Jump to content

A Few Issues


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently acquired an old Tom Anderson Pro Am (22 fret maple neck, Floyd, etc). After taking it through my normal setup though, it seems as if the neck at the last seven or eight fret area rises just a bit. As a result, I'm not able to get a good action without choking on the high notes. It's not a major rise, but enough that the clarity on some of the high notes is lost.

What's the problem here, and is there any solution, obviously besides a fret level or refret?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have you set the relief with the truss rod?

Yes, I've set the relief with the truss rod. If I give it too much, then the upper frets become REALLY bad. If I tighten the rod, then I end up getting way too much buzzing on the lower frets. I've got it at the best happy medium now, but it's still an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Level the frets, then "ramp" the the 17th on up...IE.. grind down those frets a bit more than the rest after levelling.

Yeah, I'm afraid that's what I'll have to do...I just spent much money and time having the rest of my guitars PLEK'ed out of town, so I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that again.

I probably need to learn how to level my own frets anyway. Any tips on where to start? I know that there are various opinions as to how it should be done. For instance, do I need to level the frets under simulated tension, etc?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I PM'd waylay, but I'll reply here as well in case anyone's interested.

I was very happy with the results. The most difficult part of the process was getting the aluminium angle flat. First I planed a large piece of wood to use as a long sanding block, then I put 80 grit paper on that, and held it in a vise to run the alminium over it to get it dead flat. I have it now as a tool I will use on all future fret jobs.

The actual fret levelling was quick and pretty much foolproof (as long as you realise that the strings will be useless afterwards). Crowning took a bit more time.

I set the action lower than the theoretical norms and still had no buzzing. I am using heavier strings than normal (12-52 flatwounds). On one hand I think that all else being equal the action would need to be higher as the strings are thicker, on the other hand the thicker strings mean higher tension and as the mass is greater the amplitude of the vibration can be smaller for the same loudness, so maybe that's allowing me a lower action.

It's a good straightforward technique. I wish you luck with it.

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I set the action lower than the theoretical norms and still had no buzzing. I am using heavier strings than normal (12-52 flatwounds). On one hand I think that all else being equal the action would need to be higher as the strings are thicker, on the other hand the thicker strings mean higher tension and as the mass is greater the amplitude of the vibration can be smaller for the same loudness, so maybe that's allowing me a lower action.

heavier gauge strings will be the same height, if not higher. the reason being that the bottom of the string goes to the same base of the nut slot, which obviously doesnt change. the top will be further away. the reason i say it may be higher, is the larger gauge string may be too large for the hole, and sit slightly above the normal slot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...