How Easy Are Plastic Bindings To Install?

[fyb]

These may seem like simple questions but I've never tried binding so please bear with me Does the plastic readily bend to tighter contours or do you have to coax it somehow? Does it sand easily or do you need to scrape it? Can you trim it with a flush trim bit instead? You should use superglue to bond it, right? Will oil finishes work over the binding (if you're doing the whole body in an oil finish)?

Thanks!

[low end fuzz]

plastic bends super well; around points you have to cut it and butt it against each other;

i dont remember its real name but i got (what i call) binding glue; it seems like a contact cement; cover both surfaces w/it and clamp them down w/ the plastic tape with the lil ribs in it;

someone else could prolly clear this up a bit better; but you got a bump out of it

oh and i scrape it; dont know if you can sand it; i dont see why not it gets sanded when i use them in fret markers; but scrapers make such quik work that more accuratly stays on the binding not the wood

[fryovanni]

Plastic binding bends well, a little heat from a hair dryer will help around tight bends(just don't over do it and damage the binding. A sraper is best for cleaning up binding. Just take your time and make even passes, holding the scraper perpendincular. Don't focus on one spot or dig in, it is better to keep overlapping. Be accurate when you cut the binding ledge(test your router set up on scrap, and dry fit the binding to be sure it is very accurate). An accurate ledge will make clean up minimal. Be sure your router is staying perpendicular as you cut the ledge, don't let it tilt and wabble. Binding cement from Stew Mac is good, and filiment tape(stew sells this or you can buy it at packing stores* about the same price either way) for tight radius and you can use blue masking tape to hold more gentle radiused areas. If you can buy the longer plastic binding so you can avoid joints. This is not something that works for wood binding, but fiber and plastic are very easy to manage in longer pieces.

Peace,Rich

[SnowGTR]

Scraping the binding will generate enough heat to soften it and distort it. try to keep the binding height about 1/16 “ or slightly more above the channel routes to cut down on the amount of scrapping you will need to do after it is on the body.

[fryovanni]

Scraping the binding will generate enough heat to soften it and distort it. try to keep the binding height about 1/16 “ or slightly more above the channel routes to cut down on the amount of scrapping you will need to do after it is on the body.

I am not sure what you mean when you say scraping will generate enough heat to bend it? A sharp scraper doesn't generate that much heat. Also 1/16" seems a bit tall, I generally try to get my shelf closer than that (top within .010", sides .005"). You can easily set your router to hold these numbers. Maybe I am just not understanding what you are saying.

Peace,Rich

[mdw3332]

I have found the Weld On cement (#16) at plastic / plexiglass dealers or glass stores that sell plastic for signs etc in both Southern California and Oregon. $7 for 5 oz.

Edited September 23, 2007 by mdw3332

[SnowGTR]

Scraping the binding will generate enough heat to soften it and distort it. try to keep the binding height about 1/16 “ or slightly more above the channel routes to cut down on the amount of scrapping you will need to do after it is on the body.

I am not sure what you mean when you say scraping will generate enough heat to bend it? A sharp scraper doesn't generate that much heat. Also 1/16" seems a bit tall, I generally try to get my shelf closer than that (top within .010", sides .005"). You can easily set your router to hold these numbers. Maybe I am just not understanding what you are saying.

Peace,Rich

I should have said 1/32” which would be .031 over. When building up multiple laminations of building, if you get to aggressive with scraping you could end up losing a clean crisp line between the laminations. If using a single binding it won’t make much of a difference. I’ve seen bad binding on cheep guitars that I believe were caused by heat generated by scrapping to fast or the use of a router as I have done in my earlier years.

Sorry for the confusion,

rich

[Jon]

I am not sure what you mean when you say scraping will generate enough heat to bend it?

I was able to generate a great deal of heat scraping pitch off of a piece of purpleheart. Enough to burn my fingers and keep me from using the scraper for a few seconds. Different scenario, but something to think about.

[fryovanni]

Scraping the binding will generate enough heat to soften it and distort it. try to keep the binding height about 1/16 “ or slightly more above the channel routes to cut down on the amount of scrapping you will need to do after it is on the body.

I am not sure what you mean when you say scraping will generate enough heat to bend it? A sharp scraper doesn't generate that much heat. Also 1/16" seems a bit tall, I generally try to get my shelf closer than that (top within .010", sides .005"). You can easily set your router to hold these numbers. Maybe I am just not understanding what you are saying.

Peace,Rich

I should have said 1/32” which would be .031 over. When building up multiple laminations of building, if you get to aggressive with scraping you could end up losing a clean crisp line between the laminations. If using a single binding it won’t make much of a difference. I’ve seen bad binding on cheep guitars that I believe were caused by heat generated by scrapping to fast or the use of a router as I have done in my earlier years.

Sorry for the confusion,

rich

I see what you are saying. Fine line fiber can get crushed if you don't keep your scraper good and sharp, but that is not too hard to avoid. A router bit would or sanding can muck up those nice cleanly scraped lines. I suspect most of the issues with detail lines being uneven is a lamination issue loose or uneven glue joints(I have seen flaws in pre-laminated fine line purfs and binding, this is another good reason to place everything as close as possible and avoid possibly cutting into a sloppy area).