Spalted Maple

[Natman]

Hi all, total newb here, 1st post. I registered because I found useful information about stabilizing spalted maple in some Google searches. I have about 5-6 pieces of heavily spalted maple which needs to be bookmatched. The problem is, the wood is so punky, I can't cut it without first stabilizing somehow.

I have read about the CA method and the epoxy method, and I'm leaning towards the CA because I think it will finish nicer, maybe cure harder (?). However, a luthier friend of mine says that the CA will become hot enough to burn the wood if I use a large quantity! And I really need good penetration; all my boards are about 1" thick.

So here are my questions:

1) Has anyone here tried applying pressure to force the CA into the pores?

2) Can I slow down the curing to allow the CA to penetrate better? Maybe in a cold ice bath? Maybe add acetone or other solvent to dilute the CA?

All of my pieces are fairly big and REALLY soft. There are even a couple of cracks in some pieces but the black ink lines look incredible. I have been trying to inform myself for over a year now since I really can't afford professional stabilizing (which all uses pressure chambers).

Thank you so much and sorry if this topic has been discussed to death! It's just that my pieces are pretty unique and I don't want to destroy them.

[fryovanni]

Post a picture of the wood. I have always resawn my spalt with no stabalizing. Then I stabalize after it is sawn. If the spalt is so soft it cannot be resaw, I am not sure I would use it (mind you I have resaw pretty soft spalt with no major problems). You always get a bit of "fallout" when sawing, but you resaw spalted wood a little thicker than it will be when you use it. That way you are able to clean up the surface a bit after it has been stabalized.

I have never used vac. and pressure to draw out air and help force CA or Epoxy deeper. Thinned slow set Epoxy, or thin CA has always been fine for me (if more was required I would probably opt. not to use that wood. I would hate to sneeze and lose a chunk of my guitars top).

CA does heat up when you use a lot of it. Vapors are nasty nasty stuff also. Use it outside preferably away from doors and windows, on a breezy day.

Peace,Rich

[Natman]

Hey Rich, thanks for your help! Here are pics of 4 pieces, the worst are the top one and the bottom, though it's hard to tell from the pics. The top one has a knot which is shrinking away (and the fungus/rot around it is advanced) the bottom one has worm holes. They vary in thickness from about 7/8" to the thickest at 2 1/4" (2nd down). So I should emphasize that the top & bottom ones couldn't be cut without falling apart! It's VERY soft and even the middle 2 pieces can be dented with my finger nail. It's hard to tell where the defects are in these pictures, they just blend into the pattern

Post a picture of the wood. I have always resawn my spalt with no stabalizing. Then I stabalize after it is sawn. If the spalt is so soft it cannot be resaw, I am not sure I would use it (mind you I have resaw pretty soft spalt with no major problems). You always get a bit of "fallout" when sawing, but you resaw spalted wood a little thicker than it will be when you use it. That way you are able to clean up the surface a bit after it has been stabalized.

I have never used vac. and pressure to draw out air and help force CA or Epoxy deeper. Thinned slow set Epoxy, or thin CA has always been fine for me (if more was required I would probably opt. not to use that wood. I would hate to sneeze and lose a chunk of my guitars top).

CA does heat up when you use a lot of it. Vapors are nasty nasty stuff also. Use it outside preferably away from doors and windows, on a breezy day.

Peace,Rich

Edited March 14, 2008 by Natman

[Vinny]

Hi Natman and welcome to the forums, its a great place. Nice pieces of spalt you have there. Rich (fryovanni) has done amazing work with spalted wood and is always willing to lend a hand here. Keep us posted on your build, there's an 'In Progess' section here you can log a diary of your build progress. Take care, -Vinny

[fryovanni]

I have cut wood that was probably very similar to the top and bottom. Big concern would be how dry they are, the softness of the wood is going to force you to cut thicker, and surface back to shape. If the wood is wet your going to have all sorts of trouble. You could try to use an acrylic stabalizing system (first using vaccume then pressure to get better penetration), this may or may not fully penetrate. If you make some bits much harder and some bits do not get the treatment, your going to wind up with craters and destructive cracking and warping. You will most likely spend more money stabalizing the wood than it is worth (if that is a consideration). With spalt like this I just cut thick and careful, making sure the wood is dry before cutting. Then I surface it with my drum sander to a fairly workable surface(the thickness you will get will depend on the wood). Then I stabalize with CA or Epoxy. Give it one more final surface sanding, and glue it down to a solid board(your body blank or whatever you are attaching it to). Then I do a final round of stabalizing, and fill. Be sure the wood is in fact dry though before you do this, absolutely do not attach a piece of spalted wood to a solid board if it is wet(it will crack like a son of a gun), solid wood that is a bit wet may store up a bit of tension from drying, spalt will just rip itself apart.

You can never tell how the yield will go with spalted wood and resawing. I try to consider that when purchasing spalted wood, hope for a great bit, but never count on getting much. I have had huge blocks of spalted maple that yeilded well in some parts, other areas were worthless rotten wood. If you buy boards such as these you should do pretty good, as long as they are dry.

P.S. Be sure your bandsaw is cutting dead on the money, and your blade is sharp. It will feel like the wood wants to glide through the cut, but slow yourself down a bit so the blade clears the wood and cuts smoothly. If you do this, you can cut some very weak material and it will stay together.

Peace,Rich