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Everything posted by MiKro

  1. @Jolly, I had a thought about this in one of those waking moments. YOU are going for HIGH VOLTAGE on this one. That all sounds cool but I question the safety of it. Since the player is the only true earth ground and if you have any short that would feedback voltage it will go through the player to ground. Just as a properly grounded chassis is done to prevent a deadly shock. The player becomes the chassis ground. I would be very hesitant to go this route unless you can some how isolate the high voltage from the player. Just a thought about safety from my view of things. MK
  2. So what you are saying is use the 12th fret as the perpendicular and pivot point. Move the nut and the bridge accordingly. I would maybe suggest doing a mock up using lesser woods and your cnc and see how it works first. Also make the neck bolt on for the mockup as this allows you to make changes easier I would think? Just my thoughts out loud Mike. MK
  3. Welcome to PG, What you have appeared to do is similar to what Boss/Roland did on the GK series pickups for midi. Since these are a single string pickup, less windings are available therefore less output. First look at summing boards. These will give you some idea how to mix and match the signals. Also you will most likely need a pre-amp of some sort. Another avenue to look at is Cycfi research and there Nu pickups and there Nexus electronics, this may give you an idea as well. There website is here Cycfi Link. I hope this helps. MK
  4. @curtisa, Yes you are correct I some how moved that over. it should look like you drew it. . The cap to ground and no connection between I and A except at ground. Thanks for catching that. easy to change. Update: It has been corrected. Damn how did I miss that one. LOL. Thanks again for your extra look over. I know how I did that I had removed it once and put it at the Rectifier section, then moved it back using a larger one at the rectifier then stepping down at the module. I must have just joined it in wrong when I went back. DUH!! As far as heat and voltage I will most likely use lm317 for all of the LM series. I may also up the wattage of the resistor to the trim pots for those mk
  5. Ah, I will look into that thanks for the extra eyes. I do miss things at times. LOL MK
  6. Yep I am aware of the ground. I made it a floating signal ground and not chassis ground. The caps are 1000uf and 220uf. Yes I got the Pots bass ackwards thanks for that. Yes I am aware of the input voltages and will be adding current limiting resisters where needed. I am still bread boarding each now. Thanks for the input. MK
  7. Hi All, I have finally finished the schematic for my regulated bench power supply. Now to build it. LOL. mk
  8. Looking at the specs on that DC buck converter, I don't see any for frequency. I might be concerned about the frequency it is running at? The others I have seen that produce that much voltage variance seem to be in the 20Khz range not the usual lower frequencies. Just something to look at for reference and rule it out. MK
  9. Keep up the work, trial and error are part of the electronics when it comes to being unconventional in purpose. LOL MK
  10. Jolly, Glad to see you trying the exciter direction. I too am working on a design that uses the exciters mounted to a plate for speaker. This should give you some flexibility as to tune the output some for better bass response based on location on the plate/soundboard. The problem you may run into though is the feedback, so that will need to be addressed. In some cases though it may also act in some way as a sustainer. I think I mentioned in your last build that you may want to look at the Cockroft Walton Voltage multiplier circuit. Using diodes and capacitors you can get a lot of forward voltage that may suit your needs as far as upping your voltage requirements in a light small package. May I suggest, you also look into using Lipo RC type batteries as a power source. Smaller with as much power and less weight maybe. . MK BTW Congrats on the GOTM win.
  11. Hi all, Been really trying to learn this new tool in Rhino7 called sub-d. I took my LP model that I did in Rhino6 nurbs mesh and converted it to a Quadmesh, then Sub-D model. With a few pushes and pulls here and there, I have refined that even more than what Nurbs can do. I am really pleased with the results of this new tool. My next step on this journey is to do all of this in Sub_D only. Another learning curve with everything else going on as well in my life. LOL MK
  12. Most of the time ridges are an indication of three things, either flex in the machine, flex in the end mill, or the machine is not trammed correctly. Any at the same time will make it worse. Just my many years of doing this from an experience stand point. Mike
  13. Carl, I agree 100% and the last statement is testament to how you and I have approached this avenue in our quest for knowledge. As far as 2d milling that was my first process in a Mill Shop. What I learned more than anything was the importance of a consistent reference point. Machine coorindinates/home. Fron there the CNC was much easire. As far as the modeling I agree I would rather do it myself than plug in others work. While there is validity to that I still do it all by my hand in the program. Yes, I sell models on Etsy, as this is what others want but it is funny how mine do not sell as well since I only sell a model that does not have the 2d machined areas already there. It is funny how you know when someone buys your model they understand that what I produce is just that and the canvas for the 2 d work. Mike
  14. I agree, some are an issue as you have described and each takes that on in there own way. I see many parallels in our thinking as well as many that are not. This is also mindful of a few things that dictate one's situation. Such as machine capability, ones ultimate end task of what % is machine and hand work, There are many variables that must be addressed all at the same time. I still see so many that think CNC is plug and play. We know better. Bizman62 is understanding the complexity of it now, as are many others as well.. As far as work holding for instance I use a flanged ear approach using location pins and screws for the body. Like I said we each use and choose directions in CNC that make sense and apply to our application. I prefer to model in full 3d where I can and not worry as much about the 2d parts of that. It is the approach that I use. The 2d parts are my map for the 3d model. Again this is something we could discuss for a long time with most likely no end to a proven or best method. Learning from each other though does at least open doors for more intense review of a process. Looking good Carl.. Mike A sample of my holding of a body. This allows me to continue until I am ready for final profile cutout. When I removed the back to open this I then after have to go back and adjust the ears once a new removable back was made. This is an extreme that I normally do not have to focus on.
  15. OMG Not another one of those Hideous PACMAN looking Corvus POSs. I am outta here. LMAO!!! mk
  16. Dude, that's rough. Try and be safe, settle in for slight change. MK
  17. HI John, All well in your neck of the woods? This getting old shit sucks. I don't remember your ever building a Tele? Then again I left for while my self. LOL Looking good you Gray headed old man. LOL Mike
  18. You do realize that you responded to a 16 year old thread? I don't think you will get a response. MK
  19. Like I said some refer to the panhandle as High country, it has always been high plains to me and drops off the caprock as you said. Llano is around the Austin area and South of Hico. If any one ever says that the caprock and highplains is flat I laugh at them because they have never walked any of it. I can show you a place at the Matador Wildlife management area in the Northwest back corner that is at min an 800ft elevation change in less than a square mile of distance. LOL mk
  20. High country in Texas can refer to two regions that I am aware of. The panhandle area in North West Texas or the Mountainous area in the Big Bend area. The Hill country area is South of DFW and encompasses a large area including Austin and surrounding areas. It starts around Hico. Also, When using a heat blanket put it on the inside of the wood side wall, otherwise you may have ribbed pattern show up in the wood that is very hard to sand out. MK
  21. I have Aspire as well as Rhino7, fusion360 and some others. If you want a sanding block with a 12" radius for Vcarve it will need to be an STL file so It can be imported for your friend to cut it. Here I made you a 14"L x 3"W x 3/4"D 12" radius sanding block STL file for you to have your friend cut for you MK 12inchsandingblock.zip
  22. Does it come with a summing board as each pickup is wired indepenantly like a Graphtech ghost system bridge if I am correct? If not then you will also need one of those so as to use it as a single pickup or split it out to the preamp. The summing board allows you to use each as a midi channel as well, depending on what is the intended purpose by the user. I would research it with LR Baggs and also look at the Graphtech ghost system for more info. Just my thoughts on it without looking deeply into the bones of it all. MK
  23. You know I was just gigging you. They are sound plans, While your abilities are where you question yourself. Kudos for knowing your limitations at this point in time. Your advancement will continue as you go. Mike
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