Make Neck Binding On A Finished Neck

[block]

Hello this is my first time that I'm writing . I want to make a binding on a finished neck , i removed the frets and now i want to make a channel across the fretboard to add the binding . But (there is always a but) how do i make the channel perpendicular ? There is a 7.25" radius on the fender neck . I use a dremel tool with the base attachment and cutting 2mm bit . Can anyone help me ?

[ToneMonkey]

First of all a warning: I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE OF THIS, but I'm sure someone will confirm this or blow it out of the water.

I would imagine that you need to clamp the neck to the table and keep your router perpendicular to the neck, probably by putting a bit of wood on either side. You'd then shape the binding to the radius of the fretboard.

Kaj

[block]

First of all a warning: I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE OF THIS, but I'm sure someone will confirm this or blow it out of the water.

I would imagine that you need to clamp the neck to the table and keep your router perpendicular to the neck, probably by putting a bit of wood on either side. You'd then shape the binding to the radius of the fretboard.

Kaj

Thanks for quick answering.

Edited September 28, 2007 by block

[Woodenspoke]

Hello this is my first time that I'm writing . I want to make a binding on a finished neck , i removed the frets and now i want to make a channel across the fretboard to add the binding . But (there is always a but) how do i make the channel perpendicular ? There is a 7.25" radius on the fender neck . I use a dremel tool with the base attachment and cutting 2mm bit . Can anyone help me ?

well your hardest problem is solved, because you can remove the neck from the body. My suggestion would be a router table, but it can be done without one. Because the fretboard has a radius. You need to make a block that removes the curve from either the fret board creating a flat surface. This is so the base of the router or the top of the router table rides along a flat surface. Just like a radius sanding block only not quite so tall. This should should give you a flat surface in which to route the binding channel, and I suggest using double-sided tape to hold the jig. But just remember the neck does have a curve, going all the way to the frets. So make sure the outer band is thick enough to sand down without showing the next layer of binding. That's of course if you are using a multi-binding style of binding.

Just curious why you would add binding to a Fender guitar? But either way, it's pretty simple. You just have to create a flat surface, from which to work from the rest is pretty straightforward. I would also check your jig and make sure it is absolutely equal in distance to the edge of the fingerboard across its length. Otherwise your binding may be short on one side and tall on the other.

[Guest AlexVDL]

[block]

Thanks dude the pictures helped me a lot , i do that with my dreme at once !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited September 29, 2007 by block

[block]

Thanks a lot my friend help with your guide !!!!!!!! I will try it .

[Woodenspoke]

Thanks a lot my friend help with your guide !!!!!!!! I will try it .

Thats a nice picture but the process is flawed. I suggest you think about what you are doing before you follow anyones advice here on the board. First the end of a fender fingerboard is not straight and second you can use two sided tape instead of cork to create a flat board which sits on the centerlinge of the fingerboard which will add additional support. Cork is soft and compressable and would not be my first choice. You also have to move that setup for each edge. I would also be shooting for a binding I can wrap around the end of the fingerboard rater than cut and sand round. That setup does not create a rounded edged binding channel. The change in thickness will look weird if you have to sand binding to match a curved edge, and we all know most febders have curved edges on the fingerboard.

My two cents worth of usless advice.

[Guest AlexVDL]

[Woodenspoke]

What are you talking about? It worked perfectly fine for me. Cork is soft, but not so soft that the router will move under pressure. I tried double sided tape only, but that is actually softer than cork. The base for the router wil move and the route will not be perpendicular, I tried it.

Anyways, I wrote "What i did when I put a binding on my les paul studio". I did not tell him to do exactly what I did. I assumed he would use the same principle and try to find what works out for him the best. I never said "you MUST do this or that". So thank you for your two cents

Here is an old picture of my Gibson les paul studio I converted to a Goldtop (middle one). The setup was a 10 minute job, the routing took 2 minutes. I'll try to find better pictures in my archive, as this guitar is sold long ago.

As for the end of the fretboard you could always make a template for the router, or glue the binding to the end without routing. There is enough room between the fretboard end and neck pickup on a strat, but it will look like a little overhang.

I suggest you think about what you are doing before you follow anyones advice here on the board

+1 !! Always search for alternatives, and try on scrap first. And wait for more responses to your post, don't take the very first answer for granted

One of the reasons I like to use the phrase "my two cents worth of advice". I only post suggestions, I never profess to be Mr know it all. The second picture you provided puts my view on this subject into perspective and seems the easier setup for a one shot operation on a fender neck, thanks. Your guitars are nice but the necks are different and that curve on the bottom of a fender neck needed to be addressed. An overhangs as you said would look weird. I always assume people are at the beginning stages of skill level and I post as much information as I can for support. Since a step by step process is more work than I can provide.

Unfortunately everyone has a different method and it makes things interesting and difficult at the same time. I have many years of general woodworking experience so I believe I do have some advice worth giving. I would have used wood not cork but thats me. I always had good luck with tape I don't know why you didn't? Double sided tapes are not all equal and your brand my have different properties than the tape I use.

I still believe the radius can be built up with several pieces of tape and set in place without the need for purchasing additional materials, it does not have to be perfectly flat against the bottom of the jig just hold it (template, jig or board) in place without any movement. Also a piece of tape down the centerline should also help. Having the jig touch the fingerboard will help with making sure the height of the jig is equal from one end to the other. The tape can also be cut in strips to build up the outer edge. The hard part is router bit selection, making the jig to fit and placing the jig in the right place at the right height. marking a centerline on the jig and the fingerboard should help. but the jig has to be perfectly aligned.

Notice the rounded edges of this simple binding at the bottom of the fretboard (done during a build so the technique is different) but the results will are the same as what you will do with your fender neck.

[Guest AlexVDL]

[Woodenspoke]

The tape I used was kinda like duct tape, with the fibers in it. If you build up layers with it, it turns into a piece of chewing gum. The others I tried were kinda the same. Wood would be better than cork I agree, but you would have to shave them to a wig shape with a radius in it, which is alot of work. The cork I used was pretty hard, but soft enough to be slightly compressed.

The drawing was just a quick reference to what I did... it could be my jig touched the fingerboard, but I don't know anymore, it was so long ago

Anyways, you're right, touching the fingerboard gives you the same height all the way down the neck... BUT, this does not apply when you have a specific compound radius. There are two compound radius types, the one where the height of the center of the fretboard stays the same, so the sides go from high to low. The second one is where the height of the sides remains the same, so the height of the center varies. The last one gives you troubles.

I guess we need to start talking about a radius gage now. I assumed it was a standard fender neck and bringing up compound radius boards and possibly a slight end taper was adding fuel to the fire but you are correct things are not always as they seem.

My tape looks like double sided masking tape no fibers so it dosent gum up but it does have its limitations with short pieces.

I would probably flaten the top of the wood shims rather than try and match the radius of the fingerboard, by using a jointer plane, which would result in leaving the jig raised above the board as you showed. That way I would not distroy the board. Or in the case of a bolt on neck a large stationary belt sander would be a good choice. But whatever you did, or do, or use the end result is what counts.

Hopefully our chat helped Block with his project or scared him off, either way adding binding to an existing guitar is a scary job. I'd rather be doing a refret.

[block]

Its me again i came back with more questions !!! I want to explain somethings first >

1> Im from Greece , and English is not my mother language , so if probably sometimes cant understand the humor , or some other technical stuff written in English i want you to be open mind and give a second or a third chance to understand it . OK ?

Now lets get to my stuff . How to make binding on a finished Fender or Fender like guitar neck .

I have removed the frets ( i did a great job) and the nut very very carefully .

I bought from stewmac

and

I have a dremel .

Now with these attachments can do my job ?

How ? Can you guide me ?

I KNOW THAT THE TOOLS CAN DO THE LUTHIER (THATS A GREEK WORD) BUT I WILL TRY TO DO MY BEST FOR MY OWN PLEASURE I KNOW THAT MY ACTIONS WILL NOT MAKE ME A LUTHIER

Edited October 17, 2007 by block