Putting Maple Top On The Body?

[bancika]

Hi guys,

recently I got two maple tops, one flamed 1/8" and quilted 1/4" and would like to use one of them to make replacement body for my RG.

The problem is that RG has contoured hand rest which would make it little complicated (see this). The way I see it, I'll have to make body with that contour and then somehow bend top and glue it to the body. Otherwise I would need at least 1" thick top.

I'm leaning towards flamed top which is 1/8" and I think it would be easier to bend. Any ideas, thoughts, comments are welcome.

Thanks,

Bane

[fryovanni]

Hi guys,

recently I got two maple tops, one flamed 1/8" and quilted 1/4" and would like to use one of them to make replacement body for my RG.

The problem is that RG has contoured hand rest which would make it little complicated (see this). The way I see it, I'll have to make body with that contour and then somehow bend top and glue it to the body. Otherwise I would need at least 1" thick top.

I'm leaning towards flamed top which is 1/8" and I think it would be easier to bend. Any ideas, thoughts, comments are welcome.

Thanks,

Bane

Do a quick search for bending tops. There are a couple of topics that have just what you want to know, there is also a tutorial if I remember correctly. You are correct in thinking the thinner top will be easier to bend. This is because you need to heat the wood to bend it(generally the target temp will be about 300 deg. F). Veneer softeners can also assist in making the process easier. On very mild bends with very thin wood, you may be able to get away with softeners or even a bit of water. Another good place to get info on bending at the thickness you mentioned would be acoustic side bending, as the thickness of an acoustic side is pretty close to the thickness you are trying to bend. The best tool for making a bend like this will be heat blankets(offers great control and even delivery of heat), heat guns can be used(but deliver is not as effective), flat irons can be used(good control of heat, but the rigid surface makes delivery more challenging after the bend is started). With any system, steam(adding a little moisture) will assist in delivering the heat more evenly, and can offer a bit of scorch protection.

Peace,Rich

Peace,Rich

[radrobgray]

i did this , dont use too much water, when i dries it will crack.

[bancika]

Can you give me more details about your work: what did you use to heat the wood, how much water exactly (just brush, spray, something else...), whatever you think might be useful.

Thanks guys!

[fryovanni]

Can you give me more details about your work: what did you use to heat the wood, how much water exactly (just brush, spray, something else...), whatever you think might be useful.

Thanks guys!

Just a spritz of water is enough to generate steam.

There was a time when acoustic sides were bent by boiling them in water them placing them in a form to cool. There are obvious problems that go along with this(distortion, possible cracking, and so forth). It is not the best choice.

If you have a heat source that can deliver the heat needed, without burning the wood. Additional water is not needed. I have bent acoustic sides dry with heating blankets. Taylor bends acoustic sides very efficiently with no water added. It all depends on how well you control and deliver the heat.

Peace,Rich

[bancika]

I don't think I have the right tool that can deliver the heat effectively...what about cloth iron?

[rubber314chicken]

I don't think I have the right tool that can deliver the heat effectively...what about cloth iron?

yeah, especially if you can set it to apply just a little steam, and on cotton that will work wonders. do it a little at a time, and you will get it bend with a little work.

[fryovanni]

This company sells heat blankets-click

That link is to a blanket that should be large enough to do an arm rest(you can get the blankets in many sizes, and you would want to confirm what would work best for you). That blanket would run $25. How much value would you find in having a tool that can do the job with good control, and less risk to your tops? People often look at the price of damaging one set of acoustic sides, as enough insentive to purchase a heating blanket. I use expensive sides so I bought two . There is truth in what they say though.

An iron has a rigid flat heating surface. It is not going to be large enough to heat the area without moving it around. You may be able to make it work, but it will not be as reliable or straight forward as a heating blanket. You really have to figure out what you think is best for your situation.

Peace,Rich

[fyb]

This company sells heat blankets-click

That link is to a blanket that should be large enough to do an arm rest(you can get the blankets in many sizes, and you would want to confirm what would work best for you). That blanket would run $25. How much value would you find in having a tool that can do the job with good control, and less risk to your tops? People often look at the price of damaging one set of acoustic sides, as enough insentive to purchase a heating blanket. I use expensive sides so I bought two . There is truth in what they say though.

An iron has a rigid flat heating surface. It is not going to be large enough to heat the area without moving it around. You may be able to make it work, but it will not be as reliable or straight forward as a heating blanket. You really have to figure out what you think is best for your situation.

Peace,Rich

How would you go about using the blankets though? Do you try to bend the top before you glue it on? Or do you glue the flat area then heat the curved part at the contour? Should you moisten the top or the bottom of the piece you're trying to bend?

[fryovanni]

This company sells heat blankets-click

That link is to a blanket that should be large enough to do an arm rest(you can get the blankets in many sizes, and you would want to confirm what would work best for you). That blanket would run $25. How much value would you find in having a tool that can do the job with good control, and less risk to your tops? People often look at the price of damaging one set of acoustic sides, as enough insentive to purchase a heating blanket. I use expensive sides so I bought two . There is truth in what they say though.

An iron has a rigid flat heating surface. It is not going to be large enough to heat the area without moving it around. You may be able to make it work, but it will not be as reliable or straight forward as a heating blanket. You really have to figure out what you think is best for your situation.

Peace,Rich

How would you go about using the blankets though? Do you try to bend the top before you glue it on? Or do you glue the flat area then heat the curved part at the contour? Should you moisten the top or the bottom of the piece you're trying to bend?

You would use a heat blanket the same way you would any other heat source. Persaonally, I would clamp the top down to the body, place a moist piece of craft paper(you can soak the craft paper or just spritz it with water, depending on how much water you choose to use) under the blanket, turn the blanket on and monitor the temp. As it aproaches bending temp (you should start to see the steam rising as it is getting closer), leaving the blanket in place I would place a semi-firm board (maybe 1/4" ply) over the blanket, then lightly lightly press on the top to see if it has become flexable. If the wood is 1/8" thick the weight of the blanket and ply will actually start to make the wood bend(it will become that flexable). If it is 1/4" it would be a good idea to cycle the blanket several times to bring the temp up throughout the thicker piece, when it is ready it will bend with little force applied. After you have the wood bent as needed, lightly clamp it in place (it is best to clamp from the inner part of the body and work your way to the outer edge (to get a good match of surfaces). Allow the wood/heat heat blanket and all to remain clamped(again lightly is fine) overnight. After it has cooled it will hold the new shape and you will be able to glue the top to the body as normal, if there is slight springback on the bent part you can go ahead and glue and clamp it (the springback should not require much clamping force to overrcome).

Peace,Rich

[fyb]

This company sells heat blankets-click

That link is to a blanket that should be large enough to do an arm rest(you can get the blankets in many sizes, and you would want to confirm what would work best for you). That blanket would run $25. How much value would you find in having a tool that can do the job with good control, and less risk to your tops? People often look at the price of damaging one set of acoustic sides, as enough insentive to purchase a heating blanket. I use expensive sides so I bought two . There is truth in what they say though.

An iron has a rigid flat heating surface. It is not going to be large enough to heat the area without moving it around. You may be able to make it work, but it will not be as reliable or straight forward as a heating blanket. You really have to figure out what you think is best for your situation.

Peace,Rich

How would you go about using the blankets though? Do you try to bend the top before you glue it on? Or do you glue the flat area then heat the curved part at the contour? Should you moisten the top or the bottom of the piece you're trying to bend?

You would use a heat blanket the same way you would any other heat source. Persaonally, I would clamp the top down to the body, place a moist piece of craft paper(you can soak the craft paper or just spritz it with water, depending on how much water you choose to use) under the blanket, turn the blanket on and monitor the temp. As it aproaches bending temp (you should start to see the steam rising as it is getting closer), leaving the blanket in place I would place a semi-firm board (maybe 1/4" ply) over the blanket, then lightly lightly press on the top to see if it has become flexable. If the wood is 1/8" thick the weight of the blanket and ply will actually start to make the wood bend(it will become that flexable). If it is 1/4" it would be a good idea to cycle the blanket several times to bring the temp up throughout the thicker piece, when it is ready it will bend with little force applied. After you have the wood bent as needed, lightly clamp it in place (it is best to clamp from the inner part of the body and work your way to the outer edge (to get a good match of surfaces). Allow the wood/heat heat blanket and all to remain clamped(again lightly is fine) overnight. After it has cooled it will hold the new shape and you will be able to glue the top to the body as normal, if there is slight springback on the bent part you can go ahead and glue and clamp it (the springback should not require much clamping force to overrcome).

Peace,Rich

Thanks Rich I have all these I ideas I want to do with that walnut and a drop top strat is looking pretty tempting! How easy do you think the walnut will be to bend?

[bancika]

Thanks to all for replying, really appreciate it!

What makes it easier is the way RG handrest is made. It looks like most of it is flat with rounded transition between body and the handrest.

I think it would be sufficient just to bend top over some round "object", like this

If I understood correctly, the heat should be applied from above, right?

The problem with these blankets is voltage...in Serbia we have 220V so these won't work. Do you know if there are international blankets?

Also, it looks like I'll need some smaller blanket if I just need to bend wood at one line.

Thanks again,

Bane

[fryovanni]

Thanks to all for replying, really appreciate it!

What makes it easier is the way RG handrest is made. It looks like most of it is flat with rounded transition between body and the handrest.

I think it would be sufficient just to bend top over some round "object", like this

If I understood correctly, the heat should be applied from above, right?

The problem with these blankets is voltage...in Serbia we have 220V so these won't work. Do you know if there are international blankets?

Also, it looks like I'll need some smaller blanket if I just need to bend wood at one line.

Thanks again,

Bane

LMI offers higher voltage blankets- link. You could do a quick web search for Silicon Heat blankets, and you can find other suppliers.

FYB, I have bent curly Walnut for acoustics with pretty tight cutoways. I have never had any trouble bending it.

Peace,Rich

[bancika]

Those at LMI are too expensive

And how do you use heat blanket anyway, just plug in the wall and that's it? Is timer/thermostat required?

Thanks,

Bane

[fryovanni]

Those at LMI are too expensive

And how do you use heat blanket anyway, just plug in the wall and that's it? Is timer/thermostat required?

Thanks,

Bane

LMI is not cheap, but then again they size is different(those are much longer heat blankets), did you have any luck searching for a different source via the web?

As far as use, Some people use timers, dimmers, and other control components. Personally I use a thermometer and a switched outlet to turn them on and off as needed to regulate heat (it is not that hard to do, but automating the control is a good way to go if you wants to be able to just turn it on and let it do the rest). You can buy heat blankets with or without the cord pre-wired. Personally I wire my own, but you have to use what you are most comfortable with.

Anywho... That is about all I can offer on the subject. Good luck with whatever method you choose

Rich