boundsteelblues Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 I have a 7/8" piece of tiger maple. I was thinking of gluing on a 1/8 piece or something else between it and the fretboard to take it to 1" total. THe idea being it would look like a binding besides giving me the usual 1". Any thoughts on this idea or wood to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 (edited) I have a 7/8" piece of tiger maple. I was thinking of gluing on a 1/8 piece or something else between it and the fretboard to take it to 1" total. THe idea being it would look like a binding besides giving me the usual 1". Any thoughts on this idea or wood to use? There's a lot to consider with that. 1) The truss rod placement--through the extra 1/8 splitting it down the middle, or under it? 2) It won't look like binding because the fingerboard will still be above it. 3) I would just go with the 7/8" thickness, as you'll be carving the neck blank down to 1/2" or so anyway (not counting fingerboard). If you want a thicker heel, laminate something there... If you want to do it, I'm sure you can figure out a way to make it work. Just letting you know the problems that popped into my head. Edited July 24, 2008 by Geo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 Echo the question, why a full 1" for the blank? If you wanted to use a lam of some sort for a specific reason okey dokey, but you don't need a blank to be a full 1" unless it has something to do with a crazy thick volute or stacked heel. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundsteelblues Posted July 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 What you say is good news. The instructions I had made me think 1" was necessary. I am doing a straight headstock with a stew-mac hot rod truss rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWishICouldShred Posted July 25, 2008 Report Share Posted July 25, 2008 Look into some of the info on doing a scarf joint for an angled headstock! It's not too difficult and you won't need a string tree, plus it looks classy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted July 25, 2008 Report Share Posted July 25, 2008 Look into some of the info on doing a scarf joint for an angled headstock! It's not too difficult and you won't need a string tree, plus it looks classy. Agreed. For any original design, I much prefer an angled head. For me, the flat headstock only works on Fenders or copies of Fenders. If you're doing a Strat-style neck, you may need 1", I don't know. In that case, you could just laminate wood to the underside of the heel and head, where it's needed, rather than thickening the whole blank and giving yourself an extra 1/8" to carve off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted July 25, 2008 Report Share Posted July 25, 2008 3/4" thick (if it's PERFECTLY straight and flat) is thick enough for almost any style of neck, from Fender (with glued on fingerboard) to scarfed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akvguitars Posted July 26, 2008 Report Share Posted July 26, 2008 You would need a 1" thick piece if you plan on doing a one piece neck: no separate fingerboard and skunk stripe in back for the truss rod. If you have a separate fingerboard, you only need 3/4 " for the neck (1/4" for the fingerboard). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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