olddog Posted May 16, 2007 Report Share Posted May 16, 2007 Hi. I just finished grain filling a mohogany and walnut test board with z-poxy, and I plan on french polishing it. My question is, do I treat the epoxy filled piece as I would bare wood and start with a wash coat of shellac and the go on to grain filling with pumace to fill any pores that may show up, or do I go straight to bodying sessions? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi. I just finished grain filling a mohogany and walnut test board with z-poxy, and I plan on french polishing it. My question is, do I treat the epoxy filled piece as I would bare wood and start with a wash coat of shellac and the go on to grain filling with pumace to fill any pores that may show up, or do I go straight to bodying sessions? Thanks If you have already filled and leveled your z-poxy you should be done with your pore fill. Pumice is another method of grain fill(which you have replaced with z-poxy). You would not want to use pumice after because you need to be able to be able to pick up a bit of dust from the wood as you polish in the pumice. A wash coat and then body sessions should be the next steps. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi. I just finished grain filling a mohogany and walnut test board with z-poxy, and I plan on french polishing it. My question is, do I treat the epoxy filled piece as I would bare wood and start with a wash coat of shellac and the go on to grain filling with pumace to fill any pores that may show up, or do I go straight to bodying sessions? Thanks I'm afraid that the epoxy may cause you a problem, not sure though? Shellac bonds to wood but does not like some types of finish (some polys dont work well with shellac, not sure about epoxy based). I have never tried to use shellac over epoxy so??? I would try this on a scrap piece first before you try it on the real thing as you might not like the reaction. Just a thought and my .02cents and I use a lot of Shellac LOL:)))IT IS My favorite finish but requires some care. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi. I just finished grain filling a mohogany and walnut test board with z-poxy, and I plan on french polishing it. My question is, do I treat the epoxy filled piece as I would bare wood and start with a wash coat of shellac and the go on to grain filling with pumace to fill any pores that may show up, or do I go straight to bodying sessions? Thanks I'm afraid that the epoxy may cause you a problem, not sure though? Shellac bonds to wood but does not like some types of finish (some polys dont work well with shellac, not sure about epoxy based). I have never tried to use shellac over epoxy so??? I would try this on a scrap piece first before you try it on the real thing as you might not like the reaction. Just a thought and my .02cents and I use a lot of Shellac LOL:)))IT IS My favorite finish but requires some care. Mike Z-poxy is used all the time as a fill method by acoustic builders that french polish. works just fine. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddog Posted May 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi, thanks for the detailed advise. I'm starting to learn enough so at least I can ask pertenent questions. The "test" piece is actually a clock, with 1/4 inch strips of mohogany on the side kind of like a wood strip boat. I used z-poxy mainly to fill any gaps in the strips, and also just to try it as a grain filler prior to french polishing. I have a couple of questions. I used zinnser amber shellac as a wash coat, and planned to use it for everything, but it was very thick sticky compared to what I used in the past. ( Zinser seal coat). I started to body with the amber shellac, but had to switch back to the seal coat. Then everything started work nicely. (Nice gliding and a nice trail.) I have to assume that you guys mix your own, is that the way to go? Second question; Am I right in assuming that grain filling with pumice is grabbing dust created by "sanding" with the pumice, then forming a paste of dust, pumice, and shellac from the wash coat, and forcing it into the pores? My last attempt at grain filling with pumace got me 95% there, but the last 5% still eludes me. I'm getting a spectacular finish, but not perfect. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Hi, thanks for the detailed advise. I'm starting to learn enough so at least I can ask pertenent questions. The "test" piece is actually a clock, with 1/4 inch strips of mohogany on the side kind of like a wood strip boat. I used z-poxy mainly to fill any gaps in the strips, and also just to try it as a grain filler prior to french polishing. I have a couple of questions. I used zinnser amber shellac as a wash coat, and planned to use it for everything, but it was very thick sticky compared to what I used in the past. ( Zinser seal coat). I started to body with the amber shellac, but had to switch back to the seal coat. Then everything started work nicely. (Nice gliding and a nice trail.) I have to assume that you guys mix your own, is that the way to go? Second question; Am I right in assuming that grain filling with pumice is grabbing dust created by "sanding" with the pumice, then forming a paste of dust, pumice, and shellac from the wash coat, and forcing it into the pores? My last attempt at grain filling with pumace got me 95% there, but the last 5% still eludes me. I'm getting a spectacular finish, but not perfect. Thanks You will have better results if you mix your own shellac(IMO). I like using different cuts(1lb cut for wash and light sealer, 2lb cut is good for body, final coats back to 1lb). Zinser sealer(the one that has no wax) is fine for quick sealer coats, but that is about all I use it for. So yep, mix your own is better to me. You have the right idea on the Pumice. The biggest problem I think people have with Pumice filler is that they get too much shellac mixed into the process(heavy sealer coats). That will tend to increase the shrink back and pores re-appear down the road. Remember shellac is only good when it is applied in very fine coats. Filling pores would be way toothick and not work well. It sounds like you are getting there. The first 90% is basic technique and materials. The last ten is improving your technique (working out your application and pressure). Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarter Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 A question about shellac ... I have some flake that I picked up, but don't know if its dewaxed. It has some bits of bug etc, so will filter it. Will filtering it remove wax too? Or how would I dewax it? What is the best way to filter? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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