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About Jon

  • Birthday 05/22/1987

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    Fort Worth, Texas

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  1. Very splintery, fairly dense, and very difficult to level sand when flatsawn. Looks pretty awesome, though!
  2. I tweaked it a little...this might be a little closer to real life? That's a lot closer, thanks!
  3. Birdseye Burl top, Black Limba top, Black Limba body blank (looks much cooler in person!), and a Birdseye Maple body blank!
  4. I'm pretty sure the fretwire is made straight, then they radius it afterwards. I doubt they'd go to the trouble to straighten every single piece just so you'd have to buy a fret bender. I personally prefer straight stock since I work with radii ranging from 12" - 40". It's pretty helpful for storage as well, as storage for a few lbs. of fretwire would take up a good amount of space in a 40" radius. Personally, I am pleased with StewMac fretwire. I will definitely try a new source if I ever finish up my 2 lbs. of stewmac fretwire, though.
  5. In a few months I'll have an inexpensive studio setup to start recording my own stuff, so I can't really get you any sound examples until then. Here's what my friend used to convert the midi to Tomas Haake's kit samples: Ableton Live ~> Plugin for Ableton called EZ Drummer ~> plugin for EZ drummer called Drum Kit from Hell
  6. Personally, I do not like the rubber conveyor belt on the grizzly sanders. The pressure from the rollers press the wood down too much on the corners, causing uneven corners. This was a serious pita to fix when I would be doing a bulk amount of fingerboards a day. I would recommend a jet / performax 16-32 sander over the Grizzly rubber conveyor drum sanders. The Grizzly sanders have a lot more power / speed, though!
  7. I wrote out some drum parts in guitar pro, converted it to a midi file, then had my friend convert it to drum samples from Tomas Haake's kit. I'm surprised at how simple it was to get such nice sounding percussion. Although that may not help you out much, I'd be happy to share how this is done if you want to try it out.
  8. Once I start taking off a little bit of the fingerboard with the fret beveling tool, I stop. At this point I'll check over all the fret ends to make sure they're properly seated. When they're all seated I go over the fret ends with a piece of foam with sandpaper attached (400 grit or so) to get the frets a little bit closer, then roll the fingerboard edge consistently. If there is still visible gap from the fret slot, I'll fill the gap before rolling the fingerboard edges.
  9. Honestly, it seems like wasted effort for something that is already there. I do not believe I have ever seen an ebony fingerboard with black binding.
  10. Cut it all off January 1st, '08 along. I shaved my beard off too, I had it at about 3" long. I would definitely grow it out if I got into a touring metal band. None of that will help me get a decent job in Texas, though. Too many nightmares about catching my hair in power tools...
  11. The guitarist in my band had both of his E strings 1/8th" off from the pole pieces and there was no noticeable sound difference. That guitar has been used to record lots of stuff, too. Keep us up to date Soutbound, this kind of knowledge is always helpful!
  12. With MM style pickups, you can be a fair amount away from the pole pieces before the sound is altered. If you do want to stick with a Badass bridge, I believe there are slotted and unslotted types to accommodate a good variance of string spacing. www.bestbassgear.com has everything you need, even custom routing templates.
  13. I'll echo what Erik and Batfink have already stated. This hardware will just end up in your closet once you measure everything out. You could e-mail hipshot on a possible custom bridge, they may already have some nailed out in CAD so you wont have to pay an additional CNC fee.
  14. I went over your list and added list/bullet code. You can use the "list" code along with bullets like this: [list]TOPIC [*]ITEM [*]ITEM[/list] TOPIC ITEM ITEM 1. Clamps 2. Good Straightedges 3. Rulers (fine graduations) 4. Good lighting 5. Pliers 6. Screwdriver 7. Hex wrench 8. Glues (Hide glue, yellow glue, epoxy, CA (superglue) 9. Double sided tape 10. Marking aul 11. Pencils and Pens 12. Square 13. Power Sanders (Random Orbital, Vibrating, Drum, Belt) 14. Coping Saw 15. Scissors 16. Respirators 17. Gloves 18. Ventilation/Dust Collection systems 19. Vacuum 20. Sturdy Workbench 21. Planes 22. Sandpaper 23. Various saws (Bandsaws are 24. CNC machine Neck Shaping and Body Contours 1. Surform 2. Spokeshave 3. Angle grinder 4. Various sanders... 5. Rasps 6. Files 7. Sandpaper Body Blank Cutting/ Shaping 1. Jigsaw 2. Bandsaw 3. Router 4. Same tools as for neck shaping Pickup Cavities 1. Various chisels 2. Router 3. Drill (preferably with large bits, like forstners) Fretting 1. 3 corner file 2. Needle files 3. Coarse/fine files (bastard and mill) 4. Brass, plastic, or wood hammer 5. Fretpress 6. Jaws (I, II, or III) 7. Fret leveling jig 8. Jig for filing fret ends at an angle 9. Fret bender 10. Fret tang under-cutter 11. Fret tang removal device 12. Good staightedge 13. Steel wool 14. Dremel and polishing wheel (with compound) 15. Micromesh Fretboard 1. Leveling device 2. fret slotting jig 3. Fret slotting saw 4. Fret slotting radial arm saw 5. Fret scale templates 6. Radius sanding block. 7. Radius sanding jig (like the ones made by grizzly) 8. Polishing papers (such as micromesh) Nut 1. Nut slotting files 2. Needle files 3. Sandpaper 4. Steel wool Bridge and Tuners 1. Drill with various bits 2. Drill press 3. Hand drill 4. Screwdriver 5. Hex wrench Binding 1. Scraper 2. Small saw 3. Knife (or razor blade) 4. Binding laminator 5. Brushes (for laminating with acetone) 6. Steel Wool 7. Router with Bearing bits (for binding channel) Finishing 1. Spray Gun 2. Buffing Wheel 3. Micromesh 4. Sandpaper 5. Buffing compounds 6. Steel wood 7. Brushes 8. Old rags 9. Rubber Gloves 10. Lots of other stuff that depends on your finish There that should be a good start!
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