it but I'm quite confident about how well everything fits & that all the angles are correct so I'm going to go with a glue joint...plus I don't have a set neck yet. Personally, I don't like the look of neck throughs which is why I've done the deep tenon.

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so this is what it would look like ( not as crappy bare with me )

boltsjo9.th.jpg

the black dots are the bolts.. they'd fall in pickup cavities so i'd only have to unscrew the pickups.. bolt-in neck i guess is what this should be called... I like the fact that i could just unbolt it and replace it if something ever breaks...

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I am in the final design stages of a solid body electric - 1 HB and bridge piezo - that looks like a spanish classical guitar. I am going to use a long tenon with a fake sound hole (actually a cover for the truss rod adjustment), which will have the tenon under neath it. It will be roughly 4-6 inches into the body. I think this allows for more stability and continuity between the neck and the body. I will scan the basic plans and post very soon. But all in all, I like the long tenon (mine will be bolted) in either set or bolt on.

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