OmaPlata Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Alright, so I've gotten my truss rod adjusted using the tutorial I linked to fromthis site so as to get the proper bow. The spec on the 7th fret is about .010 inches using the straigt edge and feeler guages. Once I got this far, it started becoming very hard to turn the truss rod so I decided to stop as I don't need a broken neck(how hard is it to turn your truss rod nuts guys? I felt like it required considerable effort). Also, the neck angle was properly set by a pro. In any case, my problem is this. Unless I have the strings set high on the bridge, the string clips the last fret when I'm playing on the last 4 or so(So when I hit the 20th fret, the string hits the 22 fret and I hear the 22 fret note). If I have them high enough to clear the last fret and get the full range of notes, the action is just waaay too high. What are my options at this point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 I would carefully file/sand those offending frets a little lower. You may have to "ramp" the last few frets down to the end of the fingerboard. That's just my initial assessment--I have no experience in that area, so take it with a grain of salt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 More info please. What kind of guitar? Set neck or bolt on? Hardtail, TOM, trem? Did you get it already made or did you put it together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black_labb Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 the truss rod should make the neck straighter, not adjust the action. that is the bridges job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Sounds like my Mexican Fender with the original frets. One day, for no good reason that I know of, the 21st fret just pops up, causing the same problem like you describe. I haven't fixed it yet. Don't want to take the strings off. I need to make a notched radius caul and press it down with the strings left on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 It is common practice to to ramp down the last 5-6 frets so that the last one is ~0.005 to 0.010 low compared with all the others, for this very reason. Also, over time some necks will develop a bow that leaves the neck flat in the area around the neck pocket, but gradually increases the neck angle starting from there toward the headstock. Especially on set necks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 (edited) Most pros would use clamps and cauls to help bend the neck back and would never use shear force to straighten the truss rod using the nut. With out any tools who know what your fret board is doing, bow, hump, wave. maybe you need a complete fret job a board leveling to get this fixed. erikbojerik is right a lot of repairman taper the end of the board to help with the action, but most would prefer to start that process before the frets are installed. If you want to do it yourself you will need tools and some idea of what is wrong before you start leveling frets to fix the problem. This is really not a question someone can answer on a forum since a dozen things could be wrong. make sure you have the tools to check the board then frets and then probably send it to soapbarstrat he's the pro. Edited July 15, 2007 by Woodenspoke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikevirok Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 I agree with woodenspoke (btw, I contacted you via eBay about the grizzly, small world huh?) about this leveling process. It sounds like a fret is higher on the tongue of the fretboard. You could try and re-dress just that fret if it's the only one buzzing or fretting the next note. That may help. Like others have already stated, there are so many variables that could be ailing your guitar that only a proper inspection would help. Just take your time with it and try the re-dress on the on fret first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted July 16, 2007 Report Share Posted July 16, 2007 erikbojerik is right a lot of repairman taper the end of the board to help with the action, but most would prefer to start that process before the frets are installed. Yes, because if you got .038" tall frets and get carried away and mill .010" off (that's way too much- try .003"), then there you are with some .028" tall frets at the end of the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OmaPlata Posted July 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 Hey guys, sorry I didn't get back sooner. Tons of great info! The guitar is a semihollow tele that I've been building. The neck is nearly new and made by Larry Karosa of Karosa guitars. In any case, I've been learning a lot as I go. I think I'm going to take everybody's advice and get it checked out by someone who knows better what they are looking at. It's simply not worth me screwing it up due to inexperience. That being said, can anybody recommend a trustworthy yet economical shop in the SF bay area(preferably the east bay) that would be right for the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 Hey guys, sorry I didn't get back sooner. Tons of great info! The guitar is a semihollow tele that I've been building. The neck is nearly new and made by Larry Karosa of Karosa guitars. In any case, I've been learning a lot as I go. I think I'm going to take everybody's advice and get it checked out by someone who knows better what they are looking at. It's simply not worth me screwing it up due to inexperience. That being said, can anybody recommend a trustworthy yet economical shop in the SF bay area(preferably the east bay) that would be right for the job? Contact Larry Karosa of Karosa guitars and tell him his neck is a problem and have him fix it for you or at least check it for you no charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OmaPlata Posted July 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Hey guys, sorry I didn't get back sooner. Tons of great info! The guitar is a semihollow tele that I've been building. The neck is nearly new and made by Larry Karosa of Karosa guitars. In any case, I've been learning a lot as I go. I think I'm going to take everybody's advice and get it checked out by someone who knows better what they are looking at. It's simply not worth me screwing it up due to inexperience. That being said, can anybody recommend a trustworthy yet economical shop in the SF bay area(preferably the east bay) that would be right for the job? Contact Larry Karosa of Karosa guitars and tell him his neck is a problem and have him fix it for you or at least check it for you no charge. I totally would except Larry is in Texas or something and I am in California. It would cost more in shipping than to pay for somebody to just fix it out here, if there's a problem with the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 (edited) ...get carried away and mill .010" off (that's way too much- try .003")... To repeat: It is common practice to ramp down the last 5-6 frets so that the last one is ~0.005 to 0.010 low The precision on this number depends on your string gauges, and how heavy your strumming/picking action is, as well as your playing style (e.g. fingerpickers require a bit higher action). I stand by that recommendation as a general one. Edited July 23, 2007 by erikbojerik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted July 23, 2007 Report Share Posted July 23, 2007 Why bother repeating ? Obviously .010" on the last fret, would still mean a few frets away, you've still knocked down at least .008" on those frets. that 's still too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted July 24, 2007 Report Share Posted July 24, 2007 (edited) Why bother repeating ? To emphasize that (as I said originally) there is an acceptable range to this ramp that depends on choice of string gauge and playing style. Not just a "one size fits all" 0.010" (or 0.003" for that matter). The problem that I envision here (albiet without photos) is a bent neck, almost like there's a hinge where the neck begins to thicken toward the heel, and the rest of the neck has been pulled toward the bridge by string tension. I've seen this on a few neck-thru instruments (where the neck heel has been sculpted outside the part of the neck supported by the truss rod) and on some acoustics (fretboard extension outside the rod). No amount of truss rod shenanigans will straighten that out, and it may be what's happening here. If it is a small enough effect, a fret ramp could fix it. Obviously .010" on the last fret, would still mean a few frets away, you've still knocked down at least .008" on those frets. that 's still too much. And 0.005 off the last fret leaves you with [whatever-0.005], great...again, depends. Naturally it is best to approach this slowly until you've achieved what you want....but I'll tell you, 0.010 off #22 (ramping from #14) is exactly what I did on my last 25.5" neck. On that guitar I use 12-52 tuned to Eb, and I have a pretty heavy right hand. And it is not too much, it is just right TYVM. You can also build this into the fretboard prior to fretting if you're building your own neck. Edited July 24, 2007 by erikbojerik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted July 24, 2007 Report Share Posted July 24, 2007 (edited) In a case *like that*, it's better to pull the frets in the heel area, plane down any rise, then re-fret, keeping the re-crowning work to a minimum. I know there are cases where the board might already be too thin for that, etc, but it's rare. Too much ramping causes a neck to play worse further down the neck. That happens sometimes. I'm glad most of the big makers don't do that to their necks. I use a tension jig to get rid of a lot of the guess-work with body joint humps and upper register rises. Not enough info was given by the original poster, and it's way too easy for someone who doesn't know what they're doing to grab a file and start "following advice". Edited July 24, 2007 by soapbarstrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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